skylinecouple

Do you have a decent intercooler ? If you don't you'll be sorry. But if you have then proceed forward. Set your gain on 10. Set your set gain to 8. Set gain should always be about 4lb below your target boost. So set gain is an actual boost number. It will delay the waste gate opening till that point. Where as gain is a reference number and just a number to reference a range for the boost controller to work in. Now set your boost. Turn the boost controller to 10 by simply turning the dial to 10. A quick drive in third gear and see what the boost is. Too low ? Turn it up to 15 then keep going till you achieve your desired boost. Once that is found you can play around with set gain by turning it up just a notch at a time to see if the boost will come on ealier but if it over boosts turn it back down again. There is no need to change Gain as 10 is pretty much perfect for most setups. Good luck. Don't go over 12lbs boost for standard turbo. In fact, if your intercooler is standard leave it at 10lbs.

Easiest way out is good 2nd hand engine. Just look for one out of an auto as these usually don't get thrashed but it must be ex-Japan. Little things like the condition of the rubber hoses and the nice gold nickel still on the engine bolts can sometimes tell more about the condition of an engine and it's age rather than the usual compression checks and hear running type of inspections. Though these still have to be done. Does the engine still have the original belts from Nissan and radiator hoses ? Don't buy what you can't see. And now is the time to put cams in and usual rocker stoppers while it's sitting on the floor or engine stand.

I guess it's like taking Viagra, the job will still get done, it just makes it easier and as above, bragging rights. You can really get up it.........you know, on the dyno.

I don't think there is a difference between 2.5ltr and 4.0ltr. it is about air. Remember the engine is an air pump, and a 4ltr making 270kws vs a 2.5ltr making 270kws flows similar air. It's called boost. Going back a while I was spending an hour a day looking at every exhaust shop from around the world and discovered at 270kws that was when you could or should step up to 3.5" but only if you were pretty sure you were going to make more power. So if 300kws is what your looking at then maybe 3.5 is where it's at. Mostly the dump of course but having felt the heat coming out the back of my exhaust on the dyno I have always thought the theory of cooling gases from engine to tailpipe just a little flawed. Ok, so the tailpipe isn't glowing red, but it's still bloody hot. And hot gases are expanded gases. So for fu*# sake will somebody do a back to back 3" vs 3.5" ? Don't change anything else, just the exhaust.

As above. Bear in mind there are really really thin gaskets and good thick turbo to dump gaskets. Pay a little extra and get the good ones.

Looks better than the ebay stuff but don't see a thermostat. Don't let those braided lines and AN fittings fool you, make enquiries to see if name brand fittings. Snapping a fitting won't be good. I had all my lines changed to good quality. You won't need a thermostat in Australia. Well, unless you go skiing.

My days of jiggly rides are over. Bought a Kia optima for business. I can't go back now. I have felt handling AND refinement all in one. Ok, so it isn't the razor sharp Skyline but damn, I'm going back to twin tube and softer springs. The BC V1's look good.

Was reading about them to. Seem good but only rebuild-able in the States. 50mm piston seems like overkill. Bilsteins are 44 I think and even with custom valving they are jiggly on bad roads. Spring rates would be the concern, I think they were 10 & 8kg weren't they ? Worth trying though.

In truth all braces will do something. I remember when I first put my suspension tower brace on and there was in fact a noticeable difference provided you adjust it so it is actually putting tension on the towers. Then of course the usual Bilstein, coils thing. Big difference. Then after a few track days took the car off the road and decided stuff it, I'll start at the heart of the problem. The subframe. Every bush changed. Some difference there. Every suspension arm, bush, tie rods, ball joints, there is nothing left on that car that's sloppy. I love it, precise, sharp steering. Out of all that was changed I would have to say the biggest difference was the suspension arm bushes. Polyurethane everywhere. Steering rack as well. My experience anyway. Out on the track the car is worlds apart from the standard suspension. A side note: don't mistake flex at speed with the tyres fully loaded under cornering as chassis flex if you have street tyres on it, it's just side wall flex. Those chassis braces you are looking at are seriously flawed but I suppose if all of them combined make a difference then go for it. Always remember the least flexing shape is a box. Putting chassis braces under the floor won't do much except give your suspension points less flex but your actual body will still be flexing. The proper way to do it would be to weld a 4 point cage in between front and back seats but only if welding the top of the cage to the top of the B-pillars. Now you have a far superior chassis to play with.

I'm with Ravi on this one. Should be belt. Undo lock nut, give one full turn to adjustment bolt, tighten lock nut.

Very nice. There is nothing better than a super clean look, no body kits.

Totally agree. I have zero faith in so called big work shops as I have said before. Start off with an Apexi PFC and learn to tune yourself. It doesn't cost much to hire a dyno or get somebody like Toshi to help you out and teach you. My 1st engine bent all the valves due to the tuner telling me five times how there was nothing wrong with it (years ago). The timing belt had lost all it's teeth, every valve was bent. Engine number two was the mechanic of a big work shop using the plastic heater hose as a lever to hold the turbo water feed in place at the back of the engine. Two days later I ran out of water and lifted the head in the middle of nowhere. Engine number three going in next week. My dirty thirty isn't finished yet so 2nd hand engine going in with cams. Learn to do everything yourself. YOU are the only one you can trust.

I have the black plastic CAS cover as my current engine was the last of the series 2. Would the C35 Laurel be the same, ie: hydraulic cams.

Doing very well. Really like seeing people do their own work. Make sure you really pay attention to rust proofing inside the guards when finished. Anywhere there is heat applied there will be a lack of factory protection. Are you going to use spacers on the wheels ?

It's the launches that will kill it. Modify it or find something tougher. I would speak to Jim Berry. At least his clutches can be driven on the street.

Hi Mark, regardless of which turbo you go with consider this, the moment you go away from a standard turbo there is going to be fabrication and parts galore. If you go with a turbo only slightly larger than the standard turbo you will be disappointed with the power. In a 1400kg car 260rwks is the least number I'd go for. I just can't see that turbo (3067) making the numbers. As somebody said before, go with the Hypergear turbo. I have the Garrett 3071 & .82 rear housing and have no lag. It isn't so much the turbine housing that creates lag but a combination of the compressor size and turbine size. My 3071 has the uncropped turbine wheel by the way. If it were me I would demand a minimum 260kws as previously stated due to the amount of work you have to fit a foreign turbo. So look for a turbo that will do the job without lag. There are many drift cars out there running 3076 .82 turbos by the way and don't seem to have lag issues. Its all in the tuning.

I'll agree with Rolls. Just too many failures out there. It seems there are not enough engine builders who really know their stuff. If they were held accountable for their work then perhaps things would change, but they aren't. Having said that, I am sure there are people out there who take their freshly "built " engine and proceed to keep it on the limiter till it pops then blame the builder. If we could count the engine failures on these forums it would only be a fraction of what the true numbers would be.

A lot of people have had this happen. In my case the odometer would stop working. Then I'd be sitting at the lights or service station after filling up and the odometer would start spinning and add the kilometers I'd travelled for the past week. Then the speedo its self would stop working intermittently. After a year the tacho would do the same. Took everything out, cleaned contacts of all connections, wiped over the rear with contact cleaner. It worked for a week. I then installed a Nismo dash cluster and been good ever since. Yes, your dash is on it's way out. $120-180 for a standard GTR dash cluster or $500 for a Nismo.

Courto, it may be possible your tuner is quite aware your injectors and AFM are limiting factors to the power you require. Knowing you have limited experience he just pegged the power at 330hp so you wouldn't blame him for the very quick death your car would have otherwise. Just for fun you could get 1,000 injectors, AFM & remove any restrictions in the exhaust, then go for it. If the turbo is crap you will soon find out (with a reputable tuner) so just flog it off to the bin and get a 3076 and enjoy. By the way, if your tuner cannot explain to you in plain English why your combination doesn't perform it is probably because, like most mechanics, that he failed English at school and quite possibly every other subject. Find a tuner who actually enjoys educating people and knows the value of good service regardless of your own skill level. That said, CRAP, that's a big turbo.

I for one would like to see some drawings. Better to give people an idea of what your mind is seeing. I remember a 4wd 32 highboy a few years ago that had 350 s/b and Blazer transaxle. Damn thing cut 11's without a worry and handled very, very well. By the way, a big single would tidy up the engine bay area considerably. I had one each of a 55, 56 and 57 Chevy so I am wondering if this is a racing style your building or classic or hotrod.

Well, I can confirm the Nismo dash into GTST R33 absolutely works. Very happy. Time consuming putting it in but mostly because I cleaned and polished as I went. Only annoying thing is the numbers on the speedo are so small. I'll get used to it though. Something tells me I may never see the needle at full speed. And the glass from the GTST is the same as the GTR. For those who have done this before obviously you know it works, this is just to let others know, thanks.

Interesting reading. The HKS 2835 seems to be oh so similar to the GT3071. Mine has the .82 housing and non-cropped exhaust wheel. Response is a little slower than the old GCG hi-flow but the midrange is just brilliant. In reality though, boost is instant if you are over 3,000rpm. If you are under 2,700 it will take a quarter of a second to build boost. Fuel economy is very good at 420-450 around town and 550 on a trip. On off transitions are instant as I said, above 3,000rpm. Anybody who does sporty type driving under 3,000rpm is clearly a lover of Barby dolls and wears high heels around the house when nobody is looking. The only down side to it is it loses puff (at least on the dyno) after 5,500rpm. In reality though you can't feel it. It just seems to keep pulling. Hard to describe but for instance, 2nd gear in traffic and crawling along at 2,300rpm. Dickhead in front of you is crawling along at 40kph. You stand on it and within half a second your smoking the rears then sideways in 3rd. Yeah, I guess that's the best way to describe it.

So what are the standard Nissan rings made out of ? If they are good enough for the power some motors are producing then perhaps standard thickness rings and end gaps are whats required. Just need a piston to fit. On that note, what is Nismo using ? I'll wager thicker rings at 1.5mm and standard end gaps. This by the way is one of the best threads going. Some good info here. Venting and not head drain is important in a high horsepower application but I do agree with some that we are making some fundamental mistakes in material selection when assembling our engines. There is some great info in drag racing forums on this very subject. Though to be fair a 2,000hp engine may not necessarily be too worried about the extra drag of a thicker ring.

Thanks Ravi, it's been posted so should be here soon. The one I have now has done 345,000k's, maybe that's why it,s playing up. As a side note, I was just discussing with a friend how in 12 years of ownership I have never blown a single bulb anywhere in the car, amazing. Let me know what you want for the GTR glass and I may buy it just in case.

Comes down to the bumper. There are so many different types. Mine is standard so had to make a custom undertray otherwise I would have just bought a carbon one for a GTR. If you have the M-spec front bar then perhaps, being lower, it may fit. Just make one. One hour tops.