skylinecouple

Absolutely, the faster the air travels through the cooler the less time the cooler has to actually cool it down. The trust cooler of the dimensions given is probably a slightly better bet for flow though. Cooling I would have to say would be near on identical. What size is yours Nismoid ? Have you been tempted to try the 100mm ?

Simple, look inside and see for yourself which has bigger/ more tubes. You hear all sorts of opinions about dispelling heat or cooling properties of the equalibrium of the fandangle but really, just look inside. If flow is what your after then you need more tubes of the same size or larger tubes with same amount of them or more. This is also where the thicker verses thin debate comes in because you may not get enough air flow to the radiator. if you go with say, a 100mm thick core. Having said that I haven't heard of too many people overheating with thick cores. At that power level what you have is good with the Trust I am sure, but you really won't know till you try so do it, put it on and tune it. Otherwise 6mths down the track you'll still be wandering.

Clean AFM, good start, definately. Could be water temp sensor but I would think that would only keep it in cold start longer. Check all your earths as fuel pump, coils are severely affected by bad earth. Couldn't be fuel filter blocked as it would affect overall performance. Hmmmmmm........

Need more info. Car type ? Doe it have a computer ? What plugs are you using ? Have you reset the standard computer if thats what your running ?

And on that note about wording, how hard can it be for a workshop to actually bolt the damn turbo on a particuar car THEN sell everything they used to make it work. Do NOT call it a kit if it isn't, that's false advertising. A kit is something you get from HKS vs our Australian idea of a kit which is any old turbo with something that might be the right oil and water lines, no dump, no inlet pipe, nothing. And then said work shops winge about customers being too fussy. CRAP, make something that works or advertise it as a partial kit or a kit that we think might work, oh, I know "buy our kit, we think it might work, if your lucky." Honestly guys, just do it yourselves, yes it takes longer but it is done right and you know what your spending your money on.

A few weeks ago I had ignition break down on boost and cleaned/inspected all the coils to find no arcing or cracking signs anywhere. These were the original 265,000k coils the car came with. Looked into my little bag of goodies under the stairs and lo and behold,the genuine 32,000k coils I had from my engine conversion when I put the last of the series 2 engines in it. These are literaly new with the silicone type goo they cover them in from the factory still present. So put them in and instantly noticed the difference. Idle was smoother, pickup was faster and boost is clean till the cutout at 7,300rpm. I don't know how long the old coils were slowly losing it but you can't beat brand new coils. Have to agree with Nismoid on this one, go with the Japs and for me, I see no need to deviate from the standard coils. Though having said that and wanting to try some sort of ignition boost just to satisfy my curiosity, I may go HKS. Having bought the car with 22,000 original k's in 2ooo I know it backwards and should be able to feel any difference.

As Disco states, not alot of research going on, in this particular case anyway. Look, we all make mistakes, this seems to be one of them. Having said that, it really isn't a bad thing. These turbos will go on to give you a real kick in the pants at almost any revs above 2,700rpm. I bought my 3071 with the real 60mm turbine wheel and Garrett housing because I simply had enough of turbine restriction due to small turbine housings. Mine is the .82. Instant power anytime and the only thing holding it back is cams or a 3.5" exhaust or both. This sucker just loves to rev. These turbos are real street turbos and can be exellent for scaring the pants off modified XR6T drivers. It's all about what your after, less lag means less power, more lag will give you the power but you have to pick your moments and be prepared for them. IE: right gear, right revs or say goodbye to that taxi on LPG. I for one have wanted to step up to a 3076 but how fast do you want to go ? What we have with the 3071 is the perfect street turbo, just wind the boost up and get that 260kws, you know you want to.

Press and hold the mode button I think from memory for 2 sec, that will turn it back on. I would go out and do it now but too lazy.

Just be aware that adjustments should only be done if the tune needs it. Just leave the over 80deg at 1.00 in the left and right column. It would have to be a really hot day and you would have to be very fussy to want to change that. The next temp down which apparently is 60deg should also be 1.00 or at most 1.003 in the left column. The right column is for high load and will almost definately not need any change. If you really know your car then you will feel the difference even if you adjust by .010. Just never use someone elses tune as a guide, make a small adjustment and see how it goes. Start at say, temp 10+ when you start it in the morning and gradually trim this setting till the car starts to feel doey when you drive off. You will gradually get better fuel economy and if need be add 1 or 2 richer to get it perfect. Move to the next one above and start the process again. I have my car running almost the same first thing in the morning as when warm. Remember, left column light load so thats where you need to tune the most unless you thrash your car when cold.

Just leave the over 80deg at 1.00 on low load and 1.00 on high load which is the left and right columns. For the next lowest temp which is over60deg I think, leave it also at 1.00 left column and 1.00 right column. You will save a lot of fuel and your car will run cleaner as a result. After that though, you will have to add a little fuel for best results. Took me around 9mths to slowly get it right. I get 450k's on average around town and 450 to 620 on long trips. You also need to look at accell pump and drastically reduce the numbers for best results.

Take it back to Godzilla, if it is knocking then I'm sure he would not want to know he destroyed your engine.

One of the first changes I made to my 33 and noticed the difference straight away. Car was more responsive on turn in at normal road speeds let alone track. Get one and you will see.

The wife's 34 does the same thing. We turn it off every time we drive. The other thing it does is it dies around slow corners when fuel is low. Since I hardly ever drive it I have'nt really had a good look at it. Am curious though. I could be doing 100k's in a straight line and light starts flashing then cuts power, dangerous if overtaking. There is no particular circumstance that instigates it, just happens anytime.

I know it's been said before but thank you Paul for the info you have gathered here. I have seen your advice floating around from here to England, Russia, Canada, Hawaii and Trinidad of all places. No thread in the entire forum has travelled so far and been read by so many. Good on you.

Once you have it tuned with the correct AFR's then you can go ahead and tune the timing for a best result. There is no way the tuner is going to put in hours of work to tune the ignition from idle to redline, he'll just make it safe from boost transition to the red.

I got wood just thinking about how this thing will go. Hope you are into training your neck as the next morning will hurt like a bitch with the G's it will pull. In fact, I'll go out on a limb here and say the car may hurt you more than you can hurt it.

Hey, would like to jump in here. How much have you added to your numbers ? I am at 46 in the LO1 and 2 at No7 throttle area and not getting more than 3-4 knock. How hi can this keep going before it knocks at say ten and like you said, every engine is different. Have posted in Paul's PFC thread but I guess there aren't too many people tuning their own cars.

OK, currently at LO1-No7 and up to 46. LO2-7 also 46, and still no more than 3 knock. Kept it in that zone and just throttling enough to keep it there and no knock to worry about. Have to tell you though, what a transformation. Instant throttle response. Feels like a friends Honda Integra. Interestingly, vacuum on my trusty Profec B has dropped from 98 on idle to 88, is this normal with 20 in the cells around idle ? I am barely touching the accelerator and it will rev to 3,000rpm no problem.

Ok, I'm looking at my ignition values and at load 3, revs 3 am getting up to 28 ignition value and only 6-7 knock. Seems like a lot of timing but I have added 3-4 deg. to most of the cells so far to get that 6-7 knock. I think it is probably about time I look at a few other peoples timing in that 7x7 area and compare. Would it be possible for some of you to draw up a grid and plot your cell values ? I'll do mine as I work my way through it and see what I end up with. The car has been tuned by Yavuz @ Unigroup and Hitman so am not worried about fuel at this stage. Have fixed the starting problem with an increase from 26 to 31 in "cranking" at the +10 range. Seem to be getting more soot spots on the rear bumper though so am wandering if the extra timing is somehow dislodging carbon or fuel deposits from the engine itself or exhaust.

Thanks Dale, I really want to nail this tune. Honestly, I thought all this time it was running great till I saw there was zero knock anywhere under 3,000rpm. I have a highest reading of 9 knock revving to 7,000rpm. That;s disgusting. I'm hoping when I get to the higher revs with more timing it may cure the dreaded black smoke syndrome. I doubt it but there is always hope. But is accessing the cranking zone and reducing the injectors from say, 26ms to 18ms the right way to lean out the mixture during cold start? Should I be doing it in the water temp correction area instead ?

I have posted in the Power FC forum but hoping someone can help me here. So far I have added timing to most of the cells in the 7x7 range and have to say it has transformed the way the car drives. Now I have reduced the values for cold starting in "cranking" of the setting mode and this has made a small difference. Starts a little easier but more importantly so much crisper when warming up. Is this the way to go ? Or should I trim in water correction ? Also, when I accelerate hard at any revs I get a lot of unburned fuel like I mean seriously a big cloud of black smoke. My two favorite tuners reckon it is the Nismo injectors but I strongly suspect "accel" pump needs trimming but as there are two columns I don't know where to start. Anybody help ?

Ok, and cold start adjustment ?

Can anybody tell me if I am going about leaning off the cold start on my PFC the right way ? I go to settings, cranking, then in the +10C range I have reduced it from 26ms to 19ms and this seems to have helped as it starts easier but is this correct ? I have also trimmed the other ranges and the car seems to be smoother while warming up. Would I be better off changing the water correction ? Also, what timing are RB25's achieving in the 7 x 7 range before knock ? I have a knock level of 3 in the 3 x 3 range and car does take off better but is that what I aim for then try for more knock higher in the rev range ? Or is 10 or 15 better right from idle ? I just love this tuning thing, though won't be touching the fuel till I get a wide band.

Check: IAC or AAC ( by that I mean clean it out) couple of bolts and some time with petrol or carby cleaner. AFM. Clean with electrical cleaning spray. I think around $10 so just spray it into the AFM, no need to remove. If you have a BOV other than standard or GTR then remove it. Drive the car and see if it does it when you back off in gear then put it in neutral or if you are cruising along and suddenly push the clutch in. Won't be the coils as they would be acting up under boost before they played up at idle. Always start with the simplest things first.

I command an update with photos. This is not a request.