skylinecouple

I know it's missing the window glass but I ordered it anyway. Hope I can get a replacement or my GTST glass fits. Thanks anyway.

All good, Peter said he'll make it up to me. If your tacho is all over the place then pay attention to your speedo and see if it jumps 10 kays and back again. Annoying.

Why buy one when an aluminum supplier will give you a cutoff for nothing or close to it. Make a cardboard template, poke holes through where bolts go and it's done. If it's show your after then get a $10 buffing wheel and use your drill to polish. And if somebody thinks this is going to come lose and fly off taking someone's head with it that just won't happen. Bolts and lock-tight.

Ok, so my tacho and speedo are giving me the Sh#ts. Tacho is jumping all over the place then not working then ok. Had enough. The Nismo dash clusters on E-bay are going for $780-800 so can I put a GTR dash into a GTST ? They say in their advertising you can but excuse me for being sceptical. After all, E-bay wouldn't lie. Or should I just replace the tacho with a brand new stocker ? If the tacho and speedo are the same design perhaps I could just throw away the dash and just use the tacho & speedo as a simple replacement. Anybody done this ?

How lucky are you. I just spent way too much getting mine pulled out of my GTST33 due to no time for me to do it. Lost the car for a week. Guess what, lasted two days before it stuffed up again. Then it was normal, then it wasn't. At the moment it is normal but it will happen again by tomorrow. Advanced Automotive Instruments is in Bankstown I think, give them a call. That's who I made the original inquiry to. I got Advan Performance to do mine but don't know who they used. They did take it to an instrument repairer though so might have been them. So trying to fix it is a waste of time is what I'm saying. Get a new one. Does your speedo jump a little ?

I made one some time ago which covers from front leading edge of the bumper to the subframe and out the sides to suspension arms. Much less wind noise on the Highway. Cooling is better when working the car hard up mountains. Less drag based on even the most basic of aerodynamics. For me it was the improvement in noise.

Now THAT makes sense. Can anybody tell me, if I go to the Neo, would my current Apexi run it as I currently have the series 2 motor with the slightly different wiring to the series 1. (cam key is different also) and has the black plastic CAS cover. Although, if I save on the motor rebuild I would go with a new Vipec or similar anyway. That duel fuel idea has been on my mind for some time. Also, do I absolutely need much larger injectors ? To do a nice safe 300-320kws would 740's get me there on ethanol ?

The extra weight of the new clutch action, not the pressure plate itself, may have cracked the nylon bushes where the return spring is mounted in the clutch frame. I replaced these at 280,000k. No more clicking.

Will you guys stop it ? Your confusing me. Stuff it, I'm going V8................Just kidding. But seriously, if I thought for one second it would be an easy job I wouldn't hesitate for a second.

Yes I do Dave, I have been meaning to wave to you every time I see your car but I'm usually on the car phone or late for a meeting. ( I build houses). You have the very clean 33 though have only seen you several times. My other car is a 34 2door. Completely stock, very quiet and auto for getting from A to B. Every pore in my body says ring Lewis Engines and send them all my good stuff for a 2530 build but just lately I've had second thoughts. I have made contact with a local engineer but he hasn't done one yet and will get back to me in regards to legalities. If I get the all clear then I'll go for it. As an aside question, can anybody tell me the biggest turbo for a 25/30 in a low mount position, not hitting the frame rails, wiring, brake lines or any other problems. Just the biggest bastard turbo I can fit. I was thinking 3076 and 1.06 exhaust with internal waste gate.

I kind of knew some would go with the 30 but I work seven days a week and just dont have the time like I used to. When I had 2 full days off a week I did most of the previous work myself but slowly that time has been taken away from me. If I could get an engineers promise that it is a straight forward swap then I'd definately go for it. When I was younger I would have just gone for it, now of course, I am older and wiser. I definately dont want to go stock 25, I want 300kws all day every day. I have tried to create a sort of sleeper so far with the 4 door as it looks fairly standard. I also have the 30 block sitting there doing nothing. What to do. I guess the 25 with cams and forged with attention to assembly and 3076 in standard position is a far better bet, though I want 256 inlet and 264 exhaust cams to try to milk it as best I can. There, I've answered my own question. Water methanol injection would also be on the cards.

Well, after 345,000kms my old girl has shown signs of needing a new heart. So, do I go for the 25/30 and deal with the legalities of a larger engine including possibly getting an emissions and engineering check or go with a 25 and usual forged goodies. The dirty 30 is going to need mods to get under the bonnet and slight mods to the exhaust at the new height. It will easily go 350kws on standard rods so money saved there. It's just that all the hassle of getting it legal is just too much trouble with my time frames. The forged 25 with oil control will get me to 300kws but will have to work hard to do it but it really is just a straight swap plus the engine I will build is the original engine that broke a timing belt at 165,000k so that would make it just a blue slip for rego. What do I do ?

Anybody that can train Labradors to port heads is good enough for me.

Good question. In fact it's these little details which can be the difference between a successful build or not. I'm watching.

I guess you would have to ask yourself, if I am going to spend $10-20,000 on my gtst what would happen if I crashed it at the track or somebody ran into me. Ok, so now ask how you would feel if you just spent twice that on your gtr. Like alot of people find out sooner or later is, it's all fun and games till someone loses an eye.

And another one bites the dust, and another one bites the dust hey hey. A very clean car for it's age, not now though.........no, not now. And a four door to. 10 years from now it would have been worth a bit. Oh well, makes mine more collectable.

The evidence is there. Sometimes the answer is so simple you get confused thinking about it. I'll bet if you go back to the same dyno that showed a low figure and had someone that knows how to set it up correctly actually using it the results would be a whole lot better.

But is this forum willing to have another 19 year old make it harder for everybody else because you want to drive on the chassis rails. Always funny when another Skyline is written off because they were flying around a corner and hit a dip with no suspension travel. Backwards into a tree usually.

Just so happens I have the Nitto Invo on the front and Yokohama Ao46 on the rear. Fantastic combination. Do not underestimate the Nitti Invo as a sport tyre. Amazing grip. I have tried almost every tyre you can think of with 325,000k's on my car and this is a great combo. Nitto is superb in the rain and excellent in the dry. It has a 260 tread rating on the inside and 160 on the outside. For the grip they have lasted around 20,000k's and still good. The rear Yoko's are still in great condition and offer some of the best straight line grip around. I have found alot of tyres are ok around corners but seem slack in a straight line or need warming to perform. Not these tyres. The last 3 sets of tyres I've had were Falken 615 only because I got them cheap, sadly they are only good when warm. In every day traffic they can be quite dangerous. Sadder still is the 10,000k's I was getting out of them, no thanks.

Hi Chris, just wanted to thank you for the control arms. Also for waiting for me, bloody traffic. For anybody interested the car has been hit dead on up the rear. Panel damage only so rear suspension hasn't been touched. Seats looked very clean.

Just because someone snapped the drive shafts from the States doesn't mean you will. They seem to be reasonably priced. Go for it. How old were your drive shafts by the way ? Original ?

Your assuming they actually took .005 off. Personal experience and the experience of way too many people on these forums is, you have one guy doing the machining, one guy building the engine and yet another tuning. Who shaved too much off ? Who tuned it wrong ? Who put the engine together wrong ? No one ownes up to mistakes and yet again the poor old owner bares the brunt of school drop outs who casually wander through tech and get a peice of paper saying they are now a qualified mechanics. Apologies to those mechanics who actually give a sh#t. I guess the best way to take the car to the next level is to get one shop to do everything, let them try to blame someone else then. And no, I am not saying this shop is blaming someone else, I am being general in my comments. But I am sure this particular case will turn out just fine.

Let them check the fuel 1st then go from there. Did they mention the power it was making ? If around 270-280 at 18lbs it would seem about right. But if all goes according to plan there should be 290rwkws there. If the head was shaved I hope you used a 1.2 0r 1.6mm head gasket.

Good on you Jez for looking after it the way you do. I just know when your older and these cars are no longer as common on our roads that it will be worth some money for it's condition. But Jez, the wheels, get some dish, same colour, just more dish.

You only need a catch can if the motor is unhealthy. Just drill the appropriate sized hole into the intake and weld some pipe onto it then attach the breather pipe to it. All legal. Alternatively, cut a section of alloy pipe into the original rubber intake and away you go. You just have to remove the long and therefore softest section of the intake. Or yet again contact the many sponsors on Skylines Australia and get a new silicon intake. Just do one change at a time and let us know how you go. Oh, and check all your earths just incase the car has been in an accident some time and they bolted the earth back up without scraping the paint away or left them loose.