nisskid

mm pricey, could have got 255/40's for $584 from Option http://www.option1garage.com.au/NewTyres.htm

pillow ball's are used with cars that have macpherson strut at the front to allow for turning, they are not in the rear of a skyline. knocking is probably worn bushes, but could be worn dampers.

do they run fluid level sensors in their reservoirs?

yeh i thought it still did as it simply doubled as a hicas/steering fluid warning. im probably wrong, i dont like to meddle in r33 things usually lol do r33's have a separate warning light for the steering fluid sensor?

fluid level? lol

thats kind of ridiculous, have u seen the pricing or selection for 265's in 17"? ud be much better of spending the same $$ on a better quality 255.

yeh this is an email i got back from an engineer regarding an engineer's certificate for HICAS lock bar (only legal way to do it in SA) so the main issue there was the argument that regardless of how safe the "lock" was, not having the HICAS working was the issue. which is ridiculous seeing as some come out from factory without HICAS. i figured the best way to visually demonstrate this was to put a subframe from a non-hicas model into my car haha my solution which allowed me to keep the stock adjustable toe rods:

haha good point

just more suitable, closer rolling diametre, the 245/45 is just too much profile for a 17" for street tyres on a skyline, and yes they will look better as well. but he's^^ right too, 235/45 is the cheapest option if u are willing to go to the 235, for the price u are able to get 235/45's at, u would be better spending the same amount on a 235/45 and getting a better tyre, as on a 245/45-40 and getting a lesser tyre. i just wouldnt really bother with the 245, if u wanna go a bit wider, go to the 255/40.

lol, cant imagine it working here in sa

go for 245/40s if u can.

which way did u hit it with a hammer? hit it with a metal hammer and piece of wood, hit on all directions, around, in, out everything u can think of.

yes, but 255 is as big as i would go. people should remember that balance is key, going for ridiculous sizes on the rear is useless for circuit if u cant get anything close to that on the front. most gts-t's arent running nearly enough power to justify a huge tyre width stagger from front to rear, most do best with a close to neutral balance due to their inherent understeer issues. and if ur talking gtr, well even moreso.

why would u pay more for shit handling then? they are too big for those rims and will just flop around on the rim giving poor feel, response and in a lot of cases mid-corner grip depending on how much the tyre distorts.

cheaper in most cases to buy a good condition 2nd hand upright the ball joint is a bitch to get out, generally have to pull the uprights out to get them into the press anyway.

i wouldnt. seems pretty useless tbh, will feel like shit around corners, and if u just wanted straight line traction go 16's

just dont buy an aluminium one lol i had one in my skid car over in J-land and it ended up looking like a banana. anything steel will be fine, but remember they are illegal. if u want a legal solution (not legal but not pickable by inspectors) buy some hicas lock washers, or better yet measure what u need, and buy some washers the right size from ur hardware. the best legal option is to go non-hicas subframe completely.

the off the shelf bilsteins and kingies are good if u want something street friendly that ur never going to touch again. personally i think they are just too soft to get close to the cars limits for any real hard driving though.

how are mac struts not coilovers? lol

you do realise there is a difference between a cheap tyre and a dodgey tyre right? a cheap tyre under-performs, a dodgey tyre blows out and sends someone into a tree at 100k's an hour. kinda like the difference between a korean car and a chinese car. many big tyre companies have different brands in their own company for marketing reasons, for example admiral tyres and kuhmo, they are targeted at people who dont care about performance or road comfort etc, but these tyres are still safe structurally and have to maintain their safety as although admiral takes the brunt of the low end cheap tyres reputation to the average consumer, when it's structural failures that happen, it's kuhmo who have to answer. that aside i still not convinced gislaved are all cheap and nasty tyres let alone dodgey, i think they are just a subsidiary for conti who already have an established brand in the sweden market i wouldnt rule out the shop's part in this, tyre shops can be farkin dodgey, believe me.

afaik the reason they dont put their name on it is gislaved is an established name in sweden, no point calling them contis. also whats wrong with the polo? im trying to understand how that example is the slightest bit relevant

different tyres, different pressure, different conditions, i can tell u right now, it aint the nitrogen lol

they are owned by continental, doesnt get that much bigger when it comes to tyre brand names, and sweden arent exactly know for low quality, which makes me think there's more to it.

have u ever run on them flat before?