nisskid

my honest opinion, if its a look thing, push the wheels out with spacers, then stretch some tyres over them, and camber the bitch with some adj uppers. personally i probably wouldnt have an issue with taking that much out of a UCA, especially if u reinforce it in other ways. those front UCA's are f**king tough, the LCA, cross member, castor rods/bracket, tie rods, will all generally break before ur UCA's

it wont disable the adjustment of toe rods, only if u go a non-hicas subframe and use stock non-hicas toe arms.

yeh, definitely worth using in mac strut coilovers and control arms, unfortunately they wear quite quickly.

ok his question has been answered so all good

??? i have nothing more to add, if you knew it was for macpherson strut then why did u post it up?

spring rate/damping/arb's should all be considered into the roll reduction equation, too much arb will cause inside wheel lift, too much spring rate with cause harshness and lack of contact with the road over bumps. how does the balance of your car feel? in whiteline you have the option of 20-22mm sway bars at the rear, 24-27mm. with your current setup id probably just go with the 24/20 adjustable setup, unless your car feel particularly oversteery or understeery?

are u sure? afaik the only adr approved steering wheels are momo and issotta, both expensive.

my thoughts:

can you explain to me 2 things. 1: how you figure you're going to be able to adjust camber via the coilovers, with multi-link suspension. 2: how pillow balls are going to increase steering response when the coilover moves on 1 axis only (up and down) and the steering pivot point is in the upper control arm? i'll answer it for you, those specs/features are for macpherson strut type suspension. r32 and on skylines do not use strut type suspension.

i think id rather spend more on suspension.

nissan boss kits are universal so id imagine most non-ab nissan wheels will fit the splines, possibly with modification to the surround though.

thats a big call.

what car and why?

id imagine they extrude from the mounting surface 25mm like other nissans. just a guess though as ive never measured r34 ones. and u probably know already but nissan thread is 1.25

nice thread, ive been thinking this section needs a compatibility thread for a while now, not just coilovers either. should sticky it

u need to find out exactly where the squeak is coming from, which component in the coilovers are squeaking. if its coming from the damper internally there's not much u can do but rebuild them

BC are the rage atm, and they do have a bit more merit than the other cheap brands, but ur buying cheap gear either way and there is no actual proof they're any better, just based on their origins more than anything.

the mechanics you use are either idiots or think you are an idiot lol, they are dampers, coils, coil seats and mounts, no strut inserts as they are not for strut type suspension, anyway assuming u meant dampers there. try fulcrum, they are the tein dealers so if ur after a tein product they are ur best bet.

get under, check for degradation in the rubber, check for unusual amounts of play etc

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/testDisplay.jsp?ttid=118 for a street tyre i dont think u can go past the direzza star specs, plays with the big boys, for not much more $$ than the KU36's. tirerack can send them from the states for ya.

could be alignment out, either way rip the hicas out and be done with it

what is it with people thinking skylines use pillowball's in their suspension today? and they dont use struts either lol have u ever seen the suspension ur talking about? lol are we talking stock top hats here? can u make something up urself? go to ur nearest rubber store and get a cut that u need and shove it in.

id like to know what u have to compare them with and what actual proof u have to back up those claims, as im yet to see anything but junk come out of pedders

what are N1 coilovers? i can think of a few brands that have N1 models if thats what u mean?