nisskid

that's fair enough, just trying to show what good quality wheels can take, people need to understand the difference between low and high quality wheels, and understand the difference in terms of real life examples.

it's just you talk about ROTA's trying to say they have taken a beating, so it's understandable that they might break, i'm saying i wouldnt buy wheels for my car where it became understandable to see cracks in them after simply some hard driving over 6 months or a year or whatever it was, buy wheels where ur confident in them, where you expect them to not crack just from a bit of hard track use.

im sure you could find something, in fact im positive ive seen some. regardless, i have explained how this works earlier in the thread, and why what u see on the net is only a fraction of what is actually there. also where the hell did my original posts go?

i know at least a few of the examples are from regular track use, 1 was a high powered FWD, cant remember the rest, it's been a long time, but they werent from accidents or anything like that. good rims are designed to take punishment though, how many R32 GTR wheels do you see getting around on track cars still to this day? they are what over 20 years old? how about R33 GTR wheels, i can personally testify to their strength, i have had about 4-5 different sets of 33 GTR wheels, my latest pair took a direct hit, at about 40k's over a open Japanese gutter (a square concrete channel, about 1.5ft across, 1 meter deep), cant think of many harder hits possible, both wheels stood up, 1 was completely fine, 1 came away with a small dent. but you're right, you have pushed them past their intended purpose, doing track on a R35 GTR, that's why you buy proper wheels that are designed to do that. pic of the incident:

like i said from the start, ROTA's are notorious for faults from the factory, but that only a fraction of the story, they are weak cast wheels, regardless of faults, they are weak and over time they are going to fatigue, assuming they dont break from a half decent impact first. also i appreciate you posting your findings, i can understand it wouldnt have been easy for the "told you so" bs, but these things need to be reported as too often they arent. people need to know this stuff before they go buying it for themselves.

lol its all good, just looks bad

yerp

lol yeh, just been busy over in J-land, not much internet time.

off the top of my head: clearance availability of rims availability of tyres handling cosmetics

26 is for sale, but pretty sure it's already sold with the turbo and everything, powerFC will be up for grabs tho.

ALL PRICES ARE AS PAIRS 15" 2x 195/50 - Bridgestone Turanza ER30 - 50-60% tread - $60 2x 195/50 - Bridgestone/Bob Jane (mismatched pair) - 60% tread - $70 2x 195/55 - Advan/Regal (mismatched pair) - 70% tread - $70 16" 2x 205/55 - Fullrun HP199 - 50-60% tread - $70 2x 205/55 - Continental ContactSport - 50-60% tread - $70 2x 205/55 - GoodYear (mismatched pair) - 60% tread - $60 17" 5x 215/45 - Bridgestone Potenza RE050A - 50-70% tread - $60-90 2x 215/45 - Toyo (mismatched pair) - 60% tread - $70 2x 215/45 - Goodyear/Michelin (mismatched pair) - 70-80% tread - $90 2x 225/45 - Pirelli/Goodyear F1 (mismatched pair) - 60% tread - $80 2x 225/45 - Continental ContiSportContact (mismatched pair) - 50-70% tread - $60 2x 235/45 - BlueStreak/Achilles (mismatched pair) - 60-70% tread - $80 18" 2x 235/40 - Bridgestone/Kuhmo (mismatched pair) - 60-70% tread - $90 2x 245/40 - Nankang NS-II - 60% tread - $90 2x 245/40 - Dunlop SP Sport 9000 - 60-70% tread - $110 2x 245/40 - Dunlop/Maxxis (mismatched pair) - 80% tread - $120 Located near Mitcham in SA

ALL PRICES ARE AS PAIRS 15" 2x 195/50 - Bridgestone Turanza ER30 - 50-60% tread - $60 2x 195/50 - Bridgestone/Bob Jane (mismatched pair) - 60% tread - $70 2x 195/55 - Advan/Regal (mismatched pair) - 70% tread - $70 16" 2x 205/55 - Fullrun HP199 - 50-60% tread - $70 2x 205/55 - Continental ContactSport - 50-60% tread - $70 2x 205/55 - GoodYear (mismatched pair) - 60% tread - $60 17" 5x 215/45 - Bridgestone Potenza RE050A - 50-70% tread - $60-90 2x 215/45 - Toyo (mismatched pair) - 60% tread - $70 2x 215/45 - Goodyear/Michelin (mismatched pair) - 70-80% tread - $90 2x 225/45 - Pirelli/Goodyear F1 (mismatched pair) - 60% tread - $80 2x 225/45 - Continental ContiSportContact (mismatched pair) - 50-70% tread - $60 2x 235/45 - BlueStreak/Achilles (mismatched pair) - 60-70% tread - $80 18" 2x 235/40 - Bridgestone/Kuhmo (mismatched pair) - 60-70% tread - $90 2x 245/40 - Nankang NS-II - 60% tread - $90 2x 245/40 - Dunlop SP Sport 9000 - 60-70% tread - $110 2x 245/40 - Dunlop/Maxxis (mismatched pair) - 80% tread - $120

pretty much, all the D1 drivers have a missile to f**k around in, basically its to just push the limits, and to f**k around with mates n shit just on each others doors the whole way down a run, tapping each other etc etc doing stuff that u cant afford to do in pretty cars

bingo! haha was done over about 4 full days total 3 half day practices, G1 GP, matsuri. all at ebisu on assorted courses lol

before: after:

TYRES 235/45 R17 Neuton NT-5000 BRAND NEW!! $220 for the pair PM me, dont reply here or sms me (dont come here much anymore, and phone doesnt work atm)

gave it a basic settings change last night, car is now running fine (albeit with less power and tonnes of lag) for anyone interested, these were the settings i was given: Seq.turbo cont ... default = on ..change to OFF Inj/AirF Warn. ...default =on...change to OFF Knock Warning ... Default on .....Leave ON O2 F/B control (O2 sensors) ..Default =on...Change Both to OFF Idle-IG Cntrl....(O2 Regulation) Default =on.......Change to OFF then turn my injectors (beleived to be 700cc) down to 75% from the factory 100%. for some reason the first setting (seq turbo) wasnt there, instead the boost kit option was there. i did everything by the notes, and left the boost kit on just to see, got a huge fuel cut, and sent the knock to 30. turned the boost kit off, and it seems to have disappeared.

BTW here are the mods: RB26 Trust T78-33D PowerFC w/Commander HKS EVC5 Trust Manifold Trust External Gate Tomei Type-R Poncam SARD Injectors Adjustable type fuel regulator HKS Pod Filters Z32 twin AFM's Trust Intercooler Trust Oil Cooler 3-Layer Copper Radiator Low temperature Thermostat Turbo Back Exhaust

im not sure, it has a setting for boost control i think, but i have a HKS EVC as well, so not sure there.

ok, so some news. fuel pump went back in tonight, fuel tank was still pretty much where it was a few days ago, so ruling out a fuel tank leak (probably) took it for a drive, same hesitation. had a search through the commander, found a AF setting, was set on R33 GTR (what looks to be the default). changed it to Z32 AFM (im running twin Z32's atm) and the hesitation stopped. the car seemed to be running ok, except when i got to some hills and put my foot down a bit. car runs like dogs balls. so thinking it's definitely been reset, and running a shitty default map. now, a few things, these are the max's i got, from putting my foot down once: now as u can see, something's wrong, i was barely getting 75% inj duty before when running bout .9 bar, on redline, now im pretty much maxing injectors out with bugger all rpm, or boost. i ran a sensor check, and this is what i came up with. the thing that caught my eye was the low voltage of the 2nd 02 sensor, i was thinking before, either it could be buggered, or im wondering if with the big single setup, they ditch one of the 02 sensors, then tell the powerFC this, and obviously the FC going back to default, it would be expecting 2. i dunno, just a thought. version of PFC is:

champ mate, will check tonight.

would that happen overnight though? it was running fine one day, smooth all the way to redline, albeit a hunting idle. then next day i go to turn the car on it's non-stop hesitating. it's like the issue manifested between the car dying the night before (ran out of petrol), me putting 10ltrs of fuel in from a jerry can, and then turning on the ignition. i thought about it possibly being a bad batch of fuel (or even possibly wrong fuel as the jerry can was filled up by some japanese dude, and i dont have a good enough grasp on japanese to notice what fuel he's putting in lol) , but id expect some knock or something? once again it just seems too suss that its just a coincidence that the PFC monitor settings defaulted the same time. i had drunken mates in the car at the time, in fact 2 sitting on top of each other in the passenger seat, thinking maybe something was kicked and maybe a wire knocked loose or something.

how can i do this without a voltage tester? is it something the PFC can display?

yeh it sounds like that's the case, but would that attribute to the consistent hesitation at the same engine load each time? if im honest it feels electrical, not like fuel starvation. im thinking there are seperate issues here, one being a fuel related issue that's pissing away fuel, and one with the tune that's causing the hesitation. as i said, it just seems all too weird that in one day, it's gone from no hesitation, hunting idle, to next day, full hesitation at the same load every time, perfect idle, and the monitor settings on my PFC have reset (possibly the whole PFC, i dont know how to check)

been searching the part numbers, and looks like it might be a R32 GTR pump, going to confirm soon, so focus is back on the powerFC for now. one thing i forgot to mention is before it started to hesitate, since ive had the car its hunted on idle, up and down as soon as the car heated up (and came off cold start), now since this hesitation has started, the car idles perfectly, or at least did for the drive i took it for the other day. this is what makes me think its a tune issue.