N1GTR

There's a place in Sydney that have an R34 with 2.6L, GTSS and 355rwkw. Lots and lots of money spent on the head, but i dont know 100% if the turbos are stock or if they've been modified

Keen on pics/info

-7's wound right up? R34N1's maybe? Hard to tell what you're after as you want stock like response with 450rwhp and low mount twins, you've already got what most would consider a perfect setup

Well if your year fits in with what nengun says then you're fine. Get that clutch, there are heaps of GTR's on here with them fitted, you have picked "the" best clutch for the job

I can have that spare front diff in the mail tomorrow. Its not like launching in 1st is nice to any of the drivetrain

Kris, you seem to have a grasp of prices on parts, how much in yen are the replacement motors? Long motor, no turbos etc. Head to sump only.

For sure! Its almost 3 hours away ffs.

Ill do you a swap for a couple of laps once you get the mx5 sorted. Want to see what the hype is about

R32 GTR: Full on build anyway so it being reliable wasnt too much of a concern. That said, it copped a heap of abuse and only needed parts replaced due to the way it was being driven. Jza80 tt supra: Stockish. Not a single thing to complain about. Just needs fluids, fuel and tyres. Lots of rear tyres to be precise. 2000 Berlina: Ive put about 150k on it, its been T boned, ran over a person (not my fault. lesson to the drunk, dont play dodgem with cars in wet dark conditions, losing hurts your knees), killed a wallaby via the front left on an interstate drive, ran into a larger kangaroo via the front right on a different interstate drive (middle of nowhere south west queensland). I use it to move parts and rims around, also for towing. The ONLY thing it needs is fluids. Its never had any issue even after all that sh!t. 3 days ago one of the brake light bulbs died so that needs replacing. I think the more important thing to consider is, buying a great condition car (or new) so you know there's nothing wrong to begin with. My cars get treated well (i treat the holden well,the world seems to want to hurt it though) and always serviced correctly. I drive the supra and holden interstate at least once a month, with 100% trust that ill get to where im going and come back without incident. The GTR went to Victoria and back 2 months ago, no dramas either (lots of fuel used. damn 1000cc injectors) So yeah, dont buy a lemon

Yeah shame about that monster being totalled by the bloke, if i remember correctly it was on a test drive as the guy who bought it from autostyle was selling it? And the prospective buyer stacked it? Easy to do with 370kw atw. Mines got that, its quite stackable as you dont realize how quick it accelerates cause of the linear torque delivery (and the mighty RB30 *throw up RB30 gang signs*). Most of the cars in Autostyles stock list are quite crazy cars. Like the yellow R32 GTR in the corner with 619awkw. Thats right, six hundred and nineteen awkw. The R35 would be the lowest powered Skyline in their floor stock currently. I reckon thats pretty cool Very easy to see why they're so strict. I dont know why yours is still for sale though, it honestly is a well priced good condition car with the right bits on it.

Chris or anyone else worried about dealers taking cars for "test drives", thats a VERY valid point; There is only one place that i know 100% doesnt do that sort of thing with customer cars in Sydney. Autostyle. Dont believe me? No problem. Go up and down Parramatta rd testing cars, then go to Autostyle, and without putting down a non refundable cash/cheque (they'll wait for cheque clearance if you use cheque) deposit try and get the keys in your hand, bum in the fun seat and car on the road. EDIT: No probs Chris. You've got my number if you want anymore info or whatever. Thinking about it, when i worked there out of all the cars i sold there was only 1 test drive where the customer actually drove. Staff do the driving, customer sits passenger. Ask Dom why that is, its a funny story

Cheers Terry

Ouch.

How far over 50deg?

Not being rude or anything Robbie, but its not really a stocker after you've modified it Nice addition to the rb30 results thread yesterday by the way, bring on the new drag car Sh!tload. The labour bill alone will probably make you not want to do it. Head parts dont seem too expensive when you just add cams. But then you get springs. Buckets. Valves. Guides etc.....thats where it costs quite a lot. This still doesnt count porting. Realistically to do properly it with brand name gear, supporting mods and include all labour the bill will be higher than the value of the GTR it goes into if its an R32 or R33 and possibly R34 depending how far you go with suporting mods. Anyone with a seriously built car on here would agree

Would be great if someone had back to back test figures

Be more worried for your front diff If anyone wants to try it out let me know, i have a spare front diff here for sale!

Ive sold cars (will sell anything with a commission lol) on consignment basis before. There are a few things to be mindful of, but basically i can recommend 2 places to sell a car. The actual consignment agreement is pretty basic, but you have to be smart about how you work it out. For example, in most dealerships they will detail the car when it arrives so it looks perfect. You'll be paying for that. They'll brush touch the front end. You'll be paying for that. They'll advertise the car through their normal channels. You'll be paying for that. The floor space costs them money each week. You'll be paying for that. Have a realistic figure you will accept for the car if sold quickly. Reason i say that is that i was selling a car only a short time ago (wont go into specifics about who owned it or anything about it), but the guy wanted 28k for it, i got buyer after buyer at 25k cash, i advised the owner to sell as christmas was getting closer and thats a dead time to be selling anything. He refused based on his opinion that "the car cant be replaced with exchange rates as they are so its worth 28k". I explained that his incurred costs (at a cost of $250 per week) adds up quickly and he would have the cash straightaway. Still refused. 13 weeks after the car first arrived and numerous offers between 24k and 27k it finally sold for 27k and he was desperate for the money by then. Then he got a bill for $3250 according to the agreement he signed, which was deducted from the balance before EFT payment to his account. So, the final price was really $23750. If only he was realistic he wouldve had the money in the bank, interest, less stress. So; -Realistic price -Detail the car yourself and clearly state that you have so there is no need for them to do it -Remember every day it sits unsold costs you money Anything further, pm me. Now the other way to go; There are places that buy cars for cash on the spot. The figures arent always high (generally never), but you get a quick sale, cash in your hand, car gone. Basically they'll try to buy a car for example at 7k and sell on their lot for 10k. Its an entry to the wholesale market for private sellers, consider it like a trade in on a new car but they give you a cheque instead of the new car. Doesnt help private buyers at all (if anyone thinks they can score a mad cheap car). The way to get the best out of this is fairly simple. Get a list of 10 places that offer this service (trading post, take note of signs at caryards as you drive around, normal newspapers etc). Call each of them and say you've got a clean r33 turbo and you would like them to give you a price for it. They will say they need to see the car themselves to give a price (which is fair). Book appointments with each of them on the same day. Book the appointments as close together as possible (and feasible of course, ask how long exactly they will take to inspect and provide a price, then stress you're very busy and can only allocate that time to them). Friday night clean the car like you never have before. Do all the appoinments the next day, at the end of each appointment say that you expected more money for it (this part isnt a lie cause they'll be lowballing you anyway) and you need time to think about it. At the end of the last appointment call up the dealer who offered the most, tell him for another $500 or so he's got a deal. Drive back to that one, car is sold. Easy! Good luck!

Launching is just so much fun, but whatever you do, dont launch with steering angle applied. Only launch dead straight.

PM me what you've got mate Agreed. Thats an experience that wont be forgotten, ever. Do it properly though, get a quick GTR (300+kw atw), 7500rpm, first selected, step off clutch, be ready to slam second, look at passengers face its always mushed into the seat cause they're not expecting what just happened

There's something cool about being told off by that chick when you move a JDM and dont wear the seat belt. Im sure she's just destroying you in japanese

Dude, you NEED to see my car before you go down that path

Interesting to see the price he's asking for the motor. Does anyone have an actual figure for a replacment motor from Nissan? (actual figure, dont just post up if you're guessing)

Soaking wet near Hurstville and Cronulla. Does anyone know if it was in Pyrmont/Annandale? My supra (alloy panels....) is in the open tonight, ironically at a body shop having side skirts done

Power and torque delivery will make the difference once the gtst has a seriously grippy back end. It will be good to play out with him as the delivery should be very linear instead of a dyno/drag trailer sailor. Looking forward to it