ebola

Just wondering if you tried searching? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=133729 and if you are really clever with your search, you can find where to download the software itself (though not on the forum)

funny. I watch the japan threads... one day. post reason: Subscribe - the options things isn't working...

weight. Clear and simple. It can be compensated for, but the handling won't be as good as if didn't have the extra kilos. Anyway, I am curious - do you want the engine or the drivetrain MORE? My 2c - from where I'm sitting, the murano package makes much more sense on paper. Should be easier to adapt, lighter engine, still 4wd, and cheaper. Of course, if your heart is set on it... (like I have an R32 because thats what I wanted, despite being 2L with slow 4wd), achieve the dream. Yeah. Long day at work.

Yeah - I think is 'CUSTOM'

Went through something similar in VIC... The JIS (Japan Industrial Standard) tag on the seatbelts is acceptable as ADR Compliant. get a copy of the seatbelts section. It says something about 'ADR Markings OR EQUIVALENT'. Of course, this was in vic. And it was a week long arguement. That I won (with the help of the auto engineer who issued the compliance cert giving me this info) Hope the 'or equivalent' applies in QLD as well as VIC. Good luck either way. Oh - and auto engineer said he could do it for $400 (so you have a prive point) - but that it didn't need to be done.

fast = expensive. "cheap performance" is a bit of a myth. and 300hp = 220 kW (get metric, buddy), read the 200kw rb20 thread. over 100kW/L... (yeah, the imports are 'cheap performance'. 160 kW from 2L for under 15k, AND 4wd... is pretty good value for money). spend some time searching the forums for more budget upgrades first. if you really want the power, you will have to run big boost, huge rpm, or more cubes (I vote 1 AND 3). Have some fun with the car. Play with the 4wd (r32 is ok) so that you appreciate the handling difference. Then look for upgrades. "First Mods" - like I said. search the forum. exhaust, intake, handling kit, then start looking at more dollars and more individual choices. --ebola

just don't make a habit of it. R32 is fuel cut (I guess R33 would be the same). so it gets nice and lean... and nice and hot. its better than revving the engine to 14k, though.

Agreed value means they insure it for what you tell them, and pay the premium to match. Of course, they have to agree, but that shouldn't be a problem if you are reasonable. There is a clear distinction between MARKET and AGREED value. I played around with their calculator. Anything less than 10k has the same rate as 10k (9, 9.5), so I'd push the agreed value up to that (eg - same premium). Once you state a number past 10k, they pass the risk onto your premium (Damn Actuaries) use the online quote tool to check this youself.

Couldn't help it:

Sure, it "feels" like it should. I lost vaccuum on my brake booster in my magna once. The brakes "felt" alot harder - much like I am sure yours do. The problem (!) is that you still have the same amount of braking for the same amount of pedal throws - its just alot harder to get the pedal down that far. Also, brakes are brakes. They all work on the same principle (regenerative braking aside - but you don't own a hybrid, right?). Stand brake advice applies. (I'm not a mechanic, so.... advice from here on is... opinion only. I have lots of opinions.) bleed first. Then check all cylinders. take it to a brakes specialist. --ebola

Seatbelt "Australian Standard Marking"... law includes 'or equivalent standards/markings' (something like that). JIS markings (Japan Industrial Standards) ARE Australian Standard under the law. Should be a white tag near the base. I had a two week argument with a mechanic over this. They wanted to replace them (and charge me). I said they WERE Australian Standard... I won. FYI, is all --ebola

Melbourne. COD Decent 16' rims. $250 is cheap for them. Was going to keep them for drifting. Instead I'm getting married and moving to the UK for a year. I'd consider keeping the for everyday use... but being a bit slow, I didn't realize that the different widths (and different tyres that I would be putting on them) would kill the attessa. So no gtr/gts4 daily drivers need apply (good for drift, though). 7' and 8' wide. They don't look half bad at all (see pic). They look pretty solid, but they are alloy, so its not like dragging around four anchors attached to the wheels. 7' has 'new' second hand tyres. Decent legal tread and all that. 8' lasted a drift session just fine (rubber is pretty hard), but arn't what I would call road legal. Want to recoup some of the money I spent getting them, so they are for sale. PM me. nK nicholas Krul

Whether or not you can drive - almost 3 k in insurance!!!! That makes it quite clear to me. 3k could pick me up quite a few goodies for mine...

Don't know about tps. My theory is speedo From a complete halt, the front ALWAYS gets a fair whack of initial torque. When moving, there is a delay. also, if it was tps and g-sensor, you would get large front torque with any quick acceleration. try rolling along in 1st (no acceleration) and putting some light throttle on. Will be different to the initial torque from a halt. also, it makes more sense to be speedo based. the only time a different to standard map would be needed is from a complete halt. also, about the '50 in the wet' - as soon as wheelspin is detected (straight line), it fully engages the front wheels, and as long as there is any acceleration, it keeps it at 50. Don't know about what happens with corners. hadn't thought about it before... I'll have to try. This is just my car (R32), so I speak from limited experience. oh - and its _not_ 50%. read the gauge (yes, I'm pedantic) EDIT - nope, I was wrong. Damn - I thought the theory was pretty good.

'vette... plenty of 'lines around... though the rb28 would be hell nice. My Dad laughs at 2L cars as well. but he had a 13 sec monaro in the late 80's, so I guess I'll forgive him. The 2.8 stroker would prove to your father that that 'monster torque' feel that comes with a big block v8 can almost be reached with a much smaller displacement... and the same peak power... I still vote the 'vette. Either way, pics!!! --ebola

brakes are the same as type M gtst (R32, of course). Unfortunatley, so is the engine. as said, drivetrain and suspension is gtr Congrats on the car. Enjoy

R32 attessa is slow... nearly 1/2 a second sounds about right. R33/34 use a different system (which is quicker), and a different computer (which is quicker). They also have a (small) preload, which gives a much better feel to the car under most driving conditions There are controllers that will adjust the front torque up for cornering (via forum name Duncan, I think), but I don't know of any that will give a permanent preload for an R32 (and if they did, I don't know if the clutch packs would suffer excssive wear or anything). I was going to try and wire up a primitive resistor based one (it appears to be possible), but I just havn't had the time. MANWHORE - ugly? pot calls kettle "black" (no accounting for taste) --ebola

? and possibly report this to the police in the hope that it will prevent the thieves/scammers/whatever from stealing someones car again... as in you should. car sale thread... even if it is only for reference material. research is good...

Well, my old magna was fine at towing... car trailer & car... and it was no where near as solidly built as my skyline. I don't know about how strong the R32 gts-t's are, but the gtr would have to be stronger than the magna. I would suggest that the chassis would be the limiting factor in towing, as you can actually tow quit well with very little power. hit 100k out past Strathalbyn (SA) with an old toyota brick on the trailer. Just after replacing the rear torsion bar. no problem... but the brakes did warm up pretty quickly. If a crappy old carby 4cyl manual fwd can tow that weight without a problem, I'd think a gtr would have no problem.

umm.... don't know, except that smaller R is better (because more sidewall). Speaking of which, I have a spare set of 16' rims I'm about to try and sell... Honestly though, I don't know how much difference it will make with drag radials. I would think enough, but I don't know. as to how much rubber you need - in my uneducated opinion, the 275 should be enough if you only have minor mods. Though for the difference in price, I'd probably stretch it for the 195's regardless... I don't know how you are planning to use them, but I wouldn't want them on any time except for when I am on the track. They won't wear well, and will not handle well (weak sidewall). Drag tyres... Well, thats my opinion, anyway. But since I'm not a drag racer, well, I speak from theory. I'd reccomend a second opinion (and a second set of rims... unless you want to pay for the rubber on and off around track days). give it a couple of days (if you can), bump it, then go post in the motorsport / drag section.

search clicked first before question asked should be

Aaaah, crap. Stuff the long spiel. its mostly been covered anyway. Don't wanna get into the flame war (fun to read, though) my question is: how. I want a tow bar on my car. I periodically borrow other peoples cars for their tow bar. I guess a custom crossmember will be needed. The rest I guess would be fine.