ebola

I guess it would work - just wire it up on the lateral sensor, and set the load points. set your own static curve to have more of a clamp at 2.5V umm, yeah. too bad if you want to change it. honestly, go the resistors if you want a fixed value... and for adjustable, I see you have found the $350 controller thread.

Think about what and where the oil is going... you would be catching the crossover between the breathers... so it would be 50% or a standard setup. I won't say it won't work... it might, I just don't think it would really be much use (especialy for the time, effort and money put in) block off the ecv, and put the catch can on the other side (leave it plumbed to the I/C). 100% legal, better idling... Of course, I have yet to do this...

clutch or synchros - you want more than that, take it to a mechanic. and if the clutch _is_ having issues - fix that first. Then come back if there are still issues. test the clutch. pull onto the freeway in 2nd, give it heaps. make sure you DON'T lose traction... if your clutch will slip, you should feel it. thats about all I can help with - find a mate who knows cars and take them for a spin, or just go to the mechanic... There could be many reasons for the crunch, as long as the clutch is suspect, there is no point speculating. --> bye

mine has 72 thou on it when I imported it. I even think they were legit. long story short, don't trust the k's - often wound back in japan, and its soooooo easy to get a new dash in aus. take it for a spin, check it out - the motors are good for quite a while (just make sure the timing belt has been replaced, or do it yourself) any more info than that - see up the top... under the red bit in the banner(SAU)... see how it says Search... use it. oh - and I'd reccomend personal sales - cheaper, if you know what you are doing...

Does it happent when you change up at a reasonable pace? it could be the synchros (but it shouldn' be)... depends on what you call 'fast' but before pointing at the synchros, first get your cluth seen to... it its slipping... its probably worn. and when you get your clutch replaced, it will (should) include the pressure plate. Although I don't understand 'only slipping in 3rd'... but if the clutch is consistently slipping, fix it. I think 2nd and 3rd have double synchros, 4th and 5th dont, but the 4-5 change is a smaller ratio. It could be the clutch isn't completley disengaging - but even with the clutch disengaged, the synchros still need time to spin everything up to speed. After all that armchair diagnosis, I warn you that I am mereley an computer geek with just enough knowledge to be dangerous. just take it easy on the 3-4 (and 4-5 I'd guess, if you could get it fast enough) changes, and get your clutch seen to when you can. the clutch _may_ be causing the secondary issues (not completley engaging / disengaging). there should be no need to go from 3-4 fast - I can pull onto the freeway in 2nd (100), and 3rd goes to 150. Take it easy with your car - and what exactly is it? GT-T or GTR?

Unless you want to turn the front wheels to any angle other than 0 degrees... then there is wear, be the diff open, limited slip or locked (??).

its cool... I want a 4 door gtr - including gtr grip (still debating when / whether to roll the gaurds)... this would be sweet... depending on how much it all is - and how much " Need body processing " equates to. Keep me posted............

NOT normal. I cruise at 110 (ish) for hours at a time... I'd wear out my centre clutch if it did this check your tyre diameters - they should be the same. The fact that this only happens at speed makes it likley this is the issue. rsvp

I thougut that all an engine dampener did was help to stop cracking engine mounts (and brake booster vaccuum hoses, but thats another story). so less IMPACT on mounts (resists sudden changes), same strain... as to "more power on the ground" - only if you drop the engine out.

R32 gts-4 has the same brakes as a gtst M-spec. Not sure about the the rb25de gts-4, but for the rb20det, definatley.

doesn't the hicas controller also control the power steering? eg - light steering at slow speeds, heavier at higher (so I'm told - my hicas has never worked).

Awesome.... another gts4. I wish mine was that clean. Congratulations... I know you'll have fun.

As to why the attessa isn't working, well, it might be that the abs (eg - wheelspin) sensors are missing too... Just getting the pump to work - from what I can work out (from wiring diagrams), its contolled by a a single solenoid. I'm not sure if there is any other imput (computer, etc) to give the torque split, however. I __PRESUME__ its a variable duty cycle @ full voltage, but hey, guesses are guesses. If so, it could be switch controlled with some simple eletronics... but I'd be curious about pulse width. Meh - I still havn't wired up mine yet, so its easy to give advice and not have to take it.

On the radio this morning - a report about an unrepentent 18 y.o. P plater caught at 95 in a 70 zone. Apparently police 'don't know what to do' about his attitude. It seems the tone of this thread is mostly about awareness of limits and consequences, which would help immensley, but what about burning off some of that adrenaline? I feel it would help public image if there could be a few ACCESSIBLE motor parks. Better vehicle control, better awareness of limits, better understanding of consequences... and a chance to still have a pure fun hoon once in a while. wanst there a police drift F6 as part of an 'outreach' program (before it said hello to a wall in brisbane)... so there is at least soemeone who is willing to think 'outside the box'. Is there a way we can have some political representation, or will we simply whine about how unfair life is? Because as it is, this is a merely academic excercise. * It all made so much more sense before it turned from an idea into text.

looking glass cake

Damn.... After all that, I still managed to get it wrong. I hate that. I was pretty sure that the 4wd system really _is_ the same b/n gtr and gts4... glad it was.

err - If you're going to turbo, I think it'd probably be cheaper to engine swap to an rb20det... and if you are going to do that, take the rb25 route... hell yeah. and to indluge my little fantasy... drop in a Nissan V8. just save enough for the g/b and brakes... if you beef up to GO, beef up the STOP...

What about another coat of 'factory black'... I'd go for it... and it _is_ a nissan...

? I cited wiki... you just reeled off a word. If I'm wrong, please prove it... I challenge you. If you can prove it, I'll be happy. Just so you know, I did spend a few hours one day (work was slow that day) researching it on the net.

echo AAARRGGHHH! cat * | grep Topic Subscription Reply Notification echo finally rm -fr /

1) wanna send me a DVD with FAST? 2) I'm pretty sure they are the same... unless you have a V-spec... and even then, I geuss teh pumps would be the same. and its spelt ATTESA... cos I'm pedantic

They look cool, and people who think fwd is slow are just bitter at having had their 3.8L commo or 4.0L ford handed to them by a 3.5L fwd magna... and people who complain about understeer problems, well, from my experience, gtr/gts4 is pretty front heavy... Perhaps you should find a candidate car, and post specs... here, or perhaps the magna forums (are there fto forums?)... Overall, I like them... light, 3.0L mitsu engine has mods around... I'm pretty sure they have traction control...

V12 ... I like it ... now all I need is a spare 10k (or more?) and make is 2 x RB25DET...

deep dish. deeeeeeeep dish deeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep dish

Very doable - all the examples of where it has been 'done', however, and all RWD vehicles. The topic is specifically about a gts4. What with all that 4wd gear, and a different bell housing (is my terminology correct?), its more than a little different.