No Crust Racing

I think the front should work as I have all the other bits there, adjustable castor, roll centre adjusters (25mm) an am looking at extended tie rods for bump steer. What about the rear though? If I put a new hole 5mm out up front, then the total track will be 10mm wider on the front end. Is the easiest way to match that on the rear just run a basic 5mm slip on hub centric spacer? Yes, S chassis.

Drilling new holes rather, not slotting the existing ones. Up front I'm talking.

So, removed the whole hub as I couldn't get a good swing at the ball joint to split it from the LCA (replacing ball joints and putting new castor arms in). While it's all out I was thinking I could slot the LCA inner mount 5mm or so, gain some camber and get a little extra track. Any issues with doing this? The other thing I considered was how I match that in the rear, I have a little extra camber adjustment left that might get me the camber I need, but I can't slot the LCA mounts the same way as they are boxed and there;s nothing to work with. The other issue was if I add track up front I need to add it out the back too, slip on 5mm hub centric spacer or something?

NP, don't stress. Cheers

You should give me that template

bcozican: How much stuff around was it to weld in the plates to create the new mount points? As I didn't think the factory mounts had anywhere that much material to work with.

Not quite. I'm investigating this because I added swaybars and found the car has handled worse afterwards, despite having a "recipe" that seems to work for others. My car is not dumped but it's lower than factory and after doing some reading I found that I having LCAs below parallel (and stock castor up front) may be a big part of the unbalance in the setup. At the last track day, it burned up the outside edge of the tyres more than it ever has in a single event. The car might now be too stiff with 8/6kg springs front and rear and 27m front adjustable (max soft) and 25mm (hollow) rear swaybar. Or it may be that the tyres are just now at the limit (they are only 235 RS-Rs) but the wear on the outside edge implies the tyres are rolling over (despite having -3 front and -1.5rear camber). So castor and Roll centres were suggested so I'm working on that.

I am in no way qualified to answer that properly. I am simply reading/taking advice from people far more qualified than me. This all started when I added sway bars to my car and found the whole setup to be too stiff, I went fast enough but it was burning up the outside edge of front and rear tyres faster than it ever has, despite what would be considered "adequate" camber. I thought drop spring rates but was advised against that. The suggestion was, get some caster up front, and raise the vehicle to improve roll centres. The alternative is get some RCA's up front and change subframe height in the rear to improve roll centres without raising the car - which is already not "that" low as it's not a fully sik drifter.

As below - which is why I am also looking to change sub frame height to improve roll centre. "The amount of weight, or load, transfer that occurs during acceleration is determined by three things: 1. the magnitude of the accelerating force, which cannot necessarily be changed with the same motor/gear combination; 2. the length of the wheelbase-again not a variable; 3. the height of the center of gravity of the car. The last item is influenced by A/S, and load transfer is affected by it. A higher center of gravity means more weight is transferred during acceleration off the corners. If the car squats during acceleration, the rear becomes lower, and the overall center of gravity is then lower in the car. A lower center of gravity means less weight transfer and less vertical load that is applied to the rear tires upon acceleration. By using A/S to keep the rear of the car from squatting, the center of gravity remains higher, and therefore more weight will be transferred to the rear tires."

I am only going off what I read, it's the other way around. You want a little more anti-squat to improve grip on tarmac.

I hadn't considered that. I'm getting R32 LCA's as I found some with new inner bushes and RCA's already pressed in. I will stick with S13 subframe and either get solid bushes or the nolathane ones with the spacers that allow the anti-squat characteristics to be changed. http://www.nolathane...des/50-9154.pdf Not solid but allows me to change angle and get more anti-squat. I don't know if it changes sub frame height though and the goal was to improve roll centre.

Might just go with subframe bushes then, sounds like the easier option. If that doesn't get the LCA's parralell I'll have to bring the ride height back up a little. With the swaybar in there that shouldn't matter too much body roll wise.

I have adjustable camber and toe arms. More interested in if this is a worth wile swap or if I'm better off just throwing in the solid subframe bushes to the standard subframe and working with whatever roll centre improvement that gives (as it changes height by 10mm) So I'd need S14 LCA's also? And you think S13 (in my case R32 GT-R) swaybar, mounts and endlinks fit?

Good to know, thanks for the tip.

100% track.

S13 which is about to get some Cusco Caster arms, Freshly painted R32 LCA's with new inner bushes and Nagisa Roll Centre adjusters up front. (has coil overs, and adjustable camber and toe arms in the rear). Also have Whiteline 27mm adjustable front swaybar and R32 GT-R rear. What's the best option for the back? Was going to get solid subframe bushes as they apparently raise the subframe up and help fix Roll Centre in the rear (GKTech kit or something similar). It was suggested I go S14 rear subframe as it apparently has better geometry. that apparently means adding some spacers to rear toe arms as the mount on the S14 subframe is wider, but apparently everything else is the same, which is odd as I thought the S14 subframe was wider by 10mm each side or something, which would mean swaybar doesn't fit? Thoughts? Just add subframe bushes or worth swapping subframes? I was looking at Skyline rear calipers also, ditching drum handbrake and buying inline hydro handbrake or not running one at all. If the S14 frame is wider, that means needing spacers up front.

I've bought Roys cusco arms, r32 lca's and Nagisa RCA's the question now is the rear. What's the best option for the back? Was going to get solid subframe bushes as they apparently raise the subframe up and help fix Roll Centre in the rear (GKTech kit or something similar). It was suggested I go S14 rear subframe as it apparently has better geometry. that apparently means adding some spacers to rear toe arms as the mount on the S14 subframe is wider, but apparently everything else is the same, which is odd as I thought the S14 subframe was wider by 10mm each side or something, which would mean swaybar doesn't fit? Thoughts? Just add subframe bushes or worth swapping subframes? I was looking at Skyline rear calipers also, ditching drum handbrake and buying inline hydro handbrake or not running one at all. If the S14 frame is wider, that means needing spacers up front.

Ahh, my car is lucky to cover a few thousand ks a year - track ks granted, but still. I assume inspecting the spherical bearing is as simple as giving it a yank and seeing what freeplay there is?

Lifeing both?

Do they fit an S13 though? Do R32 LCA's widen the track? What are you after Bris?

I use two stage ramps I made that the splitter clears and are long enough that the wheel hits the leading edge before the next "step". Making it easily removeable might just be easier.

I might have to redesign mine. Yours must be lower if it clears the swaybar also. I had issues with mine attaching to the cross member after upgrading to the bigger swaybar. Bar pushed the splitter down and bent brackets (stayed attached though).

I'll be watching your splitter progress, I'm thinking about V2 myself. How high does your current design sit off the ground and how are you going loading it onto trailers?

#budgetracing But if that's what they cost then so be it.

Thanks, not an issue for me thankfully. I had someone tell me that ISC are junk, thoughts? I have ISC rear camber arms and they "seem" fine. The car doesn't do a lot of K's each year. I didn't really wanna pay $200 for caster arms.