No Crust Racing

I keep my eye out as I'd like another GT-r (had a 33 previously). Whilst I can afford either, it's a hard pill to swallow when you see things like this forged rebuild R33 for 40k less than this nice R34. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/454161-r33-gtr-forged-engine/?hl=%2Br33#entry7515564 http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/_/SSE-AD-3339180 I've looked at a couple cheaper R34s, 45ish, and so many seem to have had a hit or have very minimal mods. That 34 I posted would need another 10k in parts or so to be how I'd like it as a street car Are R34 values climbing? Anyway, that's my rant.

Can you please check: BNR34-400864 GGJPRVYR34ZDAAAXAD I'd like to know what model of R34 GT-R that is, V-spec1/2 M-Spec etc.

I am sort of thinking I might not change much at all and will head to winton as is for back to back testing with known lap times. Then adjust dampening, then maybe disconnect some swaybar end links and see what happens. I am also feeling like I might be asking too much from the tyres but I do recall hearing of a soarer (heavier than me) that did a flat 40 at Winton on the same tyres so I should be able to do it easily...

I love how my questions always get some different responses. I've been told that any more camber would kill these tyres (street tyres) but then again I feel like I'm seeing wear on the outside edge - as in it's darker and feathered.

Much better tyres than mine. Most of the advice in getting about more camber or harder dampers is from people running much wider and grippier tyres so I'm in too minds about how much it applies to me.

What tyres?

I am running 27mm front, softest setting, and 25mm hollow gtr rear, which roughly equates to 19-22mm solid I read. The whiteline rear bars are solid. So stiffer again. Thanks for info. Interesting about your comment re hardest front as I imagine that would cause it to understeer more.

Gotchya, thanks

Hmm, ok. Normally when I have them set more firmly, it costs me grip.

I forgot to the check the settings but I am fairly sure they are on or close to max soft - or do yo u mean via springs?

Collecting suggestions and so far they are. - Raise ride height to get LCAs back to parallel - Increase camber to around -3.5 front and -2-2,5 rear - Add adjustable caster arms and aim for around 5-6degrees (which will help camber also) - Drop spring rates to 6/4.5. - Return to stock swaybars. A friend of mine who is running Tiens with 8/6 rates and similar bars has the above done (but is also running AD08R and in wider sizes) and his car is far more balanced. Thoughts?

Where's the fun in that... CHANGE ALL THE THINGS I get your point though.

Oh and because the tyre wear seems to be on the outside edge.

I'll make sure they're even'ish. I'm only talking more camber as that's what other, faster cars, are doing.

Also, what about the rear end. The only suggestion there was more camber.

OK so raise the ride height, and get some castor arms. I also have ties to the local BMW dealership who are happy to run over the car on their laser aligner for mates rates. Any indication of what ride height should be in the rear? Front seems to be, get arms parallel, what about the rear? OH I may also grab some camber bolts.

If I raise it, I'm going to lose some neg camber also, so may also need camber bolts - but then strut clearance starts to become an issue. A few people are jumping up and down about how I am still running stock caster arms also - which should give me more neg (dynamic) camber if I understand it correctly.

How high is "right" though, front LCA's parallel at least?

Realistically, I should be able to raise it up and not have a heap of extra roll with those swaybars and springs.

Two other things. I'm being advised to get some adjustable castor arms and dial in more positive castor and was also asked to look at the angle of my LCAs, which are definitely not parallel upfront. Cross member side sits lower than wheel side which as I understand it is not good for Roll Centre,

I put it on stands last night after packing up all my gear from the track day. Interestingly the outside edge of the tyres front and rear looks darker/more worn. Which I thought would imply it needs more camber. Talking to a buddy of mine with a very similarly setup car (but better and wider tyres) he runs -3.5 front and -2.5 rear with the same bars and spring rates (although Tien RS and no BCs).

Spoke to BC who suggested I speak with Paul at option1, he recommended returning to the stock front swaybar and testing that, leaving spring rates alone. Then swapping that around and putting the stock rear back in but leaving the front. That's a fir bit of f**king around at a paid track day but it's not impossible. I might take both bars, go and run a session with it as it is, and see how those times compare to previous Winton times then look to swap a bar out and test again. Federal said my hot tyre pressures are fine. Paul also said my alignment settings were on the money.

I'll get under the car when I can and see how the tyre wear looks also, as I'm yet to check that.

The ARB at the front is adjustable and on max soft, as in the connection points are farthest from each other. I'm just getting details on going 6/4kg spring rates instead.

I actually didn't touch them, and I should have at least checked them. If I recall they are both close to, if not already on, max soft.