No Crust Racing

Not at all, I'm looking for reasons to ignore the first odd comp test result because I like the car. Inspecting on the 23rd.

The question is whether it needs a rebuild or not. The guy at Godzilla seemed like a bit of an ass to be honest. To then see these comp test results be different doesn't fill me with confidence he did a good job testing it. I will have another mechanic look it over. I would have to think that between the 2x Rims, the HKS Catback Exhaust and the RB30 short block there'd have to be 6-7k there, that goes a long way "IF" the car needs a fresh bottom end. I might stretch and insist I want the PFC also as he was contemplating keeping that.

I also mentioned the car cranking slowly which he said he noticed also, but that the battery is new.

And this one with less cranks, appears to be a 5psi difference max. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EKOd5P3sZks&feature=youtu.be

Just received this video. I have no idea what a "cold" engine should show on a thermal gun but I'd think it would be higher than 23 degrees. I did mentioned to him that cranking it that many times can give a false positive as the cylinder has a chance to keep building pressure. He's going to have another go when his brother drops by so he can video the comp gauge building pressure on each stroke for me. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sf5_UfXRlkc

It's running a haltech, no afms.

The power is an issue for me because I was hoping for more like 450hp. I'm in two minds about compression given that it's a higher kilometres engine anyway and a rebuild would have always been in my future. With the spares that come with the car I could go a long way to covering the cost of a rebuild and then I'd have a fresh motor. The other part of me thinks I could just as easily pass on this and wait until something better comes along. There's still things like the box, diffs, etc to consider Chris said the Haltech had more features but the PFC ran car better, especially on standard ignition setups and was happier without a crank trigger setup than the Haltech.

I've always thought you did both and should expect the same type of variance across all cylinders. If one is down when cold then up when warm, that's a ring sealing issue - which could be rings or bores, but simply rules out valves.

RB26 service manual (for R32) says "Warm up engine".

Consensus, compression tests should be done cold or hot?

Yeah it made more power on 21psi obviously, but with a stock motor/headgasket they dialed it back.

Seems low when -7's/GT-SS will make 320 on 98. The compression is my bigger concern.

He's just called me, gone and bought a new gauge and done his own test and claimed that cyl 4 came up as 160. I questioned if that was warm or cold and he mentioned the car is likely still warm from being in the shop earlier and will do another test tomorrow morning dead cold. That might explain why it's down on power. I am so bummed right now I cannot even begin to explain it.

Spoke to Chris at Race Pace to pick his brain. Got some pricing on rebuilds etc for reference. Interestingly, he felt that the PFC was the better ECU for that car, but did admit the Haltech has a lot more features. As per the above see what the second test shows up. There's not enough $$ to come from spares to cover the cost of a rebuild at Race PAce, I do have some other options but just wanted to start with those guys.

Some interesting/bad news. Car went in for check over and tune - with the bigger exhaust on. At 18psi, it only maid a bit over 300awkw, which seems low for -5s on 18psi. On 21psi, it made around 335awkw, which to me still seemed low based on RB26 dyno thread figures. Maybe those numbers are RWKW though? Anyone kow what the AW to RW loss is? I didn't think it was very much, Also, compression test showed this. 150 155 160 135 165 155 That was a cold test. He is going to get it checked elsewhere cold and hot but 135 seems suspect to me, it's also greater than the 14 or so PSI the service manual allows. I'm interested to see what a second test shows up. Thoughts?

I'm willing to risk a couple hundred to buy me time to get there. He did say I was far and away the most engaged and knowledgeable buyer, the type of person he was hoping would buy (as the car is his baby etc). He was fairly confident I would be inspecting first, but said he'd keep me posted. I'm still trying to wrangle the inclusion of the PowerFC also as I have a mate who wants it

Finally got specs on the short motor. No receipts for the parts but the pistons are stamped with spool logos. The motor is prepped for a 26 head. the head stud holes are tapped out to fit oversized rb26 studs. New ARP head studs and cometic metal gasket to suit - an RB26 head will bolt straight on. ARP RB30 main studs have been used on the bottom end. Main bearings are .25mm over Big End bearings are .25mm over Bore is 86.5mm – (0.5mm over) compression ratio is 9:1 All bearings are ACL race bearings. Have confirmed I'll go see him on Wednesday the 23rd, he has one other buyer from interstate trying to get up tpo see him and wouldn't accept a refundable holding deposit but said he would tell me if the other guy was going to get there before me - though he thought that unlikely. I asked what sort of non refundable deposit he wanted if it came to that and he said just enough to cover doing another roadworthy if I didn't buy, couple hundred at most, so if the other guy gets there before me I'll just put that money down to give me a chance to inspect and first dibs on buying. Car is in at Godzilla today.

Good to know, cheers.

Good to know, anchor points as standard?

Oh and have any of you gone through the process of adding the v-spec sensors to the car (exhaust and intake temp). I've read this can be done by buying the physical sensors then putting the MFD into diag mode. Alternatively, has anyone fitted the Nismo option MFD PCD as I will defs be running more than 1.2bar of boost.

Have any of you guys had a baby seat in the back of 34? I know I will get more use out of this car if I can take the missus and our toddler in it.

I would only take a 35 if the price was right, I thought I had one lined up but it appears to have fallen through and the potential seller is no longer responding (cold feet perhaps or maybe it was easier for him to trade the car in as he said he might). I only considered that as it was a great price, If I had to buy at market value, it would be hard for me to justify 90k+ sitting in the shed getting the rare drive so I backed out of that option. Rare because I have a 2.5yr old and am very reluctant to put a baby sit in any GT-R I buy and damage the rear seats. Then it came time to choose between the 33 and 34, the big issue there is head vs heart. I owned a Series 2 R33 V-Spec, loved it, but always wanted a 34 purely for the interior and exterior aesthetics. I know they are line ball performance wise. For 20k less I could have a 33 that's fully built, and that's a hard option to pass up knowing the rebuild costs of a blown RB26. Bottom line though, as this is a buy it and keep it car, I've always REALLY wanted an R34, in that colour, with black wheels. IF we say I can make 3-4k on the spares, surely more but let's keep it low. That becomes a fairly nice 34, series 2 no less, for 49-50k, that seems like good value.

I do, and limited use, and stored in shed not garage, behind locked gates etc. Rating 1, all that jazz. As for the car, I'm inspecting on the 22-23rd or so, will leave deposit if I like what I see. I'm trying hard not to get excited so I don't get disappointed. Already pricing NACA duct through Terry's guy. Working out if I clear coat the wheels (I like gloss) or just sell for something gloss with better fitment (they seem a little tame offset wise).

If it checks out compression wise and I like the car when I inspect it, I'm leaning towards that. Godzilla Motorsport (where the car is going for a check over/tune) won't answer the phone though.

Shannons quote is 1200pa, $500 excess. All mods listed and agreed value at the buy price. Seem fair? Nobody else seems to come close.