No Crust Racing

I haven't even asked for the VIN yet, what's a JOC? He strikes me that way, he was well aware of any problem I through at him, such as "How's the MFD?" "Its been replaced as I couldn't handle the crazing on the screen". He gave me a full run down of how to fit the RB30, some issues with RB26 alternators, why he had swapped to RB30, discussion around R34 CAS etc etc.

I've been talking with the owner about this but I'm in two minds about it. It ticks a lot of boxes (gun metal, dark interior, modded) but there's a few things I'm not sure about. Here's the details from the ad. 2001 model, (comes with dark interior) 144,XXXkm's (Genuine Odo...) Exterior: Full custom gunmetal respray Car is immaculate. Wheels/Suspension: New Nitto Invo's New RDA Rotors with new New Project Mu HC800 pads Genuine Rays Engineering Volk TE37 Superlap's 19x9.5 Nismo Type S suspension front and rear. Exhaust: HKS Super Silent 3" Venom Cat HPI dump pipes Blitz front pipes Engine/drivetrain mods: Nismo Super Coppermix Clutch. Garrett Gt2860-5 turbo's Splitfire Coilpacks Haltech Platinum Pro ECU. Tomei Poncams 800cc Sard injectors Walbro 400LPH intank pump Apexi/HKS full piping kit and pods Genuine HKS type R intercooler. interior: Stock, clean interior, no extra guages or stuff like that. A final Note: First Australian Owner, Imported in 2011 as a completely stock vehicle. Car is running a good street tune at the moment, just had a service. Owned her for 4 years, time to say goodbye . Very reluctant sale. After talking to the owner, who is very helpful and seems quite honest and genuine. A few things stand out. - I'm in two minds about the respray, it looks like a quality job (I'll fly up to inspect the car myself if it passes a preliminary check over by my dad who is closer to the car). I love the colour but wonder what's being hidden. He notes he painted it as the black paint was faded in a few spots and that he loves gunmetal. - The boot lock does not match the key which implies tome it's had a boot lid replaced - maybe from a hit. The seller mentioned that himself and said the panel beater could find no trace of a hit as the seller had this same concern. - High k's, he notes it has excellent compression (Godzilla Motorsport) and is making a safe 340awkw which is a little low for -5's but is only running 98 octane, I'm not just thinking about the engine though (diffs/box/bushes etc). I'm aware that lots of GT-R's receive cluster swaps and have much higher K's than advertised, he claims this is the original cluster. The car can possibly also come with a fully prepped RB30 short block that he has sitting ready. He said he's welcome for me to have the car professionally inspected and also offered a hoist for when my dad comes by, - Interior blemishes. The seats look good but the marks on the cluster surround I'm not sure I can clean off. Also the marks on the passenger side rear arm rest and the carbon fibre wrap on the coin cover and near the AC controls. He said he's removing this and cleaning up any residue. - In terms of pros, he has a bunch of spares that will come with the car. Turbos, piping, powerFC, 2 spare rims (just Rota's) and possibly that RB30 (which I might sell as the work involved is still fairly substantial, RB28 might be easier). Basically anything he has modified he has kept the stock version of (except the cams). There's quite a few dollars in bits there, especially if I can get that RB30 as well. - I love the colour/wheel combo and while it's a respray it's also a one off unique colour which makes it a little special. Not sure about those wheels in matte, I assume I could put a clear coat over them for a gloss look, though the offset looks a little tame on them also. - There's nothing else on the market like this at present so I'd have to import otherwise. The car will be a once a month kind of drive and the occassional track day (hence concern around K's). I would add a vspec 2 naca duct and rear diffuser also as the car is not a v-spec. I'll also add the exhaust temp and intake sensors and add those to the MFD via the diag mode as described on here. He's coming back to me with full details on the short motor but gave me this rundown - cometic head gasket all quality brand new ARP fasteners, big end bolts and head studs etc. The engine and crank have been machined and balanced, the con-rods are spool items and the pistons are Carrillo's. all the big end bearings and girdle bearings are ACL race bearings. Built for 9:1 and e85. The seller himself seems very friendly, helpful and more than happy to answer my questions, show me photos and is very specific about showing me any flaws etc. Thoughts? Oh and don't go trying to buy it... I've got dibs on it.

Thanks for the PMs so far people, hoping to get down to Melbourne this weekend for a few test drives so if you have something keep this in mind.

Prefer Series 2 or 3 R33 or Series 2 (Dark Interior) R34 but open to others. Prefer white or silver, with a higher preference for Gunmetal/Silver colours. Ideally something with 350awkw minimum (not a set figuire but to give an idea, ore is welcome). Not looking for single conversions unless they are engineered in Vic. Built motors welcome, with receipts. Car should be road worthy/not a cop magnet. Not after something requiring E85 exclusively as there's none locally from the pump. Flex fuel sensor OK. Interior should be clean/not have gauges/electronics everywhere, the more stock looking the better. Side skirts and rear pods highly desired. Car will be tracked on the odd occasion so need not be absolutely immaculate externally but should be fairly clean and genuine. I'm in Wodonga but will obviously have travel, Melbourne and Sydney preferred but open to anything. Be ready to answer questions and potentially have the car inspected by a workshop (my cost). This is not urgent, happy to wait for the right car. Flexible on some things (dont mind if i have to change wheels, add skirts etc). Prefer V-specs in R34 for the front and rear diffusers (and bonnet in VS2). Much prefer R33 Series 3 headlights. Budget will vary on model/mods obviously. Examples.

2001, custom paint. -5's, TE37 SL's etc. Have been speaking to the owner as it's for sale, but wondering if anyone else knows the car just to compare notes. Car was originally black.

Is this the car I saw for sale floating around facebook? PM me if so.

Perhaps an odd request but I'd like to drive both on the same day to help me make a call on which GTR I want to get into. Trying not to waste a seller/dealers time while I work out my preferences. Happy to cover your fuel costs, not looking to flog the car but would like to experience both at WOT, you can do that part if you'd prefer. R34 should ideally be 300awkw minimum, preferably 350 or so. R35 can be stock but an exhaust/Cobb would be ideal. I'm a mature aged driver, have a track car and experience and am happy to provide proof of finances if you are an actual seller. The goal here is to be able to spend a little time with each but without all the expectation of the buyer/seller dynamic because I'm unsure of which I want (like them both for different reasons). Thanks in advance.

Perhaps an odd request but I'd like to drive both on the same day to help me make a call on which GTR I want to get into. Trying not to waste a seller/dealers time while I work out my preferences. Happy to cover your fuel costs, not looking to flog the car but would like to experience both at WOT, you can do that part if you'd prefer. R34 should ideally be 300awkw minimum, preferably 350 or so. R35 can be stock but an exhaust/Cobb would be ideal. I'm a mature aged driver, have a track car and experience and am happy to provide proof of finances if you are an actual seller. The goal here is to be able to spend a little time with each but without all the expectation of the buyer/seller dynamic because I'm unsure of which I want (like them both for different reasons). Thanks in advance.

Perfect base for a big build or restoration project. You won't find many in this sort of original condition. - 308 on Straight Gas (Air conditioning has been disconnected, belt is in the boot). - Turbo 400 - has been recently serviced, fluid dumped a few times, rather than just a single dump of the pan. Run between changes to remove as much of the old fluid as possible. Fluid looks very good. New pan gasket. - Clean straight body. Signs of minor passenger side quarter repair on the leading edge, can provide more detailed photos. One small spot of rust above the front windscreen. Evidence of minor surface rust on passenger rear quarter beneath windscreen. Car sat under a tarp for quite some time. - Interior in good condition, centre console arm rest requires retrimming. - Heavy duty radiator, trans cooler still connected. Original radiator is included and will suit reconditioning. Original radiator shroud also included. Cooling system has been flushed. - Car has original paperwork and service history. Logs appears to show 126,XXXks, inspection will tell the full story. - Brakes work, but will require attention and are not roadworthy. - Car starts, idles, and drives. - Not registered or roadworthy and will be sold as is. Inspections welcome, contact me to arrange. Will need to be outside of business hours. I am selling this on behalf of my mother in law and will try to answer questions as quickly as I can. Thanks for your patience. $10,000 Located in Wodonga.

Mmm torque. How far do you think you'll take this? 600 hp seems like a small number for that engine.

Sorry, I've missed a bit of this. What turbos? What boost? How much torque?

Pics of brake setup k thx.

Hmm OK, I don't have any issues, maybe the heel of my boot is ore grippy than yours, no problem using any pedals or heel toe etc.

Am I missing the point of that?

Car is already on max soft everything. Federal said the tyre pressures should be bang on.

What alignment settings and sway bars

Dude are you drunk lol

Good info guys, thanks

I could do it, as I have a 2 sets of wheels that when sold would likely get me to the cost of "better" wheels, but that's a lot more hassle and cost than a set of spacers, or not touching the rear track at all. Does it really matter though, whether it's through spacers or offset, if the track is increased from beyond the hub it's still more stress on the studs/hub either way. I could put an S14 rear cradle in it too, but that's getting a bit carried away.

I realise they are not even track wise but if I recall, the front is already wider than the rear, 5mm total rings a bell. So going another 5mm per side sees a 15mm total difference. Could get that back to 5mm (or whatever is original) with spacers. Can get a 5mm hub centric spacer, I wouldn't use the multifit slide all over the place ones. "Proper" bolt on spacers don't come in anything smaller than 20mm, I guess I could go 20mm in the front and 25mm in the rear. Guard clearance would be an issue then,

I think you're on a different tangent. 1) I am looking to drill a new hole for the FRONT LCA to gain some extra camber and track. 2) I am looking at using a spacer possibly, to match the REAR track width with the front. I cannot easily lengthen anything in the rear so a small spacer seemed like the best choice. 3) I am looking at rear traction rods, simply because mine are stock, just out of interest as nobody talks about them.

http://www.gktech.com/index.php/adjustable-rear-traction-rods.html Those. Bump steer correction/traction tuning in the rear. What's the issue? studs not long enough? issues centering rim to hub?

It makes sense to me to match the track if possible for balance. My only question is if a 5mm spacer poses a problem. Also, rear traction rods... nobody talks about them at all...

Also what are your thoughts on needing after market traction rods?

Camber I can sort in the rear, it has adjustable arms i can also get offset bushes to help, what I'm takling about is making sure the track is even front and back.