No Crust Racing

Busted slave cylinder, busted pedal box linkage? Have you checked the fluid level?

Oxygen sensor? Get it tuned ASAP and see what's going on.

Thanks for keeping us posted and giving us your insight, great to see some hard data getting online as it comes to light. Keep it up.

Where are the Nismo side skirts and rear pods? You're not talking about the V-Spec front lip and rear diffuser are you? Skirts and rear bar looks factory. **EDIT** Sorry should've PM'd that, not relevant to the sale really.

Thanks for finally giving us some info on what went wrong guys. Pics would be awesome too!

There's also plenty of exhaust shielding under the car also, it bends and wobbles pretty easily.

Actually that's a really good point, outer lefts are notorious as they do a lot of work.

Is it coming from the cat area? Sometimes the welds break inside the pipe and you get bits of metal caught in the cat that rattles like a mofo, better or worse depending on gas flow. The other option is to get it up on stands and just take a look. Let us know how you go.

I'd be thinking wheel or drive shaft bearing as there's not much else in that area that will make a rotational noise that you haven't already checked. My first guess was rotors but you're confident that's all good. Good luck and let us know what you find.

Sounds like your AAC valve. When I had a bung AFM in the GT-R it would rev to a certain point then cough/flutter and top out at say 2500rpm, load also caused it to do this. It idled fine though. What you're describing sounds more like an AAC valve clogged up. Very easy to clean, do a search it's been covered to death. I've done it personally when I had similar issues and it worked a treat. My idle was stuffed, all over the shop. Very common.

Scathing already posed that question more or less, read up and you can see his and my thoughts on the matter. I'm not going to lose any sleep if you happen to disagree with me lol oh n0s?! A disagreement on the intertubes?! emergency! Still hanging out for some pics and detailed info plz

And I thought "I" had time on my hands... lol I get what you're saying and agree completely though it'd be nice to know what they were doing and how they popped its cherry. For all we know it could've been failed factory component that caused it. As for my above comment, if I was in the biz of tuning cars I can't say I'd want the first blown VQ38 chalked up against my name... Stress testing or not. PICS!

I second that.... This does not bode well for Haltech's reputation...

Yeah he does as he works closely with International Motor Group who import and comply R35's There's was the one used on Aussie Top Gear last night. We were supposed to drive that on the day but it had a bolt through the one of the run flats so we took Carls car instead.

From what I've read (as I've researched this same thing myself) you should get the power you're talking about and the cooler will be fine at this power level.

That is VERY high oil temps 0_0 So it won't crank over at all? You just get the start motor solenoid click? If so then you have to start from there and see if the starter motor is seized and if you can confirm the starter motor is good then you might want to get a compression and leak down test. Sounds like some bad stuff going on inside that RB26. If it does crank but won't start then it's more likely that the excessive engine heat has caused a sensor to fail. If it's clicking a lot then it sounds like it's trying to engage the starter but doesn't have enough voltage or the starter is damaged. You mention the battery can't start the car so the issue could be electrical and starter related. Check all your fuses then try and get a proven starter. Also need more info on whether the car cranks at all or just click click clicks.

That sounds like big Carl's car, and if it is, I've driven it Gun Metal Premium R35 with the LED running lights. Personal plates?

Pics or it didn't happen...

Sounds good mate, be sure to confirm if that was the cause so this thread has an answer for anyone else searching. Better yet take a pic and show us the pipe if that is confirmed as the problem. Cheers

Boost leak shouldn't stop you revving past 4500 but stranger things have happened. What do you mean by coil socket? Do you mean the top part of the coil module or the long part that sticks into the rocker cover? Any cracks = bad but you can temporarily tape them up with elec tape (there is a thread on SAU about it, search for "damaged coils" "tape coil" or something to that effect. It's a pretty common thing to extend coil life. If it's busted bad you basically have to replace it. You can use a stock one, or a new stock set or if you have power in mind you can swap them out for a set of splitfire coils whichn even with minimal mods, do give a power gain. Cheers

Certainly could be a coil, if you've got coil issues fix them ASAP. TPS = throttle position sensors. It sits on the side of the throttle body. If it's misaligned or damaged it will cause all sorts of weirdness, Coils sound like a good starting point though if you know you have a damaged one. Good luck and let us know how you go.

Mate I asked this exact same question, have a read through this. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/De....html&hl=gt

I'd be going for AFM or TPS check'em both and let us know how you go.

Hah, I had a Celica back in the day too and gave it a very hard time, didn't die. I'm not saying Skylines are like glass I'm just saying that I preferred to be kind to mine 95% of the time and that there are some things you should avoid doing all day every day and when cold if you want your engine/turbo gearbox/clutch etc to live longer.

Always play it safe unless you have deep pockets and like having your car off the road. There is no hard and fast rule for how hard and how long you can push an engine. The rev limiter is to prevent catastrophic failure and excessive wear but hitting it constantly will see your engine life shortened dramatically. You're not making power that high in the rev range anyway, check figures on peak power and torque, they're not at 7000 rpm so why bother. Don't boost the car or rev it hard or put it under high load( low speeds and high gears etc) until it's warm, the easiest way to warm it up is drive it gently until the temp comes up, not by sitting in your garage idling for long periods, this will only heat up the water and oil but the gearbox/diff, rotating assemblies etc. Putting your foot flat to the floor is fine once the car is fully warmed up but again, be mindful of the rev's as excessive rev's will cause excessive damage it's that simple. If I remember correctly, the redline on an R33 is 7000, for me that meant my Series II rarely seen above 6500 or so but that's personal preference. Yes I hit the limiter a few times but it was on rare occasions and my car still had even compression when I sold it after 2yrs of owning it, same goes for my GT-R, it rarely seen anything above 7500 rpm as it went red at 8000. The harder you drive it, the faster it will wear out. You can't avoid an engine wearing out but you can prolong the inevitable while still having fun. It's also important to keep on top of basic servicing. Oil, oil filter, air filter and spark plugs go a long way. I chose to replace the oil and oil filter every 5000k's. The air filter was a re-usable type so it was washed and cleaned at the same time and the spark plugs were iridium so were checked and replaced as necessary. You don't have to spend a shit load on oil on a low power car or one that is receiving new oil and filter every 5000 k's. Enjoy your car and remember to keep the race driving for the track. Cheers