No Crust Racing

What's the go with the replies in a thead being listed in short form down the bottom now? I hate that. How do I turn it off.

No worries mate, like I said... I'm all heart

Ahh thanks for clarifying

Is that the case Nismoid? I thought it was the comp wheels letting go that allowed the engine to ingest ceramic dust? Do they suck in junk from the exhaust wheel letting go via back pressure? Yeah what Nismoid said is accurate. They're newer so will last longer but should still be treated with the same respect. They'll spool a bit quicker being BB but they're still ceramic.

I'm aware that there are a few silvers in the R34 range but does anyone have pics showing the clear differences? From what I can tell there's 3 different Silvers across the range. KR4 - Sonic Silver KV2 - Athlete Silver WV2 - Sparkling Silver Does anyone have images clearly showing those colours? Cheers

I did this back when I had my GT-R, it got me out of trouble for a few weeks while I sourced a pair of AFM's, I bought a pair as they were matched and funnily enough the other stocker died not much later so I was glad I had the pair. This works but for how long comes down to many other factors.

When you pull the turbo's check the comp wheels, if they are stuffed then a compression and leak down test is a must. HKS GT-SS's or Garrett 2860R-7's (also R34 GT-R N1's) are what you want if you're staying on standard internals. Either of these wcan pull up to 330awkw's with the right supporting mods. 300awkw's is easily achievable on each with the right mods too. An even cheaper option is to go with R34 GT-R turbo's they're still ceramic but are ball bearing and cam be had dirt cheap from someone upgrading. You can easily pull 250awkw's on these with safe boost levels. Good luck mate and let us know how you go. Pics are always good too. Cheers

LoL no shit Baron I didn't expect to be using those wheels it was just reading about them that gave me the idea. I'm well aware of their width and usability. I've worded Kris up to hook me up when he's next over that way, if you're heading to the Nismo Festival you can hook me up too if Kris doesn't go I'd love one for the lounge room!

lol nice one, never thought about that. Question stems from Kris' post over at GTRblog about hooking up with dirt cheap SuperGT wheels.

Look if the going get's tough Baron, I'm willing to let you keep it at my place for a while. I'll even drive it for you occasionally to keep it in good nick I'm so selfless... There's no doubt that a car in this condition (Auction grade 4.5 or so by the looks of it) is definitely worth the money. Anyone looking for an R34 GT-R at the moment will be hard up to get a car with these mods in this condition for this money with the Yen the way it is. You're selling a couple years too soon for me Baron, I've got all my cash tied up in the house at the moment and swore I'd never finance a toy car again after the R33 GT-R. Good luck though!

Hmm, interesting, thanks for the info Baron. I'll no doubt be getting more info from you down the track when I get my 34 Cheers Dan

Has anyone here done the conversion from a standard 5 stud hub to a racing wheel style centre hub? Hard? Expensive? I'm not 100% on the terminology which is why my search didn't get many results. Cheers

When I watched mine being done the machine just stopped when it was full.

If it says direct fit then it's likely to be the case as the seller would have a stack of people sending them back if they required modification. BUT it's always best to do your homework. Contact the seller and directly ask if they require ANY modifications and if there are clear installation instructions etc. You might also ring some shops known for working on RB's and ask them if they've ever fitted a set or know of a good direct fit option etc. Good luck

When I had mine done there was no mention on how much gas was required. Any aircon place will just charge a set fee regardless of how much is required. If you absolutely have to know then give a local Nissan dealership a call, they have more info on Skylines than they let on.

Coils are a possibility, as are plugs and the AFM. It could also have an issue with the Crank Angle Sensor or be a combination of many things. Bad idle can be caused by the AAC valve and the restriction in boost is the default behaviour in 33's, not sure about 34's. In a 33 you can bypass the dual stage solenoid (this is a factory part, not sure of the one you were talking about is factory or aftermarket). While sorting issues remove the r32 actuator, it's another variable. Do you have a mate with a 34? If so try his coils and if there's no change try his AFM as well. Also check your plugs for obvious issues. Start somewhere and start taking notes, let us know how you go. Trust us when we say it wont be anywhere near as serious as you might think it is.

Contact these guys. http://www.internationalmotorgroup.com.au/ they don't 'rent' them directly but they have a lot of them, including demo car and you might be able to arrange something with them. Ross is a friendly and helpful guy and it cant hurt to ask. Cheers and good luck. If you get it sorted this forum demands pics of the day

I just read my post, nice typos lol woops. Anyway, If it's not clicking/engaging then you'll likely need an air-con place to check it out. Ask a few mates see if they know or can recommend anyone and always ask for a quote before any work takes place. Be sure to clarify if the quote is free also. Good luck,

Does sound a little low, but as you said if their dyno is low then etc etc. 5% out at 300kWs is 15kW difference. Let us know how you go.

LoL, the tailshaft? There's nothing else in that area turning that's exposed. Good to hear it's sorted

Do you mean there was shielding rubbing on the turbo housing?

I guessed from the laggy comment he meant upgraded but that's a good point of distinction.

Ahh good stuff. Let us know what they find. Hp[efully the pressure plate hasn't collapsed or something.

I get ya and I'm not saying it's THE answer, just something to check. I'm surprised a non=race skyline could even drink that much fuel. Start with the basics and see how you go. Throwing on new turbos without getting a tune is not the most ideal situation anyway.

If there's no click from the engine and noticable jump in the engine vibration from the compressor engaging then the compressor might be at fault. The other common is the blend door being broken (sits in behind the centre stack and to the left of the driver side foot well) You can test it by quite easily by adjusting the settings and seeing if the door is moving. They sometimes pop of the ever that actuates them and sometimes they are busted. See how you go and let us know.