No Crust Racing

Still got it?

Kepp us posted mate and good luck!

Ahh sweet as, let us know how you go.

This is kind of my point also, though I didn't have the technical understanding, as I was pointing out that oil-control had been listed as an issue and that comes down to the builder. I still think he's at fault here.

Yep tight belt will cause that or the AC comp has a failing bearing. The tight belt could cause this noise as well though and could also cause the bearing to fail if you leave it too long. Keep fiddling, you're getting somewhere

I think he means the clamp on the radiator hose. You should avoid driving it if you can, the possible damage from exces heat is not worth it.

So you know there was an oil control issue but do you know what caused it? Shouldn't the builder have been checking such things as he went along?

Link?

Good luck and let us know how you go.

Hmm, I thought the 7's were, they're the one's always mentioned. Anyone confirm this?

Mine took a whole gallon bottle and then a bit more using a pump bottle and the filler hole. I let mine drain overnight.

You should try and tension it evenly at all corners. Is the cover warped or something? Are they the standard screws holding it in place? You shouldn't have anything fouling on the cover. The noise you describe sounds more like bearing stress than contact with the belts but contact is much more likely/ Sure there's no marks inside the cover anywhere? Le us know how you go.

Post turbo specs and dyno sheet

Free labour FTW Post results when you're done.

Try not to drive it too much if you can avoid it. I might be being overly cautious but that's my style

Roger

Then as I understand it, the stock item is not required, but if it's not broke don't fix it. Why upset a happy system

Depends on the controller. The serious electronic ones have their own solenoid. If you're just using a bleed style one then the solenoid is still required... I think

That's the one. Check the yellow marker to see if it still has the restrictor

Are you tightening the timing belt cover evenly when you're putting it on? Does it do it with the cover sitting on but only very light tightened up?

Call Ben at RacePace Get it tuned FTW y0 lol

+1 You can do it on 2k if you buy second hand and the labour yourself but the cost to go new is not all that much higher. N1's, 2860-7's or, GT-SS's is what you're after. R31Nismoid: What are the -9's? They a direct stock replacement or something while the -7's are the GT-SS'ish equivalent?

Is it running on 5 or something? The WRX sound part makes me think it's not firing all 6? Keen to see this one resolved. Keep us posted

Keep us posted, I'm keen to hear what this was in the end.

My understanding was the car had to be serviced for compliance but only basic items like oil, oil filter and air filter. It should list this on your compliance paperwork. Other things you can check/change are diff and box oil, brake, clutch and power steering, and hicas fluid and of course coolant. If any of them are dirty or you can't find history of them being done then do so for safety, cheap insurance and then you know where you're at with each. Diff fluid will be whatever is recommended factory, most places like repco can tell you this. Same for brake, clutch, power steer and hicas, gearbox you might want to get something slightly better than factory if you have intentions of modifying, there are a million threads on what to use on here so it will come down to personal choie. I went with redline lightweight shockproof. It's expensive but the bo was nicer, BUT there is also a lot to be said about using that so do some research and go with what you like.