No Crust Racing

Mate I think the For Sale rules say something about listing a price for starters.

No price? Must be giving it away... How much lol

PM Sent

This was a gift a while back. It's a DVP-NS50P and has been removed from the box, turned on once to see it played a DVD and put back in the box. Has all original packaging and is in brand new condition. More details here http://b2b.sony.com/Solutions/product-deta...-yf-dnser-27663 $50 ono Pickup preferred but postage can be arranged at buyers expense.

All SS parts came off at around the 45,000k mark. All standard factory items. Now I have no idea what this stuff is worth so will just slap some prices on and we can go from there. All listed as ONO postage is not included where applicable (Happy to post items not labeled pickup). **R33** Indicator Stalk (Not for cars with Foglights) -$20 Wiper Stalk (Not for cars with rear wiper) - $20 Both for $35 **VY II SS** Exhaust manifolds with shields - $50 Pickup Cats and connecting pipes - $50 Pickup Rolled Chrome Tips - $30 MAF Pipe - $5 or take it free with anything else. The lot for $120 If necessary I can get pics of things as required.

This really comes down to personal choice and what you're trying to achieve with the car. I had the same size wheels and tyres and I opted for -1.5-2 (adjustable up to -4) degrees camber and some very slight flaring. This gave me enough camber for higher speed turns but didn't destroy tyres 'too' quickly. If you do go the roll/flare route get a decent panel shop to do it as the quarter panel sheets join under the lip of the guard and it's also very easy to crack the paint on the lip inside and also where the quard folds in under the wheel arch. Good luck

Interesting... Did he give a reason?

Lucky bugger. By the way, that article of mine you posted is a bit old now. This is newer and has more current images etc. http://www.themotorreport.com.au/16474/200...ially-revealed/

+1 What does that graph tell us...

Old hoses become brittle and do not flex enough to seal. So new hoses might be the go. Natrad should have told you this though? Usually they jump at the chance to sell you more shit. Replace the hose and the clamp, cheap as chips, be sure to clean the connecting pipe on the engine side. Also, while you have that pipe off you can check the thermostat for jamming. Good luck and let us know how you go.

Sounds like I was on the right track then, good to know

Check this out, sweet as! http://www.themotorreport.com.au/16524/200...-r-specv-video/

Check it! GT-R SpecV Video

+1 That's everything I was going to say on the matter It's as though you took the words right out of my mouth... it must have been while you were..... never mind. k thx

That's an interesting one. Would need to hear the sound but for the sake of it inspect the pedal box (the assemnbly that the pedal is connected to) and check the slave cylinder for leaks. What 'kind' of sound is it? A squeek? A rattle? a loud bang? a deeper thud? If you can't pinpoint it at the pedal box or the slave cylinder then you'll probably have to get it inspected at the very least.

I have nothing worthy to add to this thread by the topic caught my eye and now I want footage. This is exactly the kind of stuff I want do when I buy my 34 down the track. Sometimes I wish I was a bit stupider with my finances and had just kept the R33 GT-R! Footage or pics plz PM is fine as not to disrupt this thread.

Hmm, maybe not quite in that order but basically you're on the right track. For power try air filter and exhaust for starters. You have to think carefully about where you want to go because the fuel pump, injectors, turbo and fmic upgrade are all dependent on power figures you're aiming for. You can fit the fuel pump and the fmic without getting a tune but you wont see much gain (as they are supporting mods) unless you add some more boost on the stock turbo. Turbo and injectors requires tune and that's when you'll see some serious power. Work out your power goal first then buy/build accordingly. The Turbo, injectors and tune really need to be done all at once. The rest you can do without upsetting existing systems too much. Don't forget that you may need a clutch and you'll probably want better suspension and brakes also. Have a look through the forums as there's a boatload of R32 lovers here all who have done the same things you're talking about. Check the RB20DET turbo thread for turbo options. Cheers

Yep, worn clutch plate will see slipping under load like Boostin said. If there's an issue with another portion of the clutch system then the symptoms will be different. A worn pedal box can make a racket, a worn slave cylinder can also make a racket. Give us a bit more of an idea of what's going on.

Has to be an electrical fault to match what you're saying. If it was gearing related it would be constant. As for what to check I honestly have no idea. If the R34 has an electric component to the speedo, and you will have to remove the dash and follow cables/wires to the box and engine bay, start with those. Good luck and let us know how you go.

Forget gasket goo. Start calling some basic places like Repco, someone will have an OEM replacement gasket for it. Call any of the shops that work on Skylines and they will hook you up.

Hah, from a Kia? Crazy stuff but well done. As for them not ordering parts, that's a bit harsh =\

unlucky...

Aww my gawd bro Nice plates

You don't need to go coilovers if you just want the car lowered. You can just as easily, and cheaper too, get new shocks/springs that will give you the height you want and will likely provide a better ride. Plus they will be matched so wont kill the bump stops on the shocks and use up all the travel, like what will happen with lowered springs in standard shocks. You can also get a set of plain old Bilstiens or something and have circlip grooves machined into them for SFA like I did, instant preset height adjustment of the spring base. Easy Good luck mate.

Check your AFM or CAS