No Crust Racing

Always play it safe unless you have deep pockets and like having your car off the road. There is no hard and fast rule for how hard and how long you can push an engine. The rev limiter is to prevent catastrophic failure and excessive wear but hitting it constantly will see your engine life shortened dramatically. You're not making power that high in the rev range anyway, check figures on peak power and torque, they're not at 7000 rpm so why bother. Don't boost the car or rev it hard or put it under high load( low speeds and high gears etc) until it's warm, the easiest way to warm it up is drive it gently until the temp comes up, not by sitting in your garage idling for long periods, this will only heat up the water and oil but the gearbox/diff, rotating assemblies etc. Putting your foot flat to the floor is fine once the car is fully warmed up but again, be mindful of the rev's as excessive rev's will cause excessive damage it's that simple. If I remember correctly, the redline on an R33 is 7000, for me that meant my Series II rarely seen above 6500 or so but that's personal preference. Yes I hit the limiter a few times but it was on rare occasions and my car still had even compression when I sold it after 2yrs of owning it, same goes for my GT-R, it rarely seen anything above 7500 rpm as it went red at 8000. The harder you drive it, the faster it will wear out. You can't avoid an engine wearing out but you can prolong the inevitable while still having fun. It's also important to keep on top of basic servicing. Oil, oil filter, air filter and spark plugs go a long way. I chose to replace the oil and oil filter every 5000k's. The air filter was a re-usable type so it was washed and cleaned at the same time and the spark plugs were iridium so were checked and replaced as necessary. You don't have to spend a shit load on oil on a low power car or one that is receiving new oil and filter every 5000 k's. Enjoy your car and remember to keep the race driving for the track. Cheers

Add a price or watch this get deleted quick smart Good luck with the sale mate. Looks clean.

If you've got engine wear and a dying turbo then tread carefully. Failure of either could cause some serious damage to the rest of the engine. If you have track aspirations then at the very least you're going to want a healthy standard engine in there. Do some reading on what power you can get from your intended setup and if it's not enough the consider having a rebuild done with upgraded internals. A good rule of thumb is to build the engine stronger than what you want from it to give you some head room to grow and to protect the engine. Good luck

There's not much to look at in the system. Check the boots on the rack and if they're bulging with fluid they you have a rack leak which when put under pressure (when you turn the wheel) will push the fluid into the boots rather than through the rack giving it a heavy feel. You could have air locks in your system and the fluid could be low or the pump stuffed. Start with fluid levels, check the boots and you'll at least have some idea of what's going on. The pump will normally make horrible noises as they start to go and when they let go. If you're having no luck or are not into DIY stuff any power steer place will sort it for you. But be mindful that power steering can run into dollars depending on the issue. Can't hurt to have a look yourself and maybe get a 2nd opinion from a more knowledgeable mate so that if you do have to go to a place you wont get ripped off. Good luck and let us know how you go.

Low compression certainly indicates wear. Ultimately it will result in less power, increased consumption, poor running and eventually a busted engine. How bad it gets is a mixed bag of factors. Some engines go for ever with a low cylinder or two and make OK power. Depends what you want from the engine, how hard you drive, what your plans are etc etc. Engines are always wearing out, that's the nature of the beast. Weigh up what you want from the car, how you're set for finances and go from there. You're not going to hurt the car by driving it as it is but if you flog it constantly you will accelerate the wear and possibly cause damage from failure down the track.

White "smoke" is likely oil burning. But steam is water. So if you've got excessive amounts of either coming out the pipe you need to find what and where it's leaking. Get your head in the engine bay and start checking for obvious leaks. Check water and Oil levels and continue to monitor them. Go from there and good luck.

Good question, I'm not 100% on that one so best to cool a radiator joint and ask them. Giving a workshop a call is no big deal and they're usually more than happy to assist.

So long as you put the right mix of coolant back in and there's no leaks you should be fine. If any of the internal galleries or the radiator etc have suffered badly from rust then you may have some rust still in the system but the coolant should keep it in check. If in a few weeks after refilling with coolant the fluid goes brown again you may need to flush it all fully again. Do it the first time and see how you go.

Rubbing shoulders with the stars hey, nice work I felt privileged just to meet V35 Skyline and R35 GT-R owner Big Carl lol

Good to hear, it's always nice when a celebrity is still down to earth and just a nice person in general. Smart move to be nice to the guy wiring your car up

What the heck http://www.themotorreport.com.au/10500/lov...ectorial-debut/

Disconnect both hoses from the radiator and use a hose to flush water back and forth through the block, using both radiator hoses. Keep at it til she runs clear then let it sit for a while draining out the water so you're not diluting your coolant mix too much when it goes back in. I can't remember if the thermostat blocks the water flow extensively in the RB25 as it's been ages since I had one. Just see how you go. If you're going from the thermostat side and the water ain't coming out the other pipe then you may need to remove the thermostat also. Good chance to do the radiator at the same time. For a quick confirmation, give a local radiator/coolant specialist a buzz and make sure you're happy with the direction you're going to take. It's your car in the end. Good luck

Get your gaskets sorted pronto. Leaks will cause vacuum issues which will mean idle, WOT and boost problems. Keep us posted and good luck.

Brokaz: thanks for the feedback, I'll keep that in mind for next time. Hard to really jazz up a brief stint behind the wheel at predominantly legal speeds in a privately owned car. Thought it best to just tell it like it was rather than try and make it out to be something it wasn't. Scathing: Great image, I love it lol Sewid: Thanks for clarification, I was a bit curious about that when Carl mentioned it but he assured me it was a Nismo item so we went with it. Keep up the good work over at GTR Blog too, I'm loving it.

Mate check my thread here, it's got loads of good info on how to proceed. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/De...in-t236467.html

Could be the boost controller and given you have an EBC you can test that pretty easily once you get the HKS unit installed. Otherwise you could be having an issue with the wastegate actuator and have you checked to make sure the boost restrictor has been removed? Good luck and be sure to let us know what you find for future reference. Cheers

It will be a fairly simple leak mate. Get a friend to jump in and flick the switch while you watch for leaks. It should be pretty obvious pretty quickly. If it's the hose just replace it, if it's the tank then patch it up with a waterproof sealant while you find a replacement tank. If it's not leaking all the time then it's more likely the hose. Good luck and be sure to reply and let us know what it was so anyone searching can find this thread in the future

+1 for switch issues.

What they said but if you find it's missing then you will need to replace the stalk. This is common on R33's for both rear wipers and fog lights, stalks are swapped out during the import/compliance process and replaced with incorrect ones. It's a simple job and costs SFA for the stalks.

Phew, had me worried for a minute there

R35 GT-R Test Drive

Sweet. Sorry to detract from the sale but if you've got some pics of in it in the sun either post them up here or PM me Cheers

Is that some kind of colour I've never heard of or is it just midnight purple? Good luck with the sale

Congrats Good to see someone from SAU making off with some loot. Cheers Dan

That was exactly what I was after. Sweet as I've hit R31Nismoid up to add this to the RB26 portion of the Force Induction FAQ's