pixel8r

PRICE DROP $12,900. I want it sold.

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Why import one? There are plenty of these in Australia already and you'll have more guarantees if you buy one off someone on here. Most people go for an import when they're after something more unique or if they want to save money. On a s2 I doubt you'd save much since there are so many around and the local prices are pretty low already. The only part you save on when importing is the actual price of the car in japan. To give you an example, a car that costs $17000 to import may only cost $5000 in japan, so even if you get a cheap one in japan you may only save yourself $1000 or so maximum, not really worth it if you ask me - compared to seeing, inspecting, and test-driving one over here. It made sense to import them when there wasn't many here and you may still get a good deal on a newish M35 if you import one...but 14k will easily get you a good series 2 auto. to answer the other point, iron chef imports are good, very honest/reliable from what I've heard. But yeah, have a good look around on carsales and on the for sale thread in this forum - I think you'll find what you need already in Australia.

Mine now has 138000 on the clock and the standard turbo is working fine. I guess the issue is that you dont know how the car was treated in japan or if it was modified but then returned to stock before shipping over here. It is a bit of an unknown but as mentioned if you budget enough for a replacement then what's the worry? Adding a couple grand extra is still cheaper than a PM35 and once replaced the turbo should never need replacing again. Further, if you do spend nearer the $2k mark to replace the turbo, you will come out of it with a much better turbo than stock so its not all bad news

carsales ad is now active. CLICK HERE

Also, no swaps. Thanks.

um, sorry, but if you're worrying about the health of your turbo while your wife is about to give birth then there is something wrong with you. How about just turn the car off and go?? Seriously, turning it off while the turbo is hot just once will not harm it. Look after it when you can, of course, but if you have an emergency situation arise where you need to stop the car and exit suddenly, the turbo needn't become a factor for you to think about. it'll be fine, really.

sorry, it has done 138,000 kms. I have the auction papers which confirm the kms are genuine. I meant to include the link to the carsales ad but it hasn't been activated yet (only listed today).

I have owned this car since it was imported in October 2008. The car has been well maintained, serviced every 10,000 kms as per manufacturer's schedule, only used fully synthetic oils and only run on premium fuels. All work has been carried out by professional and reputable workshops who specialise in imported/turbo cars. Specs: 2003 Nissan Stagea 250T RS4. AWD, 2.5L V6 Turbo 206kw and 407N-m, 5sp auto with tiptronic, ETC (Electronic Throttle Control), Climate control A/C, electric mirrors, remote central locking, immobilizer. It features an aftermarket stereo (VDO Dayton unit) that can take MP3 CD, USB, SD and can play all major formats including MP3, WMA and OGG. It also supports bluetooth for hands-free mobile calling if your mobile phone supports bluetooth. No other modifications have been done, making this either an ideal family car or alternatively a clean slate for mods. Photos below: Price is $13,900 negotiable. Inspections welcome. PM me for more details.

yes. Again, there are no issues with this car. Servicing is up to date. Rego until April 2011. I do want this car gone - so please make an offer.

2003 M35 - just car - ~$780 full comp with rating 1 protection. I'm 29, my wife is 26.

1. satgea? unsure. stagea? yes. 2. braking could be better. handling is pretty good for a wagon, but plenty of room for improvement there also. 3. rust under passenger mirror. otherwise, no. 4. you may have trouble with this. ATTESA can be a bit fussy. just put the same size on all 4 - surely that's not too big a limitation.

Last night I thought I'd go and adjust my headlight beams so they are level...and noticed that the headlight connectors are burnt and there is a slight electrical burning smell once I removed the plastic headlight covers (ie. the wiring covers). Its the same on both headlights, although both headlights are still working and appear to be ok (as bright as stagea headlights get...which isn't great but good enough I guess). The headlights are both H1 55W 12V so no over-voltage or anything like that. The right headlight was replaced only a month or 2 ago and at the time I also replaced the connector (chopped the wire, and re-crimped a new connector on) - yet it seems to be getting burnt again. 1. is it normal? safe to leave it? 2. why does it happen? 3. how to fix? I'm thinking of just taking it to an auto-electrician...but want some advice first.

I've owned both. Had a C34 (s2) for 2 years and now have owned a M35 for just over 2 years. Nothing wrong with either really, so neither is a bad car or anything like that. I say that because I was perfectly happy with my C34 while I owned it. Its just that after driving an M35 I really couldn't go back. The M35 does have its flaws as well and there are 1 or 2 things I'd prefer from the C34 - eg. the cable throttle (as mentioned the M35 is drive-by-wire and the computer tends to restrict the throttle opening under 3000rpm - probably to protect the drivetrain and also give better economy). But on the whole the M35 is a better car in almost every way. The appearance is the main differentiator between whether people prefer the M35 or C34. For someone new to stageas you may think both are a bit ugly, but in either case I say the looks do grow on you. I used to think M35's were ugly but its not until you see one "in the flesh" that you can really appreciate how nice they look. At the end of the day, its all about preference. M35 will cost you a little more to own, but these cars are reliable enough that the extra cost of parts will rarely be felt (hopefully never). Over the 2 years I've owned mine, I've had to replace a few things, and of those, the only thing that would've been cheaper on the C34 was a wheel bearing - otherwise, its not as big a deal as everyone says. Servicing costs no different. Insurance is also not much different (for me it was the same). Still, the C34 was a nice car too. My opinion is that if you want more of a skyline/sports feel (eg. less comfort, more aftermarket options), go the C34, but if you want a more refined and luxurious ride, look at the M35. Despite the extra refinement and luxury, the M35 is faster, and rides/handles better than the C34. Drive both, then decide

Do you have an oiled air filter (ie. K&N) ? I've had an AFM pack up because of that. Are you sure the AFM is faulty? Try taking it out and running metho or contact cleaner over the wires that hang down inside where the air goes through (dont open up the electrics part!!) then let it dry completely and put it back in the car. Make sure not to touch any of the contacts inside, only use contact cleaner spray on them, nothing else. Sometimes the sensor gets coated in oil from the air filter or other things that made it through the filter and it wont work as well. contact cleaner or methylated spirits should fix it up.

I thought all stageas came with XENON headlights out of the factory...making it ok for stageas to get a HID conversion if compliance have replaced them with halogens...??

I was sure they were all the same system (common to all stageas since s1)... Yes it is hydraulic but also uses clutch packs... Just seems odd that they'd change it in 2004 when few other Nissans were even using this system at the time (unless you include nissan suv's which use a variation of ATTESA).

maybe just tune it with a fair amount of tolerance...and then you'll be fine. Manufacturers tune their cars to run rich for a reason...and whilst there is still plenty of leeway to lean it out a bit and still have a "safe" tune, don't be tempted to overdo it. Tune for a 40deg day with aircon on and 95octane fuel - you could be planning a drive in the country (ie. no 98octane fuel available) over summer - who knows?

sounds like it could've been a dodgy pump reading. I'm certain its 68L. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bu...n-C-t92065.html

If you want a good auto box, go with the s2 stagea and get a MV automatics shift kit. From 2 years of experience driving a s2, I can tell you the shift kit was the best mod I did. If you're coming from an R33 you'll love the fact that the s2 stagea shares a lot of skyline bits and tuning potential. Stageas dont drive like a commodore or falcon wagon. Most people who have driven mine have commented that it just doesn't feel like a wagon. I'd say go for an M35, but they are a different car again and aimed at a different market to the s1/s2. More comfortable and more luxury, but then the parts are rarer etc.

s1 & s2 (yours) is 68L. M35 is 80L.

I was the one who started that thread... I went with Instant Windscreens. $450 fitted - with the tint strip at the top and they only took 2 business days to come out and fit it. Not bad service considering the rarity of these cars. O'Briens were more expensive and didn't have the tint strip.

First accident for my M35 - my wife managed to collect a pole while reversing out of a carpark. Damage is only minor thankfully, so should get away with just replacing one panel. Here's what it looks like now: I'm in Adelaide, SA. Anyone know where I could get a replacement panel from? If I could get one in the factory silver this would obviously be best. Or is it worth trying to take it to a crash repair shop? Unfortunately my insurance excess is $1200 so I doubt its worth going through insurance. I've been thinking of altering this because my premium has dropped by almost $150 in the past year - which means I could probably keep it the same and have a lower excess. Just a shame that I didn't get onto that sooner

Your times are pretty close to what I would expect. For those interested, the kerb weight of the car is 1680kg - i'm not sure if the iphone app wants the weight including the driver or not. The weight probably doesn't affect the timing calcs however - it would be there for the kw/hp calculation. So if we assume around 6.5-6.8s 0-100km/h, does anyone have access to a VE sportwagon SS to try the same test in it? can probably find this sort of info on the net, although unless you do consecutive runs in both cars with the same conditions and same driver, its never going to be scientific anyway. And this thread is here because the article that claimed to do this scientific test has clearly incorrect results. To put it another way, has anyone got evidence of the SS sportwagon doing 0-100km/h in less than 6.5s? and no, that article doesn't count. I would be very surprised if the v8 was slower.

well I cant see either way doing any harm or providing any (measurable) benefit. which is why I say just leave it in drive and worry about more important things. If your auto is going to break, it isn't going to be because you switched to neutral and back a couple of times, nor are the clutch packs going to wear out because you left it in drive while stationary. On the other hand, any fuel savings from putting the car in neutral would be less than 10c when it came time to refuel...and even that is being generous. Cars dont use that much fuel when idle. Its the stopping and starting that uses the fuel, not the time spent sitting stationary (unless of course you're stationary for 30 mins or something, in which case its bad for the car to be idling for that long anyway, no matter whether its in neutral or drive). Much ado about nothing really...