Simon-S14

I hope you learn English in a hurry...

do a search for the differences between neo and r33 version

yeah i see what you mean, as there is less air flow aiding you. other thing to remember tho is that there isnt as much load on the engine in 1st or 2nd as there is in 3rd and 4th... more load = more heat... and so forth

im never doing 1st gear stuff... even in motorkana's i wouldnt be doing 1st. but yeah doesnt matter what speeds, it holds temps just fine! then again... im not pushing 700hp like some GTR's s that may be a different comparison

my post wasnt directed at you champ

do it enough times and you'll be a pro also.... i had my car dyno'ed a while ago and had missfire issues... by the time we sorted it out i had the plugs out and back in 3 times in that single day. seriously its not that hard once you have the right tools in front of you.

f**k that its an *R*32 for a reason... it wants an RB in it i got this SR cheap for my KE70 daily... but it seems that i should have gone with my first thoughts and put a 4age in it (even if they are more expensive for an older motor with less power and a shitty EFI system)

i run a 19 row core, with a themro stat, in front of rad, no ductiing, Motor pushing 280 rwkw and with oil and water temp guages, oil temp doesnt see over 100 degrees, EVER, water temp hovers around 88 degrees. this is a car that is drifted, and well.

wobble extension bar is your friend

GAY someone kick me in the head... why did i buy an SR again?!?!

the igniter is actually built into the coil pack not the ecu. A series 1 or even a remapped RB20 ecu will run a Series 2 motor no worries.

well its defo injectors 2 and 4 that are stuck.... took all the plugs out and crank it over and fuel comes out of 1 and 3 but not the others, have tested the plugs on 2 and 4 with a spare injector and they pulse. So.. whats the best way to take the rail out of an SR?

cheers for that, im in adelaide sadly so i cant take you up on the offer. I think im going to go with the tried and tested method of running it and unplugging an injector one at a time til i find the ones that arnt firing.

if you read above i have eliminated most of your suggestionms but thanks for helping out anyway. ive come to the conclusion that the injectors are f**ked... it runs on 2-3 cylns now after tapping the side of the injectors with something solid.

i do that often

1+ hours to change plugs??? wtf are you guys on? takes me 20 mins max, and yes i have a coil pack cover on, still with cross over pipe etc. I run coppers, NEVER had a prob with them much prefer paying SFA for a plug rather then 120+ for 6 of them...

Keep in mind i have no idea what the f**k you are saying so i will try my best. you will need an R200 Long Nose Diff, the R31 coupe comes with them stock im pretty sure. this diff has the same sized crownwheel (internals) as the R32/33/34 diff's so yes it will be strong enough. as for ratio, get a 4.1, this is what the R33 has stock and since you are fitting the 33 motor and box, you'll essentially have the same drivetrain as a 33.

def not auto ecu related... i just went out to the shed then and cranked it over and it acctually fired this time... i thought wtf. took all the plugs out and found 2 wet and two dry plugs, plugs were all f**ked and worn out so replaced with new ones and it fired up this time!! didnt run too well tho as its running on either 2 or 3 cylns... signs are all pointing towards seised injectors now

yeah i am, i shall have a look at the wiring diagram and suss it out.

the gearbox wiring loom is part of the alternator/starter loom, and the plugs dont match the box im using so nothing is plugged up, regardless, the box loom doesnt get to the ecu loom in any way so the ecu doesnt know anything about the box....

im beginning to think paul is on the right track, or its something far more sinister like f**ked plugs or seised injectors. this motor has been sitting around for a while. Car is a KE70, its a S14 VVT SR20DE, mounted on S14 crossmember in the KE, was auto but i put an RB20 box with SR belhousing behind it along with SR flywheel and clutch assy. VB: coil firing order is detirmined by the ecu, on the wiring side of things i just need to power up the eccs relay and the injectors and then the ecu takes care of itself. as i mentioned i check the timing with a gun and number 1 is firing when it is suppose to. no pics yet but will soon

Hey all. I havent had this SR running before as ive just put it into my KE... and i'm pretty sure ive wired everything correcttly and it still wont start. It has compression, Timing is correct, spark, power to the coil, power to injectors, its got fuel in the rail and the injectors are pulsing while cranking. (checked with node light) So im kinda stumped as to what it could be. I dont think its a bad ECU since ive got spark and injector pulsing... if the ecu was cooked i woulnt have this. only other thing i can think that might cause a prob is the fact its an Auto motor and ecu converted to manual... would the ecu need to be wired any differently? any suggestions?

most mainstream tyre shops should be able to stock them, but if your looking for a cheap alternative, then head down to your local import wrecker and get a couple for SFA

Hey guys What tie rods are shorter then S13/14 yet fit into a nissan rack? anyone got any ideas at all? Cheers Simon

they are Final Konnextion skirts... no one sells them in Oz i dont think. I quite like them myself! never been able to find any more tho