Simon-S14

not really that useles... any one could do it.. even for a street car if you coulfd put up with the harshness

As many of you know. when you lower your nissan excessivly at the rear strange things happen to the geometrys.. also the driveshafts run at bad angles leaking to breakages and the handling of the car starts to go backwards. Most ppl will tell you to raise the car.. but wheres the fun in that! Anyway what you CAN do is correct the roll centre at the rear by raising the subframe up into the body by half an inch and effectibly flush mounting it. this way you can have a lowered car and correct the roll centre back to where nissan intended (somewhat). If your running the traditional style alloy cradle bushes or pineapples on top of the subframe all round you have actually made things WORSE by lowering the subframe. sure in the case of alloy cradle locks its only 10mm but still.. its not an improvement. I'll show you what i did by myself in my garage. pretty much done for a total cost of $120. that was to pay for the new bushes. everything else i did myself. THE PROCESS Start by ripping out the entire subframe.. with diff, arms and everything still attached.. all i took off was calipers and left them attached to brake lines to save bleeding brakes. i cable tied these in place. Once the rear cradle is out... strip it down bare. remove everything til its just a bare cradle.. then go give it a wash with soapy water, degreaser and leave it in the sun to dry. then chuck it on the bench to start work, Start with bracing the subframe... its a good idea to do this while its out as they are reknown for cracking the lower control arm mounts when tracked. I went a little over the top and bracked areas where i saw fit... do what you want in this area. In this pic i braced the toe arm mounts together, cusco make a toe arm brace.. but why pay money when some steel and welding can do it for nothing. It has also created a new jacking point more rearward of the car for me. this is 50mmX6mm flat bar btw. middle re-enforcement here i have used a small amount of flat and encased the mount for the rear LCA. and otherside I chose to weld these triangle sections in... its not a known weak spot on the subframe but i had the materials, time and thought why not. Both sides Next up is getting the stock rubber bushes out... this is a prick of a job and there are several ways to do it... the easiest and messiest way is to use an oxy and melt the rubber out and then an air saw to cut the sleve on the side to allow it to fall out after some taps... I chose to press them out using a simple garage 20t press and this still required the use of a hammer and chisel. Next up... i threw some paint on it to stop exposed area's rusting. up to you Also got some new Cazman arms to replace my shitty china spec shit. Got some Subframe bushes machined up. this is a design that me and a mate came up with and seems to be good so far. they will allow the subframe to travel up into the body by around 35-40mm. They then install into the subframe.. designed to be a snug fit not a press fit. they will tap in with a block of wood to protect the alloy and a hammer. they only go in one way Now you can bolt it in. the shot here shows it test fitted but i find it easier to re-assy the cradle with all the diff/arms and hubs before refitting. Pics show bare cradle so you et the idea of clearances. Watch the handbrake cables... they do have the potential to be crushed if your not routing them correctly. may have to bend a bracket here and there to make sure they clear Nice and close... can fit a sheet of paper between the pick up and mount haha So there you have it kids.. an easy mod you can do at home. Subframe bushes can be had for around $150 so if your handy its not an expensive exercise at all to stiffen up the rear end and increase the handling of your car. this can be carried out on any Nissan IRS rear end.. for what its worth this is a S14 cradle. Article by Simon Michelmore 2010

all in all it fits really well... took me 5-6 attempts to get the subframe up onto the studs evenly as it would catch and then not go evenly. the holes in the bushes are 20.5mm and the studs are 20mm so the extra was to allow for slightly offset studs etc. Bushes were machined so they wack in with a block of wood and hammer.. can come out easy enough if need be. If you lok at the pics you'll see some parts come bloody close to fouling but yeah it all seems to clear pretty well

depending on your budget i wouldnt worry about a 2nd hand HSK turbo. just grab a new garret and set it all up nicely and it will be a good thing. you can get the 3076 with garret IW also.. this would be a good turbo if you wanted to retain the internal gate

what boost tho? the 3076 will do same power and response times... but less psi needed to make same power. Ive had both type of turbos on rb25's so bit of experience with them. My 3071R was a AVO or ATP style rear housing to bolt up to skyline dump. mounted lowmount and made 280 rwkw on 20 psi.. i then ran cams and made same power on 17 psi and spooled earlier. currently have 3076 but with garret rear and ex gate, full boost at 3500 and makes 310 rwkw on 17-18 psi, stock cams.

i'd go a 3076 with a .64 rear to be honest. will spool the same as a 3071 and make more top end power. can be lowmounted on stock manifold also.

unopened Neo Rb25det -3076 56t with .64 housing -highmount AM Performance stainless steampipe manifold with HKS 38mm gate -Profec Spec B -600cc injectiors -fmic -3.5 inch exh -Nistune 310 rwkw @17 psi at around 6800 rpm fullboost by 3500 roughly 480 nm torque at engine (calculated) got Poncams type B's coming very soon. its a drift car so want more midrange torque. makes plenty peak power. Was thinking i might swap the rear housing to a .82 with pon cams tho... see how i go.

got my cazman gear... very high quality stuff... you can see the differences yourself in the comparison shots between the cazman gear and the cusco toe arms and isc/driftshop camber arms.

sure am mate.. check back here in a few days and i'll have pics of them... mate is machining them up for me as i type

cheers mate glad ppl enjoyed it...was a good write up overall.

ripped the subframe out to do some mods to it plus raise it up.

yeah dont mind spending the time.. but my real question is if tomei pon cams are suppose to be a drop in solution am i just better off putting them in with stock gears or would it be worth spending the time and just going for an adjustable gear on the exhaust side. my last 25 i ran gtr cams reground to 260's and with stock gears they were no good.. but with some time spent adjusting aftermarket cam gears we saw gains everywhere.

anyone?

Hey guys. Currenlt have a neo RB25 with 3076 with 4bolt garret .63 housing, running 1.3 bar thro it and making 310 rwkw. While it makes good power the midrange torque is a little lacking so i was thinking of a set of Poncams and chucking them in. I see that they lists the two types so i may as well go for the 260's straight away. my question is. do i need adjustable gears for these to get the best results? i dont want to loose the vct on it so maybe just get an adjustable gear on the exhaust cam? has anyone had any decent results from poncams in a neo engine with a larger turbo?

After some cams for my neo motor, needs to retain vct and needs to be a drop in solution so after pon cams or the like, Hit me up with a PM or reply back here. Cheers Simon

Heres some footage i threw together from drift supercup. rear wheel alignment is shocking!

check engine light not wired up but when i plug consult in i get 3 or 4 codes up. relating to lack of TCS, ABS and few others. car drives fine tho...maybe its because its a nistune board?

siemens ones. not a whole heap of work really, needed to wire in new plugs and machine up some 12mm spacers to space the rail up. other then that its a bolt in swap. oh and check out the tutorial section... i made a guide for it also.

yes,.. i run them. making 320 rwkw no worries on 610cc injectors

which is why im leaning towards aen engine shut down... can set it to come on at 7psi rather then 0.. so soon as it starts dropping to critically low its cut power.

what do you think an engine limiter is? most of the time limiters are a solid fuel cut. there is no lean out detonation if all fuel is cut off.

mine runs with fault codes relating to TCS and few other things but does not put it in limp home mode.

Hey guys. i recently built an s14 that has a neo RB25 in it which sees track in the form of grip and drift...mostly drift.. anyway long story short last event i had a major oil down which i didnt know about til after i lost all oil pressure and the motor was still running... luckly not at high revs tho. I was able to shut it down and repair the leak and get back outthere with no engine damage but thats to say that it wont be so lucky next time. I have an oil pressure guage but its a little hard to pay attention to it all the time. So was thinking about rigging up a failsafe device. I work as a Forklift technician for Crown and most of our gas trucks have an oil pressure switch on them which provides power to the gas lock or fuel lock once it senses oil pressure... in short no oil press no power to fuel supply = no engine running. Now i'm not sure if i should rig it up to cut the engine (i'd prob set it up to cut power to injectors or power supply to ecu) or rig it up to a relay to activate a big bright light on my dash when theres no oil pressure.. only reason i'm a little hesitent about having it cut the engine is that if the switch fails mid race then its all over. sure i can by pass the switch to get it going again but not during a race. If it was a light i would be able to verify with the guage if there really is a loss of oil pressure and make a call to shut down there and then. what are your thoughts guys? this is the hobbs type pressure switch in question. trips at 7 psi and rated to 100psi. commonily available and same thread pitch as SR/RB oil pressure switches.