Simon-S14

yeah that would be awesome haha,m cheers for the heads up on the cam gear i'll check that next time i have to pull the front apart. could well be the case but right now im pretty sure its the diff ratio. tacho is stock s14 tach. works.. just reads wrong.

dyno went ok... had some issuse with the ebc not holding flat but in the end we tuned around it. Jeff did a few runs and we found that the VCT was causing a massive hole in the map up top... so he moved the change over point to 5000 rpm (stock is 5700) and it picked up a huge gain everywhere, tried going more and even in the other direction and no gains were made. So the larger turbo obviously requires the earlier change over point for its optimal power. Peak torque is hit at 3800 rpm... nice and early in the power band! some 500 nm of torque available at the wheels right there where you want it. running 17psi of boost and i honestly think that with 20 psi and a built motor theres still a large amount of room for more power with this set up. car sounds and goes awesome... dropped the clutch in 1st and it wheel span and then grabbed 2nd and it just hooked up and HAULED. it does feel a little laggy to build boost but i put that to the shitty diff ratio... it has a 3.7 atm and with a 4.3 it will be an animal!! finaly result... 290rwkw at 6800rpm 17 psi

the lines you'll have to ditch and get braided lines anyway. but yes, post a pic of turbo in place... more then likely something can be modded to make it fit

heres the way we did it..... clears everything and port for gate is nice and high.

why do that when the R32 one bolts straight in and fits

yeah its up and running. ecu was the issue, got another one and it fired up straight away

it can do both methods, its pretty much a duty cycle solenoid. but which method would best suit my application?

looks like its going on a VG30 not a 25, still way too big for a 3L motor anyway and im curious to know where you'll fit it in the engine bay lol

no you dont get an s14 radiator because the top port is on the wrong side. and dont get a R33 one as your bonnet wont shut as they are too tall for the S chassis I have a 25 in my s14 and i went with a r32 ISC alloy radiator and it seems pretty good! I made my motor fit with a clutch fan and all as i have a dislike of thermo fans. check my sig for pics

ah yes that makes sense now thanks, I have a fairly weak spring set up and wish to run around 1.1 bar. which way would be the best way to hook it up for fast ramp up or does that not really matter as the controller will take care of that regardless?

Hey guys ive hearing some conflicting things in regards to hooking up the lines to an external gate. The instruction manual says to hook up the side port to manifold and the top port to the COM side of the solenoid with NC seeing the hot pipe pressure. however a few guys i know who run them have them hooked up like you'd see on an internal gate actuactor with NO to hot pipe pressure and com to the side port of the gate and nothing in the top port. when asked why they did it this way compared to the way the manual says to do it they said they had overboost issues, anyone want to clarify?

thanks guys, im going to try these yellow jackets that Performance wise has,

ok pics of the first design here. this one is a R&D one only and the actual finished product looks more refined then this. But you get the idea. Plumb back mode, as you can see there is a handle, and a cap attached. Screamer mode, handle is pulled to lift pipe out of socket and then swivels to seat the cap down onto the plumb back port blocking it off and locating the screamer also.

I have for sale an AM Performance Dump/front in both RB or SR type which is switchable between screamer and plumb back, no electronics and no tools needed, takes 30 seconds to perform switch (when cold) and suits street cars who want to keep quiet but then would like to unleash the fury when hitting the track. very simple and reliable set up. No pics as yet but have two only available. Pm me if your keen for more info. Made from high quality stainless and polished mirror finish Price is $550 + delivery In adelaide but can post aust wide. PM me or email on [email protected]

Ive got a AM Performance screamer dump/front and decat pipe in one (bolts to turbo and replaces the cat and bolts straight to cat back) Ideal for track cars. was bolted to a HKS 2535 so the sleeve suits that or any GTRS style turbo. If you were to bolt to a stock RB20/25 turbo the sleve would have to be changed and Andrew from AM Performance is able to do this for a small fee. Suits R32 or R33 This dump is 2nd hand but in perfect condition. Pic is from when it was in new condition, it is discoloured now from the heat (normal) Price $300 Located NE Suburbs Adelaide Can post interstate for an additional $40 Contact via PM or sms 0409 567 603

never tried an air bleedy but i cant see how it would do any better then a pressure bleed? want to explain to me the process you took with the hydro?

you'll need a 20mm spacer between turbo and manifold more then likely and even then you may need to do some mods to things to make it fit.

thanks i'll get back to you tomorrow about that one. cheers

couldnt tell you what colour mine is atm... its a little worse for wear and looks a tad rusty

no abs on this car as its 100% pure track car. im with you on the solid brakes tho... these work but they defo are not confidence inspiring! started off by doing a normal one man brake bleed with a hose on the nipple submerged in fluid. that didnt work so we did a pressure bleed with one guy pumping the brake peddle, then holding down and me cracking the nipple then closing. also tried holding the peddle down while cracking the lines on the hydro slowly to let them leak out, then closing then releasing the peddle... that didnt change much. nothing seems to be flexing much. the BMC was loose on the booster to start with but upon doing that up hasnt changed the feel at all. no leaks as far as the eye can see pretty stumped on this one

Im after a set of split fires at a decent price for a RB25 Neo (r34 GT-T) this is for my s14 drift car and i need them within the next few days as its hitting the track soon. send me a PM with what you've got.

Ok so i ive an s14 with s15 brakes all round (same shit as s14 anyway) braided lines, new pads, hydro handbrake and i cannot get a decent peddle feel. its spongy as hell and myself (a mechanic) and paul Sil-014 (also a mechanic) have tried every bleed method under the sun without any luck what so ever, the BMC was fine and working last time it was used, booster is fine, peddle is adjusted correctly also. Basically with the engine running, the peddle goes 1/2 travel before engaging the pads.. not very confidence inspiring. we have tried cracking the lines on the hydro and bleeding them there also. no luck HELP!!!!!!!

im sorry what? out dated technology? a wastegate aint rocket science... its a spring, a diaphram and a valve basically...

next question is where do i get a spring from to suit a HKS gate? cant find any on the usual import sites.

Oh and DJRIFT my tacho seems to be way out, at 2500 rpm engine speed tach is showing 4K. i wired in a 10K resistor into it but doesnt seem to be doing the job, got any suggestions there mate?