Merli

humour > you

I assume that these are all 15 year old cars... In which case, you might want to think whether 64,000kms in 15 years is really accurate. Believe it or not, the Japanese drive their cars just as much as we do (8-12,000kms/year)... They pay so much for the priviledge of owning a car, believe me, they drive the bastards. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=35129

That's right.... Funky will do the bending over

Point in case

Dyno figures aren't worth the paper it's printed on, unless it's to compare "before and after" gains on the same car, preferably on the same day.

I stand corrected -88.6 degrees it is... BRRRRRR!!!

Well I originally donated $100 to Prank's account for the forums and asked not to be listed in the "People who have donated" thread as I wished to be kept anonymous, but I guess out of sight and out of mind rendered my donation forgotten... I have also donated $50 cash to SAU NSW and $50 in the form of buying the banner photo... Along with donating US$200 to SDU which I also asked to be kept anonymous. MonkeyMagic: ghey purple > black

And a comment like this is just as useless, without qualifying which statements you think are ill-informed.

Errrr... I donated $100 towards the forums December last year... Good to see my donation was appreciated

Basically yes, but running Nitrous Oxide as opposed to most boost is harder on the engine (especially standard internals) because of the MASSIVE heat cycles it subjects the cylinders and piston crowns and rings to... When the nitrous is injected into the intake runners/intake manifold, it immediately begins to boil and rapidly expand; the pressure drop will cause the temperature to decrease dramatically. Nitrous boils at 53.9°C below zero. When it hits the cylinders, COOLS everything immensely. Then combustion occurs, and an almightly fire burns, HEATING everything up a lot more than what the manufacturers spec'ed it out for... Repeat this cycle 8000 times per minutes (8000rpm) and you'll soon see how hard nitrous is on the engine. A small shot like 50-75hp is fine though, and any good condition engine can take that without any modifications.

Okay... Almost EVERY SINGLE THING you have said in this post is COMPLETELY WRONG Congratulations.

Dundan broked teh car

I'm going to try my hand at layouts... magazine-style... no promises though Anyone want to write an IN-DEPTH report on DC? Not just 2 paragraphs? Please?

Have you taken this down the 1/4 mile Brett?

Can all people who participated in the racing events at Drag Combat Final please list the times of all their runs in this thread please! Thanks guys! Andrew.

Dave ---> :coffee: :whackit: <--- Me

"I'm going to sneak up on that croc and jam my thumb in its butthole!". "Can I be the crocodile?"

Thanks for the link "At maximum rated power 330 kws the back pressure is less than 2 PSI"... 330kw is too low, although that's the first time I've ever heard of cats rated by kw figures...

This is more a discussion about honeycomb core qualities... The rest of the system is 3"-ish, so putting 4" flanges on will achieve nothing. I'm worried about the actual catalytic convertor honeycomb design and it's flow properties. Which brand has the best flowing one?

Yikes... This thread grew very quickly! Lots of questions to answer... Roy: I'll be using HKS dumps, HKS front pipes, , APEXi GT-Spec rear. I don't really fancy chopping up the HKS front pipes to put two 2.5" cats in-line there, but I'll keep it in mind. AboBob & EvoLee: I shall give CES a call and see what they can tell me. I know that APEXi and Mines publish the flow rates for their cats, and they're excellent flow rates, but for those prices, they'd better be... I'd rather not pay $1500 for a cat if I can help it cereal: as far as I know, in relation to cats, the measurement is across the actual honeycomb material, so with a 4" cat, you can weld 3" flanges to it and bolt it onto your 3" system, but since the honeycomb structure is restrictive, flaring out to a 4" cross section honeycomb will still be less of a restriction than a 3" honeycomb section, even though your flanges are 3" I have no idea whether a 4" cat will fit under the car... I think the main point of contention was that the honeycomb material used in most of these aftermarket cats were inferior, and so even though they were larger (cross section) than stock cats, they didn't actually lessen the restriction, so they were useless.

So I remember people saying that some "3" high flow cats" were a myth and a waste of money, and don't flow more than stock ones... What are the good ones to get? What about 4" ones? I want to keep a cat because I can't stand the stained rear bar or the smell of petrol fumes permeating the cabin... What's the best and highest flowing cat available? Brands, and points of sale please! Cheers guys!

Stacey, why wait for the next Drag Combat? We have monthly dinners, near weekly meetups and cruises, as well as trackdays (Eastern Creek, Wakefield and Oran Park) organised at least once a month!!! As for a front on shot, how about this one? http://www.andrewho.com/misc/photography/d...es/DSC_4657.jpg (491kb) Oh, and it's not the camera, it's the photographer!!!

I cropped those photos of MADLS1 and GTR700... Refresh to see the updated ones