NismoR31Jet

There are no backing plates on the front brakes from factory, but there are on the rears, I had removed them but didn't make much difference, but I really think ducting to the front brakes will make a huge difference. As for rotors, I have noticed a few people on here having issues with the DBA rotors cracking, but what other disk manufacturers are there that do replacement slotted rotors? Are the RDA rotors any better? As for the handbrake with R32 rear brakes.....How did you do it?

I think the biggest drama would have to be the disks. They are either too small in diamater, or the DBA gear is not great quality which is contributing to the disks warping fairly quickly. Or even a mix of both. which is why I am considering moving my existing caliper out and using a larger diamater disk. Yes, I know that the actual pad area is no greater, but there is more heat dissipation available with the larger disk?

looks nice man, color scheme, wheels and ride height look so right!

Racepace by far are the most professional and honest workshop I have ever dealt with, I have been to a few, and have been burnt badly, but I have never had an issue with racepace, always top qulaity work, and my PFC tune is brilliant, the car runs better and returns better economy than the stock ECU ever did.

The R31, weather wagon or sedan, was only available with the RB30e 6 cyl or ca20e in 4 cyl. Trim levels for Skylines are GX and GXE on all series and Executive was added in series 3. Pintara have GX and GXE in series 1 and 2 and series 3 got GLi and Executive also. the only real difference the GXE has over the GX is oil pressure and volt gauges, slightly fancier trim, different hub caps and some other minor things. The main points is the GXE came with Auto trans and A/C standard. A/C and auto was optional in the GX. The executive was basically a GX with ac and auto standard, but everything else was like a GX. This is all I can remember, some points may be mixed up but I think it is pretty much right.

this was using my regular street tyres. Front are goodyear revspec 215/40 18 and rear bridgestone potenzas 235/40 18. I was runnng some 15"s with semi comps, but I was getting more wheelspin with them as they are a bit small (only 205/60 r15). As for car weight, a stock R31 in my model is around 1300 kg, mine has the rb26 now but has had the AC removed and the power steer removed so I would estimate around the 1300 should still be right? I guess the first thing I should have done is run ducting to the brakes! I am sure the extra airflow would have helped! The only other drama is getting them to fit on an R31! I have had the face of the sumitomo calipers shaved off to give more clearance between the caliper and rim.

I only managed 3 laps at sandown (kept loosing oil pressure above 6500 rpm) and the best I got was 1:30. That was my first time out at sandown that was not in the rain! At calder with the RB30 I managed a 1:10 with this brake setup. I am not sure on budget yet, I guess I want to find out what I need and do my research and see what is out there. Then I guess budget will be worked out then.

Heyyas. On my R31 tha tI use for track days, I am currently running R32 GTR or R33 GTS-t sumitomo calipers (I cant remember what they are off) and 280mm DBA slotted disks with RaceBred custom pads (Racebred build GTP and targa porches and these are the targa compound). Rears are standard R31 brakes with drilled rotors and same pads as front. This setup was fine with the RB30 making just under 200 rwkw but with the Rb26 making just under 270rwkw they are not cutting the mustard! After 3 laps at sandown I get shocking brake shudder and the brakes are starting to fade badly Now, I am looking at upgrading my brakes, but to what. I had my mind set on Brembos from a 33 GTR but after looking around on here they lont look much larger than the sumitomos I am currently running. I am sure they are larger, but they are still a 4 pot and for the price, I am sure there is a better option. I have noticed kits that use a dogbone bracket to mount the sumitomo caliper out further from the disk and run a larger disk (325mm I think?) This kit with alloy hats and disks costs around the same as a set of second hand front brembo calipers on their own! But are the sumitomo calipers junk or are they ok? I will upgrade the rears but with the matching caliper to what I use (or will be using) on the front. Any info or opinions would be great.

I am using slotted 280mm rotors and R32 gtr calipers with custom pads and after 3 laps at sandown I had severe brake shudder through the steering wheel and brake fade! Sounds like yours are doing better than mine!

Where are you located? and would you post to melbourne?

Yea....the photographer gave me a disk with the photos on it. And for our first wedding anniversary, Kelly got a huuge poster made up and framed with a few pics of the car on it!

Yep, I had never thought of that. I have taken the pics down, dont want to cause any problems.

here are some pics of the car taken during the photo shoot.

HAHA....... After havin a chat with benno I am going to rebuild it regardless, as far as I know from what the inporter told me, it has 80,000 kms on it.....although....he also told me it was an R33 engine.....which it is not! So yea....it is running fine now but it has got a fair bit of blow by, so might as well get it all sotred in one hit.

I hear where you are comming from man. I am just worried I may have done some damage to the bearings with the oil pressure dropping at the revs I was pulling. What engine is yours? Or more importantly, what crank and oil pump you using? In the back of my mind there is the fact that mine is an R32 engine, and they are known for dodgy oil pumps. I just want to make it reliable....

Is there a balancer that has only 1 belt groove? I do not run A/C or Power steering, I only have 1 belt for the water pump and alternator.

Yep, I just read the 5 page thread on oil control by Sydney Kid. It seems to make a lot of sence, I guess all the blow by could be caused by the oil pooling up in the head? I guess the oil control mods outlined in that post should be done, it can only help. Yea ash, I will speak to benno tomorrow and suss it out. What bothers me is until I noticed the gauge I was pushing up to 7,500 a fair bit, so I am thinking I should replace the main and big end bearings just to be sure. And if I am doing the bearings I probably should to an R33 crank or fit the oil pump drive collar and a better oil pump while I am at it. And then while I am at it I may as well re ring it or fit forgies, and the turbos will be off.....so a set of GTrs? turbs may find their way on too....... Now do you see my problem? I have an ilness.....I am a modificationaholic.....I need help...... But my wife is encouraging a build.......so this is looking to be messy.....

It isn't a GTR sump, but a High Energy trap door sump. I have been told i may need restricters in the oil gallery to stop the oil from gathering in the head?

Well, I was at sandown today giving the car its first track day with the 26. After one hard lap things looking bad. At full throttle above 6000 RPM the oil pressure would go from around 70 psi down to 50 and then start to fluctuate from 50 to 25 or so until I back off the gas and bring the revs back down to below 6 grand. Then after this happened twice I pulled into the pits and saw oil leaking from a cooler pipe. I removed the cooler pipe right infront of the plenum to find the plenum and cooler piping with a thick coating of oil in them. I am sure this oil is just blow by, as the engine has around 80,000 kms on it, but the swinging oil pressure has me baffled. The engine itself is stock from an R32 GTR, with a High energy trap door baffeled sump, cam gears, power FC, rebuilt with steel wheel turbos, 3 inch exhaust and running around 15 psi it was making just under 270rwkw. I now have the car home, it seems to be running fine but blowing a bit of white smoke, this could be from the oil in the cooler and piping tho. Oil is Mobil 1 5w50 and level is spot on. What is your take on this, what can you see causing the oil pressure fluctuation? I think a rebuild will need to be done, so now I need to work out what sort of rebuild do i want!

Unfortunately I didnlt get a say in the writing of the story, I bought the car 9 years ago for 5 grand! Everything on the car I have done myself except for a few things like the exhaust and tuning. Being a wualified Panelbeater, painter and mechanic, the cost of labour was never an issue. And yea.....it is heaps of fun to drive....it get sback out onto the track this sunday, the car has not seen a circuit event (besides drift events) for around 4 years now, so hopefully it will return some good times.

Just thought id mention my R31 sedan is in the new issue of Zoom. Check it out.

My wife owns, drifts and works on her Turbo R31 Skyline. And she also autocrosses and motorkahnas our 120y race car.

There are the Aussie GTS body kits.....I think you can get most of the bits in fibreglass copies now....

I made it myself at home.

There is nothing wrong with the R31 rear end, only the LSD's wear, but that is standard for any cone style LSD borg warner diff. All aussie R31 Skylines use the exact same center as a VL turbo being 28 (I think) spline and 4 pinion center. So a VL turbo Kaaz (if they exist) center will fit an R31. Non Turbo VL uses 25 spline I think and 2 pinion center. In mine I am using the R31 diff but with V8 falcon LSD gear in it, I dont know what the difference is but the diff guy recons they are better....I just think it was easier to get!