NismoR31Jet

Where are you located? Pics?

Where are you located? Will you post to Melbourne?

Yea, that is what happens if the drive shaft bolt is left loose for too long, it will shag out the wheel bearing. .....it will feel tight, but you will want to get a decent socket onto the nut, they are 36mm from memory and I use a 1.5m long steel tube on a braker bar and basically swing off it to make sure it is tight.

Which part of the caliper is hitting the rotor? Is your car a GTR? If so have you removed the front driveshaft from the side that is touching? Check your drive shaft nut that passes through the hub, it should be bloody tight. If the nut is slightly loose it can cause movement in the wheel bearing allowing the rotor to 'tilt' as such around corners.

What size is the intercooler core? What size are the pipes on the end tanks? What size is the pipe into the muffler?

This may sound silly but would the rear pods (aprons) fit on a GTR and have you got a pic focussed on the aprons fitted?

Where are you? Pics?

No replies to PM?

Push or Pull type?

Will you post a clutch to melb? What flywheels do the clutches come with? Weight?

I just threw out a complete series 1/2 and a complete series 3 auto setups as no-one was interested!

There are 2 types of auto trans for R31 Skylines. The series 1+2 run an auto box that is mechanically/electrically controlled and the series 3 used a full electrically controlled auto. The series 1+2 auto is identified by having a vacum hose that connects to the inlet manifold. The wiring harness for the autos are completely different from series 1+2 to series 3, and are not interchangeable without a hell of a lot of wiring work.

The turbo RB30 actually has a few differences. Besides lower compression the turbo engine also has a high volume oil pump and oil squirters in the block that squirt oil on the underside of the pistons to help cool the pistons. I think that is all for bottom end differences. The camshaft is different too but that is of no concern if you are going twin cam head.

Ahhk.......sorry....I didn't realise there was 2 J-specs!

If you get onto Calaisturbo.com.au J-spec post on there.

RB30 clutch and pressure plate bolts straight onto an RB26 flywheel. So I would guess all RB series clutches of the same type (being pull or push) would be interchangeable.

Just get an R31 speedo drive.

that GTRB28 is bloody awesome! Man.....that thing looked so fat from the view I had from my car, sitting behind it on the trailer on the way home..... I love your engine bay! And speaking of the drive home, what was the go with the Navara and the worlds loudest spool noise?

AFM has 5 or 6 wires each i think......and the signal wires are covered in an anti static sheath that needs to be grounded.

Yea....To hide the loom like that I had removed the entire dash and stripped the inner side of the firewall from all heaterboxes and all that ans ran the engine loom on the inside of the firewall then ran it through to the engine bay just under the rear edge of the inlet manifold. Extending the AFM wiring was the hardest bit.

MissyK owned the red RX8 next to the EZZY RX8. The EZZY car is owned by a good friend of hers. And yea, the same EZZY as with the astina back in the day.

LOL at Ash.....He made my baby cry! Well done to the SAU guys It is nice to see a stand where it is about cars with power and not cars with fake coolers and 10 tonnes of fibreglass stuck on em. Still.....that datto with the rotor......SCHWING!

SAU stand looks awesome.... That datto 1200 with the rotor......man....I saw that and made a mess in my pants....

I am thinking using the backing plate and hand brake setup from an s13 or r32/33. That way I know it will fit the inside of the disk correctly. I was thinking of doing the Commodore setup, and I have even seen XD-XE V8 fairlane rear brakes adapted, they use a 280-290mm (I think) vented rotor with a large caliper with the hand brake built in to the caliper much like an R31.

Thanks man, I went through so many ideas to try and get it to look right. I wanted to keep the series 2 front because A. It is different to the usual series 3 conversion and B. The series 1-2 headlamps work bloody awesome on the open road, especially with the highbeam on, 3 high beams on each side....Works awesome as I used to do a fair bit of long distance driving with it.