steeldawg_69

Ok, I tried that, still having the same issue with the timing, thanks for the input though, appreciated.

What's up guys, I have been having some really serious issues with my build. I recently redid my engine and my ignition timing is way off. I have done the mechanical timing over 6 times now and each time I have done it I have rotated the engine several times to make sure the crank and cam marks line up, they always do, dead on. When the ignition timing is done the most I can get out of it is 15 degrees BTDC. When I remove the front cover with the RB logo on it, I'm able to adjust the timing to 20 degrees BTDC, but then CAS is not centered and I have very little adjustment left. I have Tomei procams, 260 duration, 10.80mm lift with adjustable cam gears. Yes, I have tried searching but I have not been able to find anyone with a similar problem to mine. The only information I have been able to get is I read somewhere that if my CAS is turned all the way advance then I'm doing something wrong, the thing is I don't know what I could be possibly doing wrong. The motor is swapped into a Nissan 240sx, and that is the one major issue I've been having with the car. I appreciate any suggestions, thanks.

+1 for that. Spend time knowing your car dude, you'll find that in the long run you'll spend less money.

Update............ I tested the power transistor today and it turns out number five resistance reading was off (dead short). I ordered one so now I wait. Thanks to all that answered my post, I'll keep you guys posted.

Anyone?

I had forgotten to ask, what could be the reason for the compression to be in the 90's? The hg was 1.2mm.

Ok will definately do that. I checked to see if there was anything hindering the plug from going in. It went in without hassle. I just cant figure out what would make two coilpacks pop like that within 15 mins of each other. I'm going to recheck all my grounds. I almost forgot, the builder could not find my shims and he had the machine shop make some, now I'm starting to think......oh boy!

Forgot to mention that I had poured a capfull of oil in the faulty cylinder and there was no change in compression. The plugs I am using is the NGK iridium BKR8EIX. I used to use the 7 series and changed them for the colder plugs.

Hey guys, I am having some problems with my gtr motor and would love some help. To begin with the engine was yanked, pistons changed, rod bolts changed to arp, headgasket was the cometic superstreet hg. My engine management is power fc (got a used one from my engine builder). Head was ported and polished, tomei procams installed with tomei solid lifters, valve springs and retainers etc.. I have been having very low compression since the build, pretty much 90-95 psi across the board. Now here lies some of the other problems, the car has been mildly tuned and when I get on the car the idle becomes really rough and it takes a little while for it to clear up. I started to get compression readings of 0, 30, 90 and now 50 psi on number 4 cylinder. The other cylinders hold at 90 psi. I get no smoke so it leads me to think that the problem is in the head. I am going to be taking the motor out in a couple days to see what's going on but my new problem is now this, yesterday while driving the car it started to give me the "subaru sound" when I stopped I noticed that number 5 was not firing, I have injector pulse and the plug is wet. I also noticed the coilpack had a huge crack on it. I tried to tape it up and the replaced it with the coilpack from number 4. I also changed the plug. I cruised home and when I got home, decided to check the coilpack again, where I saw that the replaced coilpack also cracked! So now I have TWO cracked coilpacks. I have use the gtr manual to check the wiring and also the ignition relay, I ran out of time but I will be checking the power transistor when I get home. Do you think that the power fc is the problem and has anyone else had this problem? The engine is from a 96 gtr and is in a 97 240sx. Going to post a picture.

Ok, my reason for asking is that I want to make sure I eliminate that threat while doing the rebuild. Thanks mate.

Anyone?

I was doing a search and found out that the reason the crank would walk like that would be due to the pressure plate. Would that be true?

No, its not cracked its just how the picture was taken.

Thanks a lot URAS and Greg, I'll show him the post you guys made and we'll take it from there. I really appreciate the time you guys took to read my post and advise me.

My guy was saying he did not want to line bore because he was afraid that it would probably cause the oil pump not to line up properly (not sure if I am quoting him well). Thanks much for your reply though, it means a lot to get help on this forum.

Need a little help here. Spun bearings on my RB26 motor and now gathering parts for the rebuild. Problem is this............my builder looked at the block and noticed there was crank walk with some damage on the edges of the block where the main bearings would sit. the thing is when we put the new main bearings in the block, the damaged edges do not affect the area where the new main bearings will sit, my question is this............should I discard the block or can it still work? I've tried taking some pictures to show the damage. Thanks guys. Picture taken from rear of the block. #6 #5 Center #3 #2 #1 I hope these pictures help, thanks again guys.

Ok, two things ..............read every page of the link again and did not find anything to answer my question, my project is ongoing so the next stage is the all wheel drive system we have streetable 240sx running upwards of 620hp here and it is streetable not to say I'm goingfor that.......just to let you know. Thanks.

I had a similar problem with my car and it turned out to be loose ground to the igniter. Just throwing it out there.

IMO there has to be some form of return, but I'm a rookie.

Great post!! Good arguments on both sides. After this read I'll be going Sydneykid's route.

Is this your idea of a joke?

Hope this is not a dumb question, can the head be cleaned properly without the valves being removed? Thanks again for the advice mate.

Whew thank you very much!! Been reading the 33 page post all night while eyeing this thread for a response, all i need to get now is a brand new factory oil cooler. By the way I'm up to page 21 reading the post you made about the engine builder.

Ok, I'm in the process of reading the thread you sent to me, can somebody tell me what head mods are necessary after you have spun bearings or to put the question another way, what work is required to be done to the cylinder head after spun bearings?

This is why I said "absolute max". I may end up tracking the car full time, but that would be further down the road. My thing is I don't want to pull the engine out after this build. Maybe my thinking is naive and hence the reason I have posted my question here, because you guys have way more experience than I do. I have read a part of the oil control thread, and I intend to read every page of it, my main question really is how much work is recommended to do to the head? The reason for my question is that my engine builder is suggesting removing the vavles along with cleaning the head. I know the head has to be cleaned due to the possibility of metal from the bearings being present, just wanted to know how much head work is needed. Thank you for the quick response tho.