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blind_elk

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Everything posted by blind_elk

  1. blind_elk
    You said it does it on startup, but not on idle. The starter only works on startup, and isn't working once the engine is idling. If the fuel pressure is fine, but you are getting a leanout at 6500, then it's the tune, not a knock sensor. AFAIK, rooted sensors do nothing (ie have no effect on anything), rather than interfere with workings.
  2. blind_elk
    If you are getting timing issues during tuning, then maybe the sensors are doing their job, and you have genuine knock issues. Have you run an ECU diagnostic to determine if there is a problem with the sensors? Ever thought it might be the "noise" of the starter motor? They are located in the block, under #2 and #5 inlet runners.
  3. blind_elk
    Don't they sell it in gallon containers (we can get 5litre containers here)?
  4. blind_elk
    Look on the dba website
  5. blind_elk
    The "W" doesn't mean "weight", it means "winter", and indicates that the oil will pour below 0C (32F). A 0W40 / 5W40 / 10W40 is likely to be your best bet. A 20W50 is too thick for startups (the 20 represents ability to provide lubrication from cold start). For oil filters, etc, try something for the 300ZX. FYI there are 3.79 litres in a US gallon.
  6. blind_elk
    You might have a break in the wiring to Injector#2. Try jiggling the plug and loom for #2 (after you put it all back together!)
  7. blind_elk
    The sparking is because something (usually stereo, for keeping station settings) is still drawing current. No major drama. Most alarm sirens will go off if they switch to their backup battery (such as when the car's battery is disconnected). The siren should have a key to turn it off so you can disconnect the car battery.
  8. blind_elk
    What colour smoke?
  9. blind_elk
    They are the standard plugs for the RB25DET. They should be fine in yours.
  10. blind_elk
    Just ask for a thermostat for a RB25DET. Autobarn should have a catalogue to find the right part#.
  11. blind_elk
    Not sure why you have 2 relays. Ordinarily, it would be set up with: Pin 30 = +12V (battery) Pin 87 = +12V -> fan -> earth Then depending how the thermo switch works: Pin 85 = thermo switch -> earth Pin 86 = +12V (IGN) or Pin 85 = +12V <- thermo switch Pin 86 = earth
  12. blind_elk
    You don't need to replace the cam. But if that's what you want to do ... Someone has removed the CAS between the time it was working and the time it wasn't working. If you are certain the CAS is positioned correctly, then the problem is somewhere else.
  13. blind_elk
    The factory plug is a PFR6B-11. With the mods, I think you should probably 1 ranger colder, to a PFR7B-11.
  14. blind_elk
    What boost controller are you running? Is it seized shut?
  15. blind_elk
    You would have had spark when the CAS was installed. It's just that the CAS wasn't installed in the correct alignment. Therefore the spark wasn't at the correct time. You should be able to see the mark in the cam end where the key used to be. Now visualise how the CAS needs to be installed to align with the missing key half. The teeth in the CAS and cam will keep the CAS aligned once installed.
  16. blind_elk
    The fact that it got "dirty" is probably testament to the detergents in it doing their job, cleaning up the carbon crap inside the engine.A 30 grade oil is thinner than a 40, so why are you changing to a 30 if 40 is too thin?
  17. blind_elk
    That is just a keyway, that allows the CAS to be correctly aligned when re-assembling. It's still possible to assemble te CAS correctly - just need to use a bit of visualisation to determine the correct position.
  18. blind_elk
    Have you checked the fluid level in the ATTESSA reservoir?
  19. blind_elk
    You're not wrong there, you imbecile. max boost in 4th, and you're going for 5th. On a public street. You sir, are an absolute Fu(kwit, the kind we don't need here.
  20. blind_elk
    The alternator is putting out too much voltage trying to re-charge the battery after starting. The HICAS ECU judges this to be a problem, and plays silly buggers with the HICAS pump.
  21. blind_elk
    What you have is a standard Wolf 3D v4, and a 3D v4 wire-in loom. It's not even a 4+, which means you have to run waste spark ignition (4+ lets you run sequential ignition). You need to remove the R32's loom, and replace it with the Wolf 3D loom.
  22. blind_elk
    Problem 1 sounds like an AAC issue. Problem 2 - don't EVER disconnect the hose from the wastegate actuator. I don't care what the gauge says, you will be building enormous boost levels because the wastegate will not open. It sounds like the hosing is correct - I'm guessing the tee is to a bleed-off valve.
  23. blind_elk
    If you still have doubts, call the Mobil LubeLine 1800 033 863 I'm assured they will give you unbiased information, even if they are part of Mobil.
  24. blind_elk
    It's the same engine as a VL Commodore - try a Holden dealer / wrecker.
  25. blind_elk
    You won't go wrong with: Brand - any name brand ie Mobil, Shell, Castrol, etc Type - Full Synthetic API rating - SJ (minimum, current is SM) SAE (Grade): First digits (for starting) - 0W, 5W, 10W / Last Digits (for running) - 40
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