blind_elk

It's a voltage problem. You may well have to replace the battery.

Unlike 32s, 33s use an electric HICAS, so the pump shouldn't be a problem. I know the R32 pump is physically much bigger than a R33 (Stagea) pump, simply because of the hydraulic HICAS in the 32.

It's supposed to be on the return line off the end of the fuel rail. I should probably feed into the side and out the bottom. It's designed to maintain a given pressure in the fuel rail (it's not the actual pump that causes the fuel pressure).What pressure is it set to maintain?

Not sure how to diagnose the problem, but I have a spare from a Stagea RB25DET if you need to replace yours.

Simple answer - it was the only night available.

So, you turn on the headlights and the LH one doesn't work. Now you need to find the switch that turns on the headlights. Mama Mia!

Well, that suggests your fuel pump has died. Probably coincidental.

You connected it the right way round? What happens when you try and start it? Information! We aren't mind readers!

Have you done a "wet" compression test? Or a leakdown test? It's most likely going to be in the rings area - a cracked ring can still give some compression. Less likely is a valve, either bent, or maybe carbonned up so it doesn't close properly.

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The AAC bleeds air into the plenum at idle, when throttle is closed. Just fit the damn thing!

I don't believe they make 100W for the low beam. The highest rated I have seen is 75W. You can fit 100W for the high beam.

One is a SENSOR, one is a SWITCH. Measure the resistance between the top 2 pins. The sensor will have variable resistance, the switch will have on-off resistance.

The injectors are supposed to tick. Check the TPS for "closed throttle" switching.

It's probably the result of the Japs not using corrosion inhibiter in the cooling system. The acidic water in Japan eats the hoses from the inside out. Best bet is to replace the lot, now.

You'll probably be in cruise mode most of the time. 95 RON will be fine. Add a bottle of Octane Boost every couple of tanks as a safety margin.

Not the bit inside the CAS. The mating half inside the front of the exhaust cam. You can use a screwdriver as a sort of stethoscope to listen if the injector is operating.

So, you're sure the cams are aligned correctly? And you've confirmed the half-moon key, to locate the CAS, is still inside the end of the exhaust cam?

Don't think it's supposed to do that. Try connecting a laptop to see what's happening.Failing that, talk to Robbie at Wolf.

Do a search, you will find out that, unlike WRX and Lancer systems, Nissan's ATTESSA isn't a constant 4WD system. Your car appears to be running exactly as Nissan designed it.

Who????

All that has been done is to remove both hoses from the heater core, and join the ends with a short piece of steel tube.

Pirtek

More likely because your right foot is too heavy.How good are the tyres? Auto Trans fluid. Check the level with ignition ON.

Having run out of fuel, you may have picked up a heap of crap which is restricting flow through the filter. You may not be getting sufficient fuel pressure to provide enough fuel to start. What does the Wolf say while trying to start (injector time, ignition timing, etc)?