blind_elk

PM me your email, I can scan one and send tonight.

If you install an empty master cylinder, you have to bleed the master cylinder before bleeding each wheel. I would expect it is exactly the same when you install the hydraulic handbrake.

WHY? Because some people are assholes who have absolutely no respect for other people's property. As for replacing it, try your local Nissan dealer.

Just went and tested mine. Now this is a R32 with a rb25det transplant - I don't recall if I had to swap in the RB20 sender or not. But the gauge works perfectly. Anyway, mine measures 640 ohms to earth, dead cold.

As you look at the engine from in front of the car, the pulley rotates clockwise. TDC is then the LAST mark to align with the marker on the timing case. (first is 30 BTDC)

Seen, gazed upon, used your eyes to view.What does the setup look like, and how do the components compare to what you want to fit on there. It ain't rocket-fn-science.

I've done this a couple of times - once on a RB20DET, once on a RB25DET. I'm almost certain that you DO NOT need to remove the camshafts. The head bolts (10mm Allen key) are easily accessible with the camshafts in place. The 6mm bolts (10mm head) are a bastard to get out. Leave the turbo and exhaust manifold attached. Remove the inlet manifold (you might have to split it). There might be a heap of crap (like fuel filter) you need to remove to gain access to the real bolts. Watch out for all the hoses attached at various places.

Have you looked at your current (GTS) setup?

The manual is stating tightening torque. Socket size and tightening torque are totally unrelated. The socket size depends on the nut / bolt you are dealing with. Just go down to Autobarn or SuperCheap and get a socket set (8 - 19 mm will cover the majority of nuts / bolts in a skyline)

If it's coming back through the pedal, then it might be the ABS!

Aren't you supposed to disconnect the AAC plug to set it. Otherwise, the ECU will just keep re-adjusting the valve to maintain idle speed.

4 or 5 stud? I have a set of 17x7.5 (5x114.3) fitted with 50% Bridgestone Potenza GIIIs 235/45x17 if you are interested.

Cubic Inches count. And the RB25 has torque to burn. I'm yet to come close to blowing up the gearbox, despite pushing 180 kW out all 4 wheels (RB20 put a whole 115 through 4 wheels).

Unfortunately, trying to persuade the government that there are better ways to go about injury and death reductions on the state's roads is just like bashing your head against a brick wall! Improved training has to be No. 1. As Peter Wherret said many years ago, "You don't learn how to drive a car, you learn how to get a licence". They complain about how much it costs to treat injured people, but they won't do anything POSITIVE to prevent them being injured in the first place. I drove up the Calder the other night to Bendigo. It's a while since I've been along the road past Calder raceway. It's now 80 zone, because people (drivers) keep trying to cross over the road in front of cars travelling 100 in the opposite direction. Which idiot designed that in the first place? Why don't they build a single overpass as the only means to get into and out of the Taylors Lakes area. No, can't do that - costs money! But we'll continue to spend money treating injuries (and complaining about the cost). My brother is a QANTAS pilot. Do you think he was able to jump in a 747 simply because he got a licence to fly a Cessna 210? NOT ON YOUR NELLIE! And it should be the same with driving on the roads. I personally feel that P-platers should have to pass an Advanced Driving course to get a full licence. And if they can do that in 1 year, so be it. If they take 10 years, then at least other drivers will be aware that they are basically incompetent and steer clear of them. /rant

How are you feeling the vibration? Through the steering wheel?

You've already paid for the Wolf. You need the ECU that interfaces to the ATTESSA computer. If you only have a basic V400, see if you can swap it for a GT-R plug'n'play model.

Gave up waiting for a reply from website enquiry and called SMB (the 1300 number) - $545 !!!!! Bris -> Mel depot to depot. Think I'll stick with Toll.

I'm sure it's been covered before - try a search. 2.5k comes to mind for the sensor resistance when cold. EDIT: No that's the ECU temp sensor. Don't think it's covered in my workshop manual.

I think you need a SILL, actually. No idea if they are the same, but the GT-R floorpan must be different to accommodate the transfer case.

You haven't put something in arse-about when you rebuilt the cylinders?

Did the master cylinder ever run dry while you were bleeding the brakes? You bled them RL, then RR, then FL, then FR? You tightened the bleed nipple before letting the pedal up?

200,000 kms

The FPR takes a signal from the manifold so that it maintains a fixed pressure above the manifold. So if you up the boost, the FPR will add sufficient extra fuel, based on the manifold pressure (= boost). Adjusting the pressure is a useful alternative to fitting bigger injectors. BUT, you need to re-tune the ECU, because upping the pressure will enrich the mixture, and these engines run rich enough as it is without adding extra fuel.

You're sure you have the pushrod adjusted correctly at the pedal. Because it sounds like the master is gradually building pressure because it can't release properly. Pretty certain there should be a slight amount of slop in the pushrod when the pedal is fully released.

Just set it to "factory" fuel pressure, then leave it alone.