blind_elk

The CAS locates on a half-moon key. Sometimes, the half in the end of the camshaft breaks off, which means the CAS can be installed in the wrong orientation.

Just studying the photos again. It looks like the link pin on the sway bar might be interfering with the positioning of the hub. Try tucking it back down away from the hub. Also, is the car jacked up on both sides? Jacking up one side only loads the sway bar and can create difficulties getting stuff to line up properly.

There's no "strut".Disconnect everything - hub, sway bar, castor rod - from the control arm. The arm should be a tight fit into the x-member, and may need a spot of "persuasion" (if you get my drift). The hub will slop around because it's only held by the upper control arm. Once you have the arm attached and bolted to the x-member, the hub can be swung into position and connected to the ball joint. Now you can start thinking about connecting the castor rod and sway bar. The castor rod forms the third side of the triangle to keep the wheel in position, so you may need to lever the hub assembly into position so the castor rod can be connected to the control arm. Connect the castor rod to the chassis first. Then move the control arm / hub to meet the castor rod.

The Stagea diff I bought also came with Allen bolts. So could be an AWD thing (mine is GTS4).

Make sure they are ADR approved (Maltech's definitely are).

My tailshaft-to-diff used Allen bolts.

Unless you have a GTS4, with all the AWD gear, then a GTS4 manual box is a waste of a good AWD box. I'm pretty sure that nearly every previous question about this has resolved that the floor pans are different, and the RWD floorpan can't accept a AWD gearbox. And chopping the transfer case off the AWD box is, as I said, a waste of a perfectly good AWD box.

It probably just needs a "kit" putting through the master cylinder.

#4 is becoming a bit sad. Add a LITTLE BIT of engine oil into #4 cylinder and re-test. No change in compression suggests a valve problem, increase in compression suggests rings are going.

Put in about 4.5l. Start engine until the gauge registers pressure (5 - 10 secs), then switch off. Let stand for a few minutes to allow the oil to drain back to the sump. Now check dipstick, add oil as necessary.

Cam cover to top of shroud is 87 mm. Fan blade clearance to radiator is about 47 - 48 mm.

Doubt it. ATF is basically a hydraulic fluid, gearbox needs a lubricant.

Do you have an oil/air separator (catch can). Oil vapours could be "infecting" your intake air. And that will severely reduce the effective octane of the whole air / fuel combo. Another possibility is a worn piston or 2 slopping around in the bore, "simulating" knock. Have you done compression and leak down tests on the engine.

Maybe check the plug (that doesn't connect to the Mines speedo) for continuity back to pin 53 at the ECU (pin 53 is the speed signal wire).

RBs run a gauge, so the pressure sender is a variable resistor (the pressure sender earths the gauge). If you aren't running a gauge, but only a "OH SH*T!!!!" light, simply replace the RB sender with a BMW sender / switch. (have I understood your dilemma correctly?) Wiring the tacho depends on how the BMW tacho works and how the Nissan tacho works (whether they both use square wave signal, or some other signal).

The LCA pivots from the cross-member out towards the hub assembly. (The cross-member is also the structure that the engine sits on)

Have you tried fitting the x-member end first, then connecting the hub?

You mean ADR approved. And Maltech in Geelong are (supposedly) the only manufacturer with said ADR approval.Great idea for a 32, can't imagine it would be any different for a 33.

There is a FAQ on the donateblood website about blood pressure. It's actually about HIGH blood pressure, but I think the answer is pertinent: Medicines for the control of blood pressure are acceptable, providing your blood pressure is adequately controlled and stable. If you are on meds to control your blood pressure, you may still be an acceptable donor. Check the actual problem with your doctor, then ring the Blood Bank (13 14 95) and ask them.

I would suggest that you have damaged one of the ABS sensors, located on the diff flange.

Don't know about your headlight problem. As for spark, does your engine have the igniter module on the top of the engine?

The engine blocks have the hole in one of 2 positions. It's just a way of cutting down on the number of pumps required to cover all engines. I have one of those pumps in my RB25, and it hasn't caused any problems.

These engines aren't designed to run 91 octane fuel. It would probably cost you more $$$ in poor fuel economy than the added cost of getting 98 octane stuff in the first place. If you shop at Coles, you can get the discount vouchers to buy Optimax. Woolies/Safeway, you can get Caltex Vortex 95 octane (worst case). Shell probably have a 95 as well.

Actually, I think the fronts are the same, it's the rears (lower mount) that's different. It's been coverd numerous times.

Yes, but won't the buyer have strut tops from their own suspension?