blind_elk

No, the DIFFS are shorter (4.375 vs GT-R's 4.111) I call it a "baby Godzilla" - all that is missing is 600cc and a turbo! Many of the mechanicals are interchangeable with the GT-R. But with a RB25DET ... now that's another story!

Drill the screw heads off (I think they are a 6mm threaded section, so use a 5mm drill bit), then remove the threaded bit with vice-grips.

I'm assuming you have a pretty standard setup. It's a LOT easier if you remove the I/C piping where it turns the corner to head off down through the skirt. Now, loosen the pivot bolt. You should be able to tell it's the pivot. It has a nut on one end - you will need to turn the P/S pulley so you can stick a socket through the hole on the pulley. To adjust the tension, there is a bolt on the underside (12mm head, IIRC) - hence the need to remove the I/C piping. Screw the bolt "in" to tension the belt . Tighten the pivot bolt. Replace the I/C piping.

How long have you had the problem? What have you done recently that might have upset the wiring? Remove ALL the globes (or disconnect the wire to the globe), including instrument cluster. Now add them back one at a time, until you find a combo that blows the fuse.

You have most probably not put the cable into the back of the speedo correctly. Or you've broken the end of the cable inner. The speedo sends a signal to the P/S system so it knows how much assistance to apply. If there is no speed, then no assistance is required.

And check all the connections on the back of the alternator.

Skylines are EXTREMELY sensitive to voltage. If you sudeenly lose voltage to any of the ECUs floating around in the car, they will start to misbehave. Replace the battery. And check the alternator and the fan belt.

Do you mean the courtesy light? In the roof lining? They are a pretty standard bullet-style (with the terminals at either end). You should be able to get an idea of the size from the light unit.

Must be one of those Mexican R33s :laughing-smiley-014: 1. Buying a new instrument cluster - simply swap the TACHO over to your cluster. 2. Take your TACHO to an instrument technician, not an auto elec.

The power restriction law is a condition on the licence. Your licence is NSW, so it doesn't have that condition.

The coils would still fire with less than optimal compression.carl, so you've tried a different coilpack in #4. And you've tried swapping that coil to another cylinder? It sounds like the circuit in the PFC has crapped its pants. Don't ask me why, though.

It connects to the ignitor module. (You're thinking of the coil packs)

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Each of those plugs connects to the ignitor module. Usually sits at the back of the engine, on the cam valley cover.

I find it's more of "heel - side-of-foot-ing" - I tend to roll my ankle so the side of my foot contacts the throttle pedal. It has become second nature to do it now - so much so that when I drive an auto (I drive autos like a manual) I heel-toe the throttle on down-changes

Use a hair dryer to heat and soften the adhesive. Use Eucalyptus Oil (or maybe metho) to remove the residual adhesive from the paint.

I think I might have used 2 12" extensions and a 14mm socket on a ratchet. Feed it in from near the alternator.

The relevant ADR is currently ADR43/04 Vehicle Configuration and Dimensions. The relevant paragraph is 6.4 . Wave that in Regency Park's face.

Never had a problem with Ultimates and (DBA) slotted rotors. Are you sure it's not that the dust has filled the slots? Have you actually measured the rotor thickness?

FWIW Drive in today's Age had a "road test" of a few units

All clutches (not just 5 / 9 button pucks) benefit from heel-toeing on downchanges. I think the more buttons, the more of a pig it is to drive generally.

It's basically saving the entire drive train. If you match the engine speed to the road speed, then everything just blends smoothly, without harshness.

This is from an oldish set, but there is an ADR (ADR 43/02) covering ground clearance:

This is from SA TRansport legislation: but, in the next paragraph: How fn stupid is that?

The jerking on downshift is basically independent of pucks. It's all a matter of driving style. The blip is called "heel-toeing'. The reason you get the jerk is that the engine and gearbox are not spinning at the same speed for the gear you are selecting. Heel-toeing matches the engine speed to the gearbox (road) speed.