blind_elk

Without a connection to the actuator, the wastegate never gets a signal to open. So the turbo just keeps building boost, until the engine spits 6 pistons out through the bonnet of the car. With that hose venting boost to atmosphere, the wastegate doesn't get the full boost signal (it's acting like a bleed valve), so you risk getting same result as above. In the worst case, that hose should be plugged (a small bolt is sufficient). In the best case, it probably should be connected to the wastegate (or boost controller).

I've re-used them without any adverse effects. That isn't to say I shouldn't have, though.

If you don't have a connection onto the wastegate actuator, then you are lucky you still have an engine! But I think that hose is connected directly to the compressor housing, so it will be venting boost straight out to atmosphere.

You have a serious case of blow-by. I saw it on a 34 GT-R - hit boost and fill the catch can. Turned out to be a cracked piston.

Also referred to, in engineering speak, as "VFT"

Found SMB: Sydney Melbourne Brisbane Car Express is a Car Transporter located in Williamstown VIC Australia Where is it? 11 Fink Street Williamstown VIC 3016 How to contact them? (1800) 262085 Or it might be: Unit D, 55 Cherry Lane, Laverton N Ph 1300 362 085 Email:[email protected] Anyway, I've sent them an email enquiry - see what happens.

If you aren't bringing the gearbox with the engine, then you have to disconnect / remove the driveshaft between the transfer case and front diff.

What's wrong with public transport? (what's right with it? )

I've always found the filler plug around 50mm above the drain plug. Look harder.

Just asked TNT who pointed me to CEVA Logistics (1300 655 594). They quoted $470 to bring car from Bris -> Mel. (Mel -> Bris around $800) Toll Logistics quoting $427 Bris -> Mel

Not listed under "SMB". Closest is SMB Fleet Management (Novation Leasing)

It's been covered dozens of times - SEARCH

Or you could drive my new 180B SSS back!But I think I'd like to truck it - it's a 1-owner 1973 model, with only 22,300 MILES on the clock. Driving it back would nearly double the odometer LOL

Manual. And if I HAVE TO drive an auto, it gets driven like a manual ie change down a gear before corners.

Talk to Daniel at DJM Automotive in Burwood - 98082590 - tell him Greg sent you.

I would expect any of the transporters would give you a good rate back from Brisbane. The majority of trucks must come back empty, so any $ is a bonus for them. EDIR: Sorry - you're going TO Brisbane (my bad reading).

A GTS-4 has AWD, just like a GT-R. There should be drive shafts to the front wheels. Otherwise, you simply have a 4-door. And of course you will light up the arse end if you don't have the AWD system.

It's not a GTS 4-door is it? You don't need to jack the car. You should be able to see a drive shaft and the front diff housing (under the starter motor) by peering in the engine bay.

I have a set of 17x7.5, with B/S Potenza GIIIs (about 50%) you can borrow. You will need Allen key style nuts for them.

Factory recommendation is a 7.5W-30. You want an oil that is a 30 at operating temp. The 7.5 is only relevant to how quickly the oil will circulate at cold startup. In winter, maybe a 5W over a 10W, but really doesn't matter all that much.

You realise your car is now unroadworthy? Both tyres on the same axle must be identical - same brand, same width, same diameter, same tread pattern (except for when using the spare). And which idiot installed an odd tyre in the first place? Was it new? Or used?

Welcome aboard. www.whiteline.com.au has most suspension parts you are likely to need.

I don't think 32 GTS-ts have a boost solenoid (GT-Rs do, but GTS4 definitely doesn't).

No, just top it up.

Pretty certain all the GT-Rs came with ABS standard. So you probably just need the bits for the non-ABS GTSt.