blind_elk

I managed to do the swap with the gearbox still in the car, ie seperate engine from gearbox, lift engine out. AFAIK, there isn't any articles on the sump swap. The sump doesn't use a gasket, it uses special sealant. Much safer, and simpler, to only swap the actual differential units (even if the nut on the pinion is torqued to VFT). If you want to swap the whole sump, it will be basically "undo nuts, remove sump, fit new sump, do up nuts".

Yes, if you are happy to keep the 4.375 ratios, then you only you need to swap the front diff from the RB20 into the RB25. It's easier to swap the actual diff rather than swap the whole sump - no guarantee they are interchangeable. Simply remove the front cover from the diff housing, and the diff almost falls out. Have fun undoing the nut on the pinion (it is matched to the crown wheel on the diff carrier, so it needs to swap also). If you really need rapid acceleration, then stick to the R32 ratios. Frankly, I have found that the RB25DET has more than sufficient torque / power to accelerate a R32 pretty quickly. If you do the swap to the Stagea ratios, you will need to have the crown wheel and pinion for the rear swapped onto the RB20 centre in the RB20 housing - the housings are slightly different externally, and the Stagea is a 5-bolt driveshaft flange (R32 is a 6-bolt flange). If you do swap to the Stagea ratios, you will (eventually) need to replace the speedo drive gear in the gearbox - speedo will read about 5k UNDER at 60, ie 55 indicated = 60 actual. I'm using a GT-R one (it's close enough, considering speedo inaccuracy).

Ratios are different. Staggy = 4.083, R32 = 4.375 . You MUST match the front and rear ratios. I stuck the Stagea ratios in (had to get new rear diff, swapped crown wheel and pinion onto R32 centre) because I found the RB25DET has waaayy too much torque to need 4.375 ratios. NFI about the button.

Not on a R33 it doesn't. R33 has electric HICAS, only the R32 used P/S fluid.

"Hunting" is generally a sign of a gummed up AAC valve. And the O2 sensor is unlikely to be used at idle, or when the engine is not up to operating temp. So, if you only do short trips that don't get the engine up to temp properly, then you are going to chew petrol. How to test - check the voltage coming off the middle wire of the sensor - it should be oscillating around 0.5V (say 0.3 - 0.7). If it is constantly high (1V) or low 0V) then there is a chance your O2 sensor is cactus. You might also want to check that the sensor is getting 12V on one of the other 2 wires.

Yes, I find it's more a "roll the side of your foot onto the pedal" than a "hit the pedal with your heel"

Ok, I've made a booking. I expect 8 people to show up and donate blood from 10:10am on Sunday 29 July at the Southbank donation centre. All those wishing to inundate me with offers to attend should do so to: [email protected] It is now possible to book your next donation when you give this donation, so I shouldn't have to stress myself about organising these days again.

It might be a "wear spot" in the TPS which is telling the ECU that it should "fuel cut on overrun". When it happens, move the acc pedal, see if it kicks back into life. Also, try and borrow a mate's TPS and see if you can replicate the problem.

Ever consider the sender might be kaput? Have you tried using the sender from your old RB20? To confirm the gauge works (which presumably it did before), try earthing the sender wire (with IGN = ON) - if its the same as for oil pressure, the temp gauge should go to "full scale".

No. There should be a separate key that fits a "lock" in the back of the siren. ricsvtr - when you disconnect the battery, the alarm goes onto its backup battery and sets off the siren. I guess it's a means of preventing thieves from simply disconnecting the battery to stop the alarm working.

[search] is your friend, and will provide you with the correct answer to your dilemma. (Hint: low brake pads make a horrible rubbing noise)

The negative is not necessarily red. It is usually a single large cable; if you follow it, you should find the other end connected directly to the chassis. But it really doesn't matter which terminal you disconnect. As for the alarm, there should be a key to turn off the siren.

Then it's not the R34 that you are thinking of lowering.You can buy lowering springs "off the shelf", that will keep the ride height within legal limits. In general, they are also a stiffer spring, but my experience has generally been that a stiffer spring actually improves the ride and comfort. As long as you don't "dump" the suspension. A search through this forum will suggest any number of manufacturers and suppliers.

Tubes won't prevent the tyre throwing the tread. NEVER skimp on tyres - they are all that is connecting the car and you to the road.

If the sump has been leaking, it's possible the engine mounts have been affected by the leaking oil. I suspect you are going to have to lift the engine a bit so you can manoeuvre the sump around the oil pickup. If you've lifted it up (and disconnected the mounts), may as well replace them. Probably the most important point is that the surfaces must be CLEAN. So lots of clean rags and gallons of metho. And a tonne of patience.

There was a thread - couple of years ago now - suggesting that to install / remove a RB26 + gearbox, the best way is to drop the whole assembly out on the X-member ie, lift car up and drop X-member / suspension. So to install, mount the engine + gearbox on the (removed) X-member, then raise the whole thing up to the body. You can refit the engine and install the gearbox, or you can refit the gearbox, then install the engine to the gearbox.

Regulator is built into the alternator. But probably just as cheap to replace outright than try and diagnose and fix.

How old is the battery?

The bearing measurement is the same as the big-end journal? Standard specification bearing thickness is 1.502 -1.506 mm, so 44.96 (big end) - 2 x 1.5 (bearing thickness) = 41.96 (bearing inner diameter / big end journal)

No.

BP in Lorne appeared to have Ultimate as I drove past yesterday.

And it doesn't seem to give you any more road manners. Case in point. Went on NDSOC's annual GOR drive yesterday. We got stuck behind a big red Lambo (Countach, I think). The only place the Lambo seemed capable of going at any sort of pace was where the road was "straight". Any twisty stuff - "crawlsville". Our lead driver was in a 260Z, not the fastest 260 in the world. He was giving the Lambo a severe "hurry up". Headlights, horns. The Lambo seemed totally disinterested. Wouldn't pull into the turnouts to let us past. Just basically ignorant. James, wasn't likely one of your "too rich" clients, was it?

If you get a half-cut, then all you should have to do is swap the loom and ECU over. I treated myself to a new ECU (Wolf 3D 4+), which I had to wire in - that took me a couple of days sorting out which wires I needed to keep, and which wires I could discard. As they say in the classics ... "CUBIC INCHES COUNT". The RB25DET conversion is well worthwhile. My GTS4 went from 115 at all 4 to 180 at all 4. I doubt you could get that result for the same $$ rebuilding a RB20.

Ok, I have a Stagea diff that I have taken the crown wheel and pinion out of. It still has the centre in it. You are welcome to the whole thing, and get your gears swapped over. We can discuss a deal on the 2-way later.

The ECU can only control the timing if it knows where the pistons are in the combustion cycle. Guess what the CAS does?