blind_elk

My money is on piston slap of the cold piston in the bore. Forgies need to be HOT to work properly.

Page 30 of the Road Rules handbook (Giving way to pedestrians):

I'm planning a trip up to the Flinders Ramges next weekend. So I took the spacesaver around to the local servo to check the pressure, just in case I need to use the spare. I can't seem to find the recommended pressure. The sidewall has "4.2 kg/cm2" on it, but that's over 60 psi! Anyway, I put 30 psi in it, does that sound about right? (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...saver++pressure is the only thing I could find that mentions pressure in a spacesaver)

As you stand in front of the engine bay and stare down on the crank pulley, the timing marks move from left to right (in LHD, that's from passenger side to driver side). So the first mark you see is 30 BTDC, then 5 deg decrements to 0 (TDC). (Note - 15 BTDC is the same mark, regardless of which end of the marks you start from) I have observed that some timing lights "double" the reading, so to get 15 BTDC actual, you need to set it up at 30 BTDC.

See you all there.

Media Release: http://www.dpc.vic.gov.au/domino/Web_Notes...33;OpenDocument Specifically: I read this as "I don't care whose car it is, you were hooning"

AFAIK, it doesn't matter who owns the car - if you are caught, the car goes. So if it was your mate's car, chances are he won't be your mate (or you won't be his mate) for too long. And why is a 1980 Corona Fastback such a hoot? Has no-one considered it might be highly modified?

My first instinct is the pump dying. The unshielded pod wouldn't be helping, though. I don't think you have an overheating problem - the engine fan should see to that. The position of the temp gauge needle sounds about right.

Isn't there a second button on the driver's side - to "lock" the passenger window?

Will you take $50 for all of them - 4 motors and the switch unit? I can come and pick them up.

Have you still got any (working) window motors and the window control switch panel (in the centre console)?

I know mine has a bit of wear in the rack, and I get a similar wander even with gentle driving around town. A dead shock should be pretty simple to diagnose with a "bounce test".

How are the rack ends? You might have a bit of wear that is allowing dynamic changes to toe.

They look better when they sit a bit lower. However, the fronts end up with next to no clearance on the bumpstops, so the slightest bump is a b***h. Pedders make a set of front and rear lowered, uprated springs - around the $150 a set. (I happen to have such a set if you are intersted.) 15" rims and 60 profile tyres don't hurt either (happen to have a spare set of those, too).

So the rears are smaller rolling diameter, and causing the ATTESSA ECU to think that you have wheelspin. Also, just because the tyres are "the same size" doesn't necessarily mean they have the same rolling diameter.Swap the fronts and rears and the gauge will behave itself.

At IGN on - 3 kg/cm2 Idle - 2.5 kg/cm2 Idle, with pressure reg vacuum disconnected - 3 kg/cm2

If it's not the AFM, then check the CAS is plugged in properly.

No, from the +ve post on the battery to the +ve clamp (that normally connects to the +ve post) (amps are measured in series, volts are measured in parallel).

Remove +ve battery terminal and measure amps (everything off) between battery post and terminal clamp. If you confirm a serious current draw, then you need to go through each fuse and work out which circuit(s) are drawing current.

Whole bunch of stuff that draws on the battery when everything is off, like the radio needs battery to maintain all the pre-set stations and its clock. The other common one is the boot light not turning off when the boot shuts. Do you have a multi-meter?

Mine sits on 0 at highway cruise (in fact, any-speed cruise). You probably have a reading because the rears and fronts aren't matched sizes and the ATTESSA computer thinks you have a bit of wheelspin. Try swapping the fronts and the rears and see what the gauge shows.

The more the merrier.

First mark is TDC (0 deg), then 5 deg increments to +30

It'll be OK, James. I know where you "live" lol. We only have 5 atm (4 SAU, 1 NDSOC). I'm hoping to drag a couple more from NDSOC tomorrow night, but there must be others in SAU who are eligible and not such wooses that they can become part of this elite group.

What exactly are you looking for? Do you want new coil packs? Or do you want a new wiring loom onto the coil packs? You need to get the vocabulary right so we can get the answer right.