blind_elk

I'm pretty certain the injectors fire in response to a signal from the CAS. Are they high impedance or low impedance injectors? To fill a cylinder to the point of hydraulicing the engine, the injector would have to be permanently open. Are you sure the re-map didn't put a huge time figure in the "start" fuelling parameter? You are just going to have to pull the rail and observe what the injectors are doing. Refit the originals to get the car to the workshop (it will probably run a bit lean, but as long as it's low-load, it shouldn't be a drama).

And what about that dufus "campaigner" - drives a '68 Monaro "HOON CAR OF THE 60s" LMAO.

DO NOT stick that stuff in your oil - it is INJECTOR cleaner, not LIFTER cleaner.

If the rims are the same size, then I would have the same size tyres all round. Allows you to rotate them to even out tyre wear.

Injectors are supposed to "tick". If it has only just started, it could be a stuck lifter - Nulon make stuff supposed to clear them. Or it could be "piston slap", where the piston and bore are becoming mis-matched for roundness.

Monaros (Pontiac GTO) have Chev engines. Joseph, you're after the gear for the timing belt, the gear that sits on the crankshaft? What about the Z32 VG30DE(T/TT)? Is it likely to have the same gear? You might try Ferntree Gully Nissan in Melbourne (I'm sure you can Google them).

AMBient ie outside temp. The sensor is on the driver's side, just in front of the radiator, below the headlamp. Unless you are in FNQ or Darwin or Alice Springs, then the temp being shown is quite possibly in error. Run a diagnostic on the A/C (there's a thread somewhere about it). If it needs regassing, then it probably wouldn't work at all, as it has a pressure switch to prevent operation when gas pressure is low.

Surely the RTA website should have all that information. But I pretty much doubt that the Soarer would be legal - both cars are basically the same weight, and I don't think that makes for safe towing. If you don't want a 4by, then you are probably looking at something like a F150/250.

I think I'd be replacing them (slotted, not x-drilled). By the time you get the ridges machined out of them, they will be under-thickness.

This is the factory spec., in the absence of any information that came with the ARP stuff. Head bolts - tighten in 5 stages 3 kg-m / 11 kg-m / 0 (ie back right off) / 3 kg-m / 10.5 - 11.5 kg-m Big End - 2 stages 1.4 - 1.6 kg-m, then 60 - 65 degrees Main bearing caps 4.7 - 5.3 kg-m

Are they Platinum, Iridium, or copper? You really don't need to clean the plugs if the engine has been running acceptably. The carbon is only going to re-coat the plug because that is what the fuel mixture and running conditions dictate should happen. The colouring of the plug is used as a diagnostic to indicate the general combustion conditions. They are not like teeth - they do not need to remain pearly white to work properly. And I'm pretty certain you DO NOT use solvent cleaners; wire brush if you have to clean them, although I'm not so sure Platinum and Iridium plugs take too kindly to that either.

Try upping the lower rev band to 17.

You really need to punch the shaft out of the differential housing. There is a recessed ring in the inner CV joint. If you try and use the hub to pull it out, you risk separating and / or damaging the CV joint.

Yes. But it really doesn't matter, because the timing light will grab its signal from the loop on the ignitor. Then you need to look harder. (The timing marks are visible from the passenger side of the engine bay)There is a thread raised in the last week or so that includes the diagram from the workshop manual.

What ignition timing is the PFC running below idle speed, ie in it 500rpm band?

Yes, will be at the meeting. See you then.

If the pump was mounted too high, you should be able to hear it screaming its lungs out when it "runs out of fuel"

You might have stated this, but did you bleed the master cylinder? Ordinarily you need to bleed the master cylinder, THEN bleed the rest of the system. You don't rely on the bleeding at the slave to bleed the whole system.

Kaz, got a spare book?

Same as the GTSt Look on www.dba.com.au for specifications

I'm using Bilsteins myself. As Roy said, you shouldn't short-change yourself on suspension. Probably even brand new Nissan replacements would be better than what you have now. KYBs are a good shock - you could do worse.

The DE is a much higher compression engine than the DET - you DO NOT want mega boost running through the engine, 7psi should be heaps. Over 7 it is probably preparing for detonation heaven. To the coils - have you swapped the #6 coil with one of the others, eg#5.? What happened?

How much freeplay do you have at the fork? Have you observed what is actually happening at the slave when you depress the pedal?

Your mechanic might be referring to the thickness being under-spec. Check out the rotor sizes at dba.com.au (same as GTSt).

I think Lee out at Melbourne Performance Centre in Bayswater has one of those DataLogit things. He recently did a pretty good job on my RB25DET / Wolf combo to stop it pinging incessantly. Don't know how he is with PFC, seems to prefer Motech.