blind_elk

Sorry, my bad. It's the voltage regulator (built into the alternator) that is kaput if the voltage output increases with revs. Probably just as easy to replace the alternator.

I managed to find one at Central Motor Wreckers in Ballarat - $4G, engine and (auto) gearbox only. All-up cost was around $8G, after converting the engine to accept manual gearbox, and adding Wolf 3D ECU. The Stagea runs 4.083 diff ratios - it is relatively easy to swap your current diff (crown wheel AND pinion gear) into the Stagea housing. I eventually changed to the Stagea ratios front and rear, because the RB25DET had so much more torque that I didn't need the standard (R32) 4.375 ratios

If the replacement ECU you install is a plug'n'play, then it should be OK. If you use a full re-wire unit, then it requires an aftermarket "black box" to get ATTESSA to work. I had to do this when I installed a WOLF in my GTS4 - I used a full re-wire (later found I could have used a GT-R plug'n'play) - so needed the Wolf black box to get ATTESSA back.

I did this conversion for my R32 GTS4 - I chose to use the Stagea engine. It is highly doubtful that a RB25DET (RWD) block can have a AWD sump bolted to it.

When you test the voltage output of the alternator, you are presumably testing at idle. Try raising revs to, say , 2000 and measure output. It should remain the same voltage (ie around 14V). If it increases, then the alternator is kaput - it is overcharging the battery, and overcharged batteries don't hold charge.

Lights, indicators are controlled by their own switches (no "ECU", so to speak). I'm not sure which way it works, but there is some reliance between ECU and tacho. The only thing I can say for sure is that the ATTESSA ECU needs an input from the TPS, via the main ECU.

If the wheel still runs "true", then it is most likely you have bent the stub-axle housing. That means a new trailing arm.

It's a semi-trailing A-arm. Same as 1600 / 180B / 200B. If you lower the car you will get negative camber, and toe-out. The camber can't be fixed AFAIK, but you can get offset bushes for the pivot point of the A-arm to correct the toe.

It does. But it also has 3 G-sensors (1 longitudinal and 2 lateral), and it also picks up on the output from the TPS.

ATTESSA takes ATF, basically. If you had a clutch replaced, then they probably had to disconnect the ATTESSA system to get the gearbox out. So, probably needs a proper bleed.

If the area around the fuel cap isn't damaged, you should be able to pop the panel back out from inside the boot. Might have a slight unevenness to it, but won't look as bad as it does now.

But it's still a high compression engine - something like 10.5:1 . It really needs a higher octane fuel - Get some Safeway fuel vouchers and use the Caltex Vortex 95 RON fuel.

I had some little dear sit in my car and steal the radio, while the (external) alarm went crazy. So now I have a Jaycar Screacher alarm (110dB @ 2kHz) mounted INSIDE the car. Just to remind any similar sweet things that they really were not welcome in my car.

When the radiator is COLD, remove the cap and make sure you have coolant visible in the top of the radiator. Then start investigating where it is disappearing to.

I have a set of the Whiteline adjustable bushes to suit a GT-R - $75 plus postage.

You've probably accidently activated the "fog lamps" switch - it's the push switch just above the main lamp switch.

Been there, done that. Even more than 20 years down the track, it still hurts sometimes. It's not a crime to cry.

Perfectly normal The engine is cold, the O2 sensor probe is cold, the ECU adds fuel (mixture rich). Engine is now warm, O2 sensor probe is hot, ECU running 'normal' mixture. ECU enrichens mixture under high loads.

I reckon. Check for stupid stuff like bits of lint wrapped around the needle shaft. It will probably free up with a liberal, but careful, dose of WD40.

Pretty certain it is replaceable, but possibly only as part of a (camber) kit. Try asking at www.whiteline.com.au

Simpler is to simply remove the throttle body (after removing X-over pipe), then remove 3 bolts holding the rail in place. I think, from memory, you need to pull some of the plumbing above #1, #2, but that will be obvious when you are doing it.

At cruise (constant load), it will continually cycle between a low value and a high, but overall should average out at 0.5V. This is the software in the ECU continually adjusting the fuel to achieve a stoichiometric A/F mixture. It cycles becuse it is reactive, and is so stupid that it can never actually learn what the correct value is. Under load (boost), it will read high, becaue the ECU is programmed to enrich the fuel component of the Air / Fuel mixture. When you back off (snap throttle shut, either in gear change, or sudden deceleration), it willl go to 0V (ultra lean) because the ECU has shut down the injectors for a short time.

It should be on the compliance plate - probably a FS5W71B, unless you've had a manual conversion done. AFAIK, they are unique to the R30; only possibility might be a SSS Stanza, but they are even rarer.

For the 14 millionth time: IT'S BASED ON THE "FACTORY" FIGURES

Does no-one know how to read - allblitz wants to install a AWD->2WD switch in his R33 GT-R, and needs to do it by inserting into the AWD circuit, near the AWD fuse. So, where's the AWD fuse in a R33 GT-R? Simple question, deserves a simple answer.