blind_elk

That's usually a crook AFM (switches to limp-home around 2500 rpm). Unless of course you can actually get it to go past the problem. Alternately, it's a SERIOUS detonation problem, with the ECU doing some serious spark retardation.

RWD, AWD, FWD - shouldn't be simply "dumping" the clutch. Be kind to the drivetrain and it will be kind to you.

It's "LIMP" home mode. What sort of revs are you pulling when it happens? Have you tried reproducing the problem on the dyno?

Could also try Craig at Trackside Tyres in Bayswater.

It may be related to the TPS - Skylines in general cut fuel to the injectors when the throttle closes and the engine is above about 1200 rpm. The Commodore might not do this. I know my R30 only does the fuel cut above 3200 rpm, so it rarely cuts fuel on throttle backoff. As a result, it tends to drive down hills. My R32 does do fuel cut, so it basically maintains speed down hills. It's almost like an engine brake.

I'm sure I have read somewhere that turbos do better with shorter duration than an equivalent N/A. It's something to do with the speed, not the volume, of exhaust gas turning the turbine. But it's also all the other parameters of camshafts - lobe centre, lobe separation, lift, overlap - that determine the overall result of a camshaft change.

The torque-split gauge sits up in the top left corner of the instrument cluster (where GTSts ahve the boost gauge). If you have AWD, then there should be 2 driveshafts between the sump and the front axles, and a driveshaft from the side of the gearbox forward to the diff housing on the engine sump.

Have you removed the rotor?

NO! You need one mark on the reference mark and 3 marks on the pulley to be to the LEFT of the reference mark. The pulley is rotating clockwise as you look at it from the front of the car, ie left to right. The first mark that matches the reference mark is 30BTDC. The next mark is 25, the next 20, and so on - the last (leftmost) mark is TDC.If you have 2 marks to the right (with one lining up with the reference mark), then you have 20BTDC (with the proviso of my previous post about the timing loop). Regardless, your mechanic should blooodywell know - find a new / decent one.

Max timing indicated on the crank is 30BTDC - each mark is 5 degrees. If you can register "20 or 25 degs", why have you retarded it past 15 down to 10?The other thing I have found is that if you use the "timing loop" on the ignitor module, some timing lights seem to indicate double the actual timing - so if you are seeing "10BTDC", it may well be that you actually have "5BTDC", which is totally inappropriate for a RB20. On the crank pulley, the rightmost mark is 30BTDC, the leftmost mark is TDC. If you want to get an accurate timing figure, you need to lift #1 coil off the spark plug and insert a spark plug lead between the coil and the spark piug - then you can always get an accurate reading. Advanced timing is simply "more timing", retarded is simply "less timing". If your mechanic says the timing is fully advanced, why the hell didn't he set it properly???? Generally when it is on a dyno, it is on a power run - the O2 sensors do not play any part under those circumstances. Did you pull it apart and clean the carbon build-up out of it?

Try: Cold start air valve, located under the plenum (near #5) Auxilliary (Idle) Air valve, on the back of the plenum Water temp sensor (single pin sensor, where top radiator hose joins inlet manifold).

Repco

Step 1 - SHIELD THE POD!!

In my expeience, thermo fans are the primary cause of these engines overheating when pushed. Partucularly when combined with FMICs that weren't there in the original design of the cooling system. Put the factory fan back - it's not worth an engine for the few kW a thermo fan releases.

The vacuum is behind the throttle plate. The air flowing in past the throttle plate to "fill" the vacuum is controlled by the position of the throttle plate. At a high vacuum - closer to -7 - less air can flow past the throttle plate (small throttle opening), so less air is flowing through the AFM. Less vacuum actually equates to more AFM airflow due to the wider opening of the throttle plate. You can only cruise at a given vacuum given the condition of the engine - to vary the vacuum, you need to change the throttle plate position, so you change speed, so you aren't "on cruise". If you study the maps in any programmable ECU (PFC, etc) you will notice that the injector times at low loads (high vacuum) are much shorter than those at higher loads (less vacuum, or boost).

WTF?????The code does not - repeat NOT - indicate that there has been knock happening. It is an error code, so it is alerting you to the fact that there is an error in the knock sensor circuitry somewhere.

0 is "atmospheric" pressure. -7 is vacuum , +7 is boost. And I'm sure there are posts around suggesting that the scale on the gauge is "x 100mm Hg", so the range is from -700mm Hg - 700mm Hg (760 is 1 bar or 14.7 psi)ALL engines cruise under vacuum, so your car should always have the boost gauge sitting between -7 & 0 under normal driving conditions. Only when you hit boost should the gauge indicate a reading > 0. Now back to the original problem - if the car feels like boost is working, then it is obviously a leak between the manifold and the gauge. If it feels like boost is not happening, but you can here the turbo working, then it is a problem with the plumbing between the turbo and the inlet manifold (slipped connection usually). If it feels like boost is not happening and you can't hear the turbo, then it's likely a dead turbo (probably blown exhaust wheel).

Are you still running the factory fan? Do you still have the small undertray under the radiator? Do you have a thick FMIC? Any other things not "factory"?

Calculations suggest you need something like a 33.7 profile to maintain the same rolling radius as a 225/45x17. So I reckon the 35 profile is correct.

It sounds like the diff trying to lock up. Don't ask me why, but these problems seem to have something to do with the connection onto the TPS - try cleaning the terminals there, and see what happens.

Use the highest reasonable gear - so around town, I use 4th, and 5th on the highway. No point ringing it's neck in 2nd or 3rd.

Won't Nengun have them? Otherwise, check Enzed (www.enzed.com.au) or Pirtek (www.pirtek.com.au) - they might be able to help you out. BTW, I think they'll be brass, not steel.

I'm still trying to get my rebuilt RB25DET to run in properly (not sure if it has or not). My initial attempt was simply putting miles on the engine, and a lot of those were highway. And I "nursed" the engine, driving like grandma. Wasn't very successful. I was advised to use a good quality mineral oil (I'm using BP Visco 2000), and you need to load the engine. So every opportunity I get, if I'm driving up a hill, let the car slow to around 50 kph (around town - on highway slow to 80 - 90), then floor it. This will load the engine - you can let it produce some boost, because this is load on the engine, and will force the rings out against the bore. Unfortunately, this all goes against my nature - I now need to "hoon" around the place so I load the engine at every opportunity.

Have a look here: http://www.rb20det.com/exhaustgassensordiagram.html

You seem like one of these people who goes to the doctor - "Doc, my head hurts, what's wrong?" You simply neglect to tell doc that you got whacked on the head with a hammer. But that would have made the diagnosis far too easy!We aren't bloody mind readers - tell us what happens when you try and start the car.