blind_elk

Really, go and see your local Nissan dealer.

ie, when the engine starts to overheat with the A/C on. The 'switch-on' point of the switch is a few degrees above the thermostatted temp of the engine.As I said in the post of mine that you found, the standard engine fan is usually capable of pulling enough air through the A/C radiator to control its temperature.

Strongly doubt it. Methanol is NASTY. They probably have Methylated Spirits (Ethanol denatured with Methanol)(Methanol in the methylated spirits is what ultimately causes blindness in alcoholics)

Newsagents. Not sure how many carry it though. I got a copy of the article (page 72) in an email from NDSOC. Maybe ask at www.mnews.com.au .

Had you done a search, you would have found .....

There's an article in very latest Motorsport News; our very own Snowman, Jamezilla, Scotsman(?) and Roy get honourable mentions.

Sounds like a dead short to earth somewhere in that Hi-beam's circuit. Any idea if the car has been smashed on that side? It may have pinched a wire. The latest (for low beam) is probably a matter of time - it was due to happen. R32 lights are not the brightest at the best of times. I can only suggest a thorough inspection of every component and wire in the circuit(s). Get a small file (nail file ?) into the fuse holder and clean it up.

If Rosberg managed fastest lap, then clearly Williams has the pace (it's not like Alonso and Schumaker didn't have oportunities to set fastest lap). If Williams has that much pace, why the hell did Webber only manage to finish in 6th place?

I just went to my local Autobarn and bought whatever they had. Seem to work OK. Only problem I've ever had is that they tend to twist along the coil - just keep an eye on them and keep them parallel as best you can. The horror stories would come from not using them - simply undoing the top nut while the spring is under compression, parts shoot off everywhere.

The tyre manufacturer should have a recommended running pressure. But try 36 front, 34 rear (cold).

No, because I've now got some Kings lows fitted. But it is probably within the recommended lowering for a 32.Maybe have a look in my photo gallery, there's a couple of pics up there that might give you an idea.

The globes are "twin filament", ie 2 filaments, 1 for brakes, 1 for tail lights. I'm confident the brake light filament is kaput. But, as Jordan has suggested, try swapping it around to see if the problem follows the location of the bulb.

I have a set of standard, reset / lowered springs for a GTS4. $100 for all 4.

The one in the bottom tank of the radiator is a simple thermal switch. It switches a relay that activates the A/C fan.If you hook into the switched output of that relay (on a 32, it's 2nd from the back, I think), and use that to switch a relay that powers your thermo fans.

If you're in Melbourne, you bring a trailer and $600 round to my place - I still have the RB20 that I took out of the R32.

Great to someone who wants to get started young. Contact the Kyenton Car Club - they have a junior series (something like that). Also contact CAMS in Melbourne, I seem to recall they are taking Kyneton CCs idea on board to get it going in other car clubs throughout Vic and even Australia. www.cams.com.au can get you all the info. As for making money from motorsport, I think this is attributable to Paul Stoddart : How can you make a small fortune in motorsport? Start with a big fortune!

S2 coils have inbuilt ignitors, I believe the S1 coils require an ignitor module (same as RB20).

There are other threads on pulling the drive shafts. And once you get in there and LOOK, all will become clear.

Actually, did it recently (someone else's car!), but everything still worked fine.

You can touch it. It is used to put the ECU into diagnostic mode. Turn ignition to ON, then rotate the dial fully clockwise, hold 2 seconds, then rotate back to where it was. The LED next to the screw will start flashing a code (or series of codes) - <search> for how to interpret the flashes, and what the codes mean. The other use is (apparently) a fine control for idle speed; however I've never really noticed any difference when i've twiddled it.

The RB20's bore is considerably smaller than the RB25 / 26 / 30. Therefore the combustion chamber is considerably smaller (in both capacity and diameter). So the risk is that the pistons will be smashing into the rim of the combustion chamber every time they come up to TDC. And the compression ratio will probably become way to much for a turbo system. Added to that, there are some alignment problems between oil galleries in the RB20 head and the RB30 block. Just about every RB30DET uses a RB25DE(T) head - I am aware of only 1 successful RB20DET head transplant onto a RB30 block.

Don't need to remove the sump. You need to remove both front driveshafts. Then you need to move the shaft that runs through the sump; undo the six bolts on the passenger side flange, and move the shaft sideways towards the passenger side. Then remove the front cover plate on the diff housing; the crown wheel and centre will come out. If you need to swap the pinion gear, first remove the front drive shaft (the one coming forward fromn the transfer housing). Then you need to lock the flange against the sump (a cold chisel works well) and get a B I G breaker bar to undo the pinion retaining nut; the pinion gear removes through the front of the housing.

From memory, you can leave the brakes assembled. You need to disconnect the lower control arm from the hub, and also disconnecting the swaybar link helps as well. That allows the whole hub assembly to pivot far enough that you can pull the spline out the back of the hub. Then remove the inner end of the shaft from the diff.

Stagea. Engine cost me $3500; I did all the installation myself. Tell me where you can get a RB20DET for that money that is pushing maybe 240 kW off the flywheel?

Oi. I represent those remarks carl, put a RB25DET in, it will almost beat hands down a modded RB20DET. My RB20DET punched a whopping 115 kW through all 4; the RB25DET, running aftermarket ECU and crap 95 octane (Oz octane) and 10psi pushed 180 out through all 4 wheels. I figure that's close to a stock GT-R, and beats the crap out of those 5 litre lumps of cast iron V8 push-rod crap that can't even push that off the flywheel.