blind_elk

If there wasn't oil coming out the filler plug, then you don't have enough oil in there.

Won't be the inhibitor - all that does is prevent the engine starting if the trans is in gear. Have you checked the transmission fluid level?

The engine will warm up quicker if you drive the car. And you might as well be getting somewhere while you're burning all that fuel. I climb in the car, fire up the engine, reverse out the driveway and on my way. Keep it under about 3000 rpm until the needle starts to move. Cooling down - forget timers; the best timer is inside your head. Just drive sensibly for the last 1km or so before you reach your destination, and you can pretty safely simply switch off the engine.

Been there, done that (RB25DET into R32 GTS4). RB25DET certainly worth the effort. I did just an engine upgrade, and aftermarket ECU (Wolf). But I would recommend a half-cut, particulary if the RB25 has VVT.

All starter motors are basically the same; manual, auto, RB20, RB25. A RB20 SM would work, but might not have the same grunt as one designed for a RB25, ie might struggle a bit to spin the motor.

Almost. Methanol, Ethanol, etc all have a polar end (the alcohol OH group) and a non-polar end (the alkyl CnHm group). That way, they dissolve in both polar and non-polar liquids. That's why you can use Methylated Spirits (ethanol denatured with methanol) to "dissolve" water into petrol. Anyway, back to the original question - I really don't know how the methanol would affect the octane. But I do recall hearing somewhere that methanol burns much cooler, and requires a much "richer" mixture - the figure of a 4:1 stoichiometric ratio springs to mind.

WHAAATTT????? Of course it will mix with petrol. What on earth gave you that idea???

It should be obvious where the screw would go to hold the indicator assembly in. Problem is that the tab often breaks off. I found a large diameter washer that manages to reach far enough to sandwich what was left of the tab. If you want pics, you'll have to wait until tonight.

Yep, did that, but I then tried a "preview post", and it seemed to sit there for ages with the status bar saying "waiting (or maybe contacting) for sau.com". So I ended up hitting my "Back" button - never hit the "add reply" tag though. [edit1]Oops, looks like I just need to be patient about it all. Now just need to figure out how to position it in the post! [edit2]OK, just figured that as well! Not bad for an "old dog"

There should be 2 connections - a Throttle Position Switch (tells ECU if throttle closed or WOT) and a Throttle Position Sensor (tells ECU exactly how much throttle). I have never heard of an engine pinging on deceleration (low load situation). Most EFI engines switch off the injectors on "throttle closed" (in gear changes or full backoff) - if it's going to run lean, then no fuel will do it, but engines don't ping / detonate under these conditions, otherwise manufacturers wouldn't build it in. Following heavy boost, the air temp is probably too high (even with a FMIC) - check the PFC's air temperature compensation.

Here's a link to the story (I guess), but no photos: http://www.heraldsun.news.com.au/common/st...55E2862,00.html

Sorry, was trying to attach a pic of the nasty black clouds that rolled in late - thought I had backed it all out.

Tell your mate he's a wanker. As with any petrol ignition engine, you can't adjust / set the timing while the engine is off. It needs to be running - at normal operating temp - and you check the timing with a timing light while you make the adjustments. If you retard the timing, part of the burn, and therefore the power production, happens too late, and can even happen after TDC - as the piston is already on its way down the bore. Doesn't make for good power production. Advance it and you ensure the maximum burn rate, and therefore maximum power production, occurs just before TDC. Advance it too far and you induce pre-ignition (pinging / detonation)

The "smaller" one (left of the 2 thumbnails) might be a non-HICAS pump.

This finished the day:

You probably haven't run-in the engine properly.

RB20 seems to be around 2.8 - 3.2 kg-m. I'd guess the RB25 is very similar.

Weld a wheel stud onto the bush, and use a slide hammer to drift it out.

It's ATTESSA. You won't lose ABS or HICAS (4WS) by changing the ECU; you will only lose AWD if you do it wrongly.

RB25DET simply bolts straight in. And everything mechanical connects up. At least you don't need a new exhaust and intake setup.Either engine, you need to re-loom and re-ECU it.

You haven't got a tyre which is nearly flat, have you?

GT-R is wider than the GTSt. So a GT-R bar won't fit. But some people make a "GT-R copy" bar to suit GTSts.

Not all GTS4s have the sticker - mine doesnt. So, on the road, it is indistinguishable from a GTS(t).

Which part# pad did you get. Pretty sure you should have got DB1170 (front) or DB1220 (rear)

Canada has a different octane rating system, so 94 is probably OK. Merilious, what is the base ignition timing? The CAS should have some adjustment available. The CAS might be on 1 tooth out, because of a broken locating key in the end of the camshaft, but I doubt it (it usually moves the CAS too far for the engine to even start).