blind_elk

Have you played with the rotary switch up on the instrument binacle? That is the most common cause for faulty headlamp operation.

My bet is the fuel pump is dying, the popping is actually running lean, and the loss of power is knock sensors retarding timing.

Water pump, in my experience, is normally not a problem in itself (only if it springs a leak through the shaft bearing / seal). First off, I would check, and probably replace, the thermostat; it's probably not opening properly. If that doesn't work, I would suggest a proper cleanout (remove, de-tank, ream cores) on the radiator.

The R32 doesn't have struts. The bars work like an anti-roll bar in the suspension to try and hold the boot open. Make sure the rods are not broken (it needs to be more than "they don't appear to be broken"), and the ends are properly bolted down. If you have to, climb in the boot with a light and inspect everything.

The water doesn't boil for 2 reasons:1. It's under pressure - pressure affects the boiling point of water. On top of Mt Everest you can't have HOT coffee because the boiling point of the water is so reduced by the low atmospheric pressure. Inversely, higher pressures RAISE the boiling point. 2. The "coolant" chemically modifies the water so it boils at a higher temperature. For the same reason, they spread salt on icy roads because the salt lowers the freezing point of water. Basically this is why you NEVER remove the radiator cap from a hot engine - the water is likley to go "super-heated", and suddenly turn to steam.

Have you tried Steve at Speed Technology in Mitcham (98735400)

Labelled "AWD" lol - 2nd (?) from left, top row. I was pretty sure the honeycomb was all catalyst - that's why it's so easy to "de-catalyst" them. But it could be catalyst-coated steel, I guess.

Had a similar problem when some little POS (sorry, mother's darling) tried to steal my Z; the Jaycar In-car alarm must have gone off just as he started to insert a key in the ignition. Must have scared the crap out of him, because the key snapped off in the switch. Had to remove the ignition and take it to a locksmith who was able to pull it all apart and retrieve said key. The boot release probably doesn't work because the "switch" in the boot is set to "valet mode" (prevents the remote opening the boot, but still lets the key open it). A locksmith might be able to pick the lock. Otherwise, you may need to pull the back seat out to access the latch from inside. Have fun!

I can only say that the dual failures are coincidental; it is highly improbable that one would cause the other. You've checked the AWD fuse down by your right knee? You might need to pull the cat out and check that it hasn't got itself blocked (from melted catalyst). If the "somebody else" was a mechanic, and it was OK before he had it, then he'd better fix it. If it was "a mate", then he won't be getting the car again, will he?

If you use the wildcard * you can search for "air*", "CAI*". Anyway, I kept the standard airbox. I removed the LH headlamp and removed the stock POS airduct from the underside, then replaced headlamp. With the hole that is left, I fitted some flexible 3" corrugated hose; it squeezes through the hole in the radiator support panel and into the triangular fitting on the airbox. The other end hangs down to just above the duct that feeds the standard IC.

Check connection onto CAS. Also, the ignitor modules are susceptible to excessive heat, and cause misfires.

BHDave, weren't you talking ECU box, not gearbox? Because the RB20 manual gearboxes don't have any electrics (except usual reverse light stuff), unlike the autos. As for the gearbox, I kept the RB20 box, it's easily handling 180 Awkw.

Yes, just use brake fluid

If you are in Melbourne, I have a set here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=100325&hl=

Frankly, I'm not one for believing you can "blow out" the spark because of a bit of extra boost. When the spark is fired, the combustion space is closed (has been closed since about 55 ABDC). There may be a bit of swirl caused by the upward movement of the piston, but nearing the ignition point, the piston hardly has any vertical velocity. So I can't imagine enough turbulence to actually extinguish the spark. A poor spark is usually a sign of a poor ignition system; closing down the gap is only a band-aid fix, and masks the true problem of a weak ignition system. That said, 42psi at idle is too much. The handbook says 2.5 bar (36 - 37 psi) at idle, 3 bar at IGN = ON (pre-start), or at idle with FPR airfeed disconnected. Have you replaced the coil -> spark contacts? Have you cleaned all grease and dirt off the sparkplug protectors on the coils? Have you had the injectors cleaned recently? Open the gap back to "standard" (1.1mm).

The adjuster rod adjusts the pedal rest-height only. Because it is fully hydraulic, the clutch is basically self-adjusting. As the clutch wears, the "pickup point" (clutch engagement point) gets lower. Once you run out of pickup point, time for a new clutch.

Probably. I've seen articles that describe "clutch is to the drivetrain as a fuse is to any electrical component". So, as you start putting too much torque through the clutch, it will eventually reach a point where the clutch will slip, thus reducing the torque delivered to the other components of the drive train. If you uprate a fuse, you increase the risk of damaging the electrical component(s) on that fuse's circuit. Similarly, if you upgrade the strength of the clutch, then the torque from the engine starts looking for the next "weakest link", and this will likely be a gear, either in the diff or in the gearbox.

I always run with the window down. Helps me stay cool, and allows easy hand signals to other drivers if they want to pass me. Get the best helmet you can afford - it's your head, after all. And really, the cost is almost irrelevant - over the life of the helmet. you will spend much more on mods, maintenance, entry fees, fuel.

Does it sound like it wants to fire? Or is the engine simply spinning over? Does the LTX tell you anything that is happening? Some things to try: 1. Disconnect the fuel line (return line probably best) and have a container to catch any fuel. 2. Prime the engine. Do you get fuel? 3. If "Yes", crank engine. Fuel still? If "Yes", then clearly fuel side is working. Re-connect fuel line. 4. Use a screwdriver as a stethoscope to listen to the injectors while cranking. 5. Lift coil pack #1 from the spark plug, insert a standard spark plug lead between coil and plug, connect timing light. 6. Crank engine. Timing light strobes? 7. Failing that, pull #1 plug as well, and assemble the coil / plug and observe if the plug sparks while cranking. 8. Check the earth connection for the ignitor module. All this cranking, it's quite probable the engine has flooded. You might have to pull all the plugs and clean them up.

Tried it on a R32 GTS4. Had problems with overheating because the air would not go through the radiator properly. Even on the highway, 23 C, on a slight incline the fan would switch on. On the racetrack, bloody hopeless. So I put the factory clutch fan back on (left the thermo pilot light in place) - the light came on after 4 laps of QR on a 30C day. I figured it needed massive investment in design and fitting a system to ensure the air went through the radiator. And maybe bonnet vents to let the air out of the engine bay. For the few kw you will gain, not worth the effort - or the engine.

I have a set of 17x7.5s for sale - not GTR rims though. There's a pic in my "Garage Sale" thread, or you can see them on a car in the members' gallery somewhere. Just not sure I want a set of 18s in exchange.

Then it's likely you should be looking for a new gauge, not a new sender. Try connecting the sender wire direct to earth - the gauge should go full-scale.

Start by having a look here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=52811&hl= And there are other threads with more info / details.

Here's what I did on my 32: :http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=26307&hl=

There's 2 of them in that general location - do you want the single-pin (for the temp gauge) or the dual-pin (for the ECU)?