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blind_elk

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Everything posted by blind_elk

  1. blind_elk
    You may well have damaged the head gasket. Get a compression test and a leak-down test done on the engine.
  2. blind_elk
    The top one screws into the bottom one.
  3. blind_elk
    I've got the whole foglamp assembly (pair) - $80 and they're yours.
  4. blind_elk

    Remote Start

    blind_elk replied to CSNet's topic in Victoria

    Bloody SOFTY!!!!
  5. blind_elk
    If the ABS is working properly, when you stomp the brake pedal, you should get a pulsation back through the pedal as the ABS continually slackens off and re-applies the pressure to the fluid.
  6. blind_elk
    Theory - the rears always have the same "angle of attack" on the road surface. The fronts are forever changing (steering), so they are subjected to higher lateral frictional forces. Sounds good to me.
  7. blind_elk
    The 26 cams are an upgrade for the RB20. The RB20 cams have less lift, and a different profile and timing to the cams in the 26. And actually, different incarnations of the 26 have different cam sets installed (different timing, overlap, etc).
  8. blind_elk
    I fitted what I was told was a clutch / flywheel assembly for a RB20 onto the back of a RB25 and slotted the engine into an R32 (GTS4), still with std 'box. It was an Extreme / Exedy HD pressure plate and, I think, a ceramic spring-centre driven plate. It is "heavier" than a standard setup, and has been handling 180 AwkW.
  9. blind_elk
    = passenger side.You should also have a warning light for the ABS in the instrument panel - it will light up before you switch the key fron ON to START.
  10. blind_elk
    The air that is being bled off by the boost controller - where does it go to?
  11. blind_elk
    Do they still work on "Hazard"? I've had some issues with the indicator stalk (switch) clogging up with dirt and stuff. I found I needed to jiggle it a bit to get the right connection to get the indicators working (only on one side). It's a relatively straight-forward job to remove the stalk assembly and give it a bit of a clean out in switch mechanism.
  12. blind_elk
    You should be aware from the current exercise of the time and effort involved in accessing the clutch. That equates to $$$$. I would suggest that while it's all apart, take the opportunity to replace (upgrade?) the clutch. It might cost a couple 100 now, but it will cost a lot more when you really need to replace the clutch.
  13. blind_elk
    The light is a warning of a problem in the ATTESSA system. If the light is on, then AWD is disabled.
  14. blind_elk
    Do you know which cylinder is "switching off" when it runs on 5? The ignitor modules are almost famous for breaking down with heat and age. I'm pretty certain a cracked plug will always cause problems (hot or cold).
  15. blind_elk
    I'm not convinced you are talking about what the rest of us know to be thrust bearings. There is only one thrust bearing, and its the thing that presses on the fingers of the clutch pressure plate when you depress the clutch pedal. It should have been replaced when you had your clutch done, so it shouldn't really be getting noisy by now. What exactly are the symptoms you are experiencing?
  16. blind_elk
    You're having a lend of us, right?
  17. blind_elk
    I think you will find that the PFC has been told that that setting is 20. So even if you change the CAS, the PFC should still say 20. You need to make the PFC agree with the actual timing (via a timing light).
  18. blind_elk
    That's an "engine only" manual, and also covers other engines in the R32 range.If you want the real deal, www.pitstop.net.au in Perth or Technical Bookshop in Melbourne can get the genuine Nissan translation.
  19. blind_elk
    Use fog lights only. They are mounted low so they shine under the fog. Headlamps - hi or lo beam - will reflect back off the fog.
  20. blind_elk
    WTF were you doing racing people on the streets? You're a DI(KHEAD.
  21. blind_elk
    It is axle tramp - caused by the shock absorber unable to control the rear suspension.
  22. blind_elk
    I'm pretty sure the ABS warning light is ABS. That symbol is the handbrake light, but is also a "low brake fluid" warning light.Check the fluid level in the reservoir located RH boot for the AWD problem.
  23. blind_elk
    I also keep it off-boost until it's up to operating temp. Doesn't ping then.
  24. blind_elk
    CAS is the only potential problem. Simply scribe a mark across both parts so you can reset the CAS when you put it back together. Also, make sure the half-moon key is still in the end of the exh. camshaft to align the CAS with the cams correctly.
  25. blind_elk
    I think you need to adjust the air temperature compensation table (via laptop). Frankly, I don't worry about it running lean "off-boost" - only when I get it into the upper load bands.
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