blind_elk

Yes, but what if someone stuck an auto radiator in and ran the P/S fluid through it to try and keep it cool?

The indicators should almost fall out once that top screw is removed. Try pulling it forwards a bit, or perhaps sideways (can't remember, but as I said, it should almost fall out).

If you didn't watch, then you missed our very own Justine showing off her 200SX. (The show might be being repeated Sunday midnight)

That's why it's called Anti-lock Brake System

Pumps have been known to rot out the impeller blades because idiot (previous / Japanese) owners don't use proper coolant. Pump is around $100. Job takes a (leisurely) couple of hours. You need to remove the radiator, so while it is out, get it thoroughly cleaned.

And when was the last time the injectors were cleaned? I strongly suspect it's somehow running rich - and rich mixtures don't make power, and might cause flooding on accelleration.

Have you had the radiator stripped and the cores properly cleaned?

Maybe only $7G - Stagea engine (mine is a GTS4), new flywheel / clutch, and aftermarket ECU. And other ancilliary crap that goes with it.

Doubt you'll do a RB26DETT for $5G; you'd be lucky to pick up just the engine for that. I did a RB25DET into R32, cost me the best part of $8G, and that's with me doing the labour

They don't use a local in Oz, just ram the needle in, hoping to get it popping out through your shoulder

For the 99 zillionth time, the O2 sensor has no effect on accelleration, or lack of it; it only works on cruise! Now, what engine management are you running. I notice you are running GT-R injectors and a huge fuel pump, but I can't see anything about an aftermarket ECU. What spark gap?

Well, the plan would be to book the South Melbourne centre on a Sunday morning. I have arranged for a representative of RCBS to come along to our next monthly meeting (August 15). She will be explaining the pros of blood donation (there are no cons!). I urge all SAUers to support this worthwhile community activity. 1 Hour every 3 months - is that so much to ask?

Is the steering wheel "off-centre"?

(not sure what Joe was smoking when he put up his response - or am I missing something?) It seems you have a R32. If so, it is likely the end that fits into the back of the speedo has sheared. Has the odometer also stopped working?

OK, I'm bringing this back up to view. I am prepared to organise for a nice young lady to come out from Red Cross Blood Bank to talk to us at the next monthly meeting. But, frankly, I'm extremely disappointed at the results of my previous efforts; only myself and the president of NDSOC seem to have any interest, and only Roy has expressed any interest here. This thread hasn't been encouraging, so I'm really reluctant to waste mine and a whole bunch of other people's time if no-one is likely to, frankly, "give a rat's".

Aerial up / down is usually a function of the radio itself. How high it extends wil be the way the aerial unit is designed.

I don't think I have ever seen a car where the low-beam filament stays activated while the hi-beams are active (HIDs may be different, but that could be for technical rather than legal reasons). I have never had my 32 fail a RWC because of the way the headlights work (which is "hi-beam on, lo-beam off").

There was an article in a recent Zoom or HPI showing how to bleed the AWD hydraulics. It basically involves a switch hidden in the driver's side kick panel, and the bleed valve on the gearbox. Email Express Publications for details of the edition.

Count me in

Or you could simply fit 21 Watt globes!

Try simply replacing the blown fuses. I would also be checking the wiring to the car's plug to make sure it doesn't have something like a power (eg tail lights) connected where earth should be.

Have you tried contacting Express Publications? They may have some back copies available. Otherwise, I could lend you mine and you could get it scanned.

They are both connected to the ECU. The tacho is simply a meter. Meters have errors. Different meters have different errors. The rpm shown on the display of my Wolf is different to (less then) the actual tacho. And the Wolf reading is more likely to be correct, as it doesn't need to convert to an analogue signal and drive a mechanical indicator.

You need to use a "changeover" relay. Give me a bit of time and I'll think how too best work it, but I'm thinking it will simply switch where the current horn wire directs itself when you press the button.

Or you can purchase my GTSt pistons (forged ACL, 1mm O/S)