blind_elk

Dick Smith (at least used to) sell a digital gauge. They were about $25 or so, and are fairly accurate. It really doesn't matter how accurate the gauge is, as long as you use it consistently.

The wear pattern is more reminiscent of a toe-out problem than a camber problem. The squeak is totally unrelated to the tyre wear. I agree, they did a pretty crappy job on the bush - it really needs to be disassembled and re-greased. It looks like a rose-jointed setup - could have worn a bit to produce the slackness you describe. GT-R rims are about a +20 offset, IIRC, so the rim is sitting out 20 mm further than a comparable GTSt rim. That will load the bearings abnormally and may also contribute to the tyre wear. And may be putting extra pressure on the camber joint.

It shouldn't matter which way it is mounted - its simply a diaphragm with variable pressure applied to one side. Free revving at 6k is unlikely to produce any boost, so the fuel pressure won't rise too far. And a constant free-revving 6k will still likely have a fair bit of vacuum happening in the plenum. So, again, the fuel pressure won't rise too far. Really stupid question - you did connect manifold vacuum to the new FPR?

The one the factory fitted (after spending many millions of dollars what works best).

Widest rim recommended for a 225/45x17 is 8.5". For a 9", 235/45 is the narrowest tyre recommended.

There's "technically" no such engine. They are hybrids, achieved by bolting the DE(T) head from (usually) a RB25 onto a RB30 block.

If it's basically fine under hard driving, then I doubt it's a problem with the air flow. Maybe the thermostat on the electric fan is set too high. Are you positive the fan is actually turning on at the set temperature? Is the fan spinning in the correct direction? It needs to force air from outside into the engine bay. If it's forcing air from the engine bay, then it's fighting a losing battle; already hot air won't remove too much heat from the radiator.

You talking "scrub radius"?Frankly, wheels that aren't designed to fit your application are bloody expensive, regardless of how much you didn't pay for them. Buy wheels designed for the purpose and you can't go wrong.

Nissan Datsun Nationals will be hosted in 2007 by NDSOC. The event will be taking place this time at Phillip Island over the Easter weekend. Further details will be posted on the NDSOC website (www.ndsoc.com.au) as they become available.

If you only want to take the head off, the simply remove one of the cam wheels (exhaust is easier). If the crank bolt is NOT 27mm, then it's the wrong bolt! It's been 27mm since 1968! If you're using the engine-crank method, then you don't want the gearbox in any gear, unless you want the car to launch through the back wall of the shed.

Any IT people out there with Oracle development skills (Forms, Reports, PL/SQL, etc), please PM.

Leave the fronts alone; bit of -ve camber is good. The rears have some camber adjustment available, but you probably need a camber kit (available from Whiteline). And 3" drop is probably too much in the first place.

YOU need a car club membership, and a helmet. Your baby needs a fire extinguisher and an auxilliary bonnet restraint setup. Contact CAMS (www.cams.com.au) in Brisbane - they have a brochure they can send you about getting started in motorsport.

Spark plugs are probably having a nice spa right now. Take it back to the di(khead panel beater and get him to fix it. (then try a bit of panel re-arrangement on his stupid skull!). Oh, and don't let him near your car next time.

Mine is just a strip of 1" aluminium that uses the front seatbolts to hold it in place. I've had to mount it on the passenger side because the adjuster bar for the Bride rail interferes.

Who fixed it? Take it back and tell them it's not right.

I've got a (probably factory) bar. The F/G lip extension is broken, but repairable (already been done once!) You're welcome to come and pick it up.

Start looking inside the gearbox. I had a similar problem in my old 240Z - turned out the nut that holds the 5th gear cluster in place was undoing itself. I'd suggest getting it fixed sooner rather than later, because my Z box eventually ran out of 5th totally (despite no apparent damage).

Just got off the phone with "Nurse Debbie" - the first available booking for a group is 9:30am Sunday 24th September. At their Southbank centre. I've basically booked for 8 of us.

Is this a new application, or a renewal of an existing licence? If new, then you should have a tearoff strip from the bottom to retain as proof until you get your real licence (well at least they used to). If you are at all worried, call the state office of CAMS during the week before the event - if they have received your application, they can fax you a statement that you will be able to use as your licence on Sept/01

There will be a tutorial somewhere, otherwise any number of previous threads on how to recall the error codes from the ECU. Note however that any errors are retained for 50 "start cycles", so an error showing up is not necessarily related to your immediate problem. To your immediate problem - how often does it do this "fast idle" cycle thing? Frankly, still sounds like a problem with the AAC valve - it needs to be stripped right down and thoroughly de-carboned.

OK, I'll aim for Sunday 10 Sept. Will let you all know what happens.

Well, the pressure is almost double the standard pressure. So when the injector opens, nearly twice as much fuel is going to be injected. I'm surprised that running that rich it runs at all. If they had to bump fuel pressure that much to correct the A/Fs, I'd be suspicious of the meter.

Won't help - the hydaulics will simply pick up the slack again. And you risk popping the pin out of the slave cylinder You need to adjust the connection onto the pedal - it's current state of adjustment is probably not releasing the hydraulic pressure fully. There should just be some free "slop" of the rod when the pedal is up.

WAY too much, particularly when combined with bigger injectors and a stock ECU. Spec is around 37.