blind_elk

So, the starter motor turns the engine, but the engine doesn't want to fire? Have I got it right? Nissans are VERY sensitive to voltages. A battery may start the car, but then the alternator expends so much of its output re-charging the battery that the ECU thinks there is a problem and the car runs like crap. The other thing is that the ECU needs a minimum voltage (somewhere around 7V) to be "alive". If the starter motor drains so much voltage that the voltage available to the ECU is less than this critical value, then the engine might spin for ever, but the ECU isn't alive to fire everything off. If you ever have troubles with starting and batteries, the usual fix is a new battery.

If you are careful, a drill can remove the head from the screw, which then allows you to remove the FPR. It will leave enough thread protruding that you can use pliers or vice grips to remove the threaded portion.

S2 coils have the ignitor built into the coil, while S1 coils require an ignitor module. The S2 coils will not work if connected through an ignitor module. Get the S1 coils.

Bore to 8mm O/S, which is a dangerous proposition. Then ream out the combustion chamber so the piston doesn't smash into the head.I have a set of pistons if you're interested - PM me for details

Are the wheels locating on the hub centres properly (a good tyre place should know that requirement)?

60 psi is a bit too much - standard is around 37 psi, rising to perhaps 50 on full boost. So, the engine will be running richer than normal, and I've heard recently that too rich can also cause knock. Try backing off the fuel pressure a bit.

No-one seems to be concerned about the little earth tremor last night, around 10:40

No, they SEIZE. (Well, I guess when they seize, they cease.)But the Japs are famous for not using inhibitor in their cars, and the blades on the pump impeller corrode away - that's the more usual problem.

No. It is a matter that ALL forum members need to be mindful of. And I said it because a moderator didn't / couldn't / wouldn't.

You haven't stated if the engine has been modded in any way. Info like that is often useful in diasgnosing these sorts of problems. Idle "hunting" is likely the AAC valve - it's the little cylinder attached to the back of the plenum chamber. The flat-spot is totally unrelated to the AAC valve. It is likely the ECU is detecting "knock", which may be caused by a dying fuel pump. Get the car onto a dyno, with an AFR meter and a fuel pressure gauge.

They are all RB25DETs - so same performance (engine-wise). The differences will come in the weight penalty a AWD has, but that will be offset by the AWD drive and handling.

I have a set of 17x7.5s with 50% B/S GIIIs on them. But they are a +40 offset, so they'll sit too far in. Up to you. No payment required.

Which GTS4 (R32 or R33)? R32 GTS4 only came with a RB20DET. Stagea RB25DET is the only engine that bolts straight in (in RB25s at least - obviously RB26 is an option). As to performance, I took my low-mod R32 GTS4 from 115 awkW up to 180 awkW (included aftermarket ECU). You be the judge if it's worthwhile.

The "normal" RB25DET has a different sump pattern, so you can't swap your 4WD sump onto the RB25DET. The Stagea has a AWD RB25DET, but the manuals are like chooks teeth (the vast majority are autos too). You might have to settle for a GT-R gearbox, unless you can find a manual one from the R32 GTS4. Clearly, if you get a half-cut, then you get the good brakes as well.

You realise that article is copyright? It's not yours to simply distribute as you please.

The 260Z carbies are WOFTAM. Have you talked to Lindsay at Z Shop in Glen Iris?

Replace the fuel filter. A clogged fuel filter will allow the engine to rev its rings off in neutral, but as soon as you put some load on it, it can't get enough fuel.

BUGGA. Probably cheapest fix is to get a new engine from a wrecker - try John at J&S Imports in Seaford, 97750597. Talk to Daniel - 98082590 - (he's in Burwood) about fitting the new engine. Tell them Greg sent you (and they'll happily double the price LOL)

Had a similar thing with my old RB20 - I thought it was a sticky lifter, but after I sold it, the buyer advised me that he had pulled it down and there was evidence of piston-slap. Another possibility, since the noise seems more pronounced on the underside, is a dying / shot big-end bearing.

If you plan to simply fix and sell, then get a replacement from the wreckers and install it. Otherwise, rebuild the dead one - and ask to talk to previous customers of the engine builder if you have any concerns.

Randy, it's what the workshop manuals say, so it can't be all that dangerous. (It's only a problem under load, when a lean mixture can cause detonation). The rail is held in by 3 bolts. And it's not really necessary to separate the plenum - if you remove enough hoses and stuff, the rail will come out forwards (over the radiator).

Any suspension stuff, simply get GT-R stuff. I'm running Bilsteins and Kings lowered springs, with Whiteline GT-R HD rear swaybar. The best improvement of all - RB25DET. Torque to burn. Next best thing to a GT-R.

My thoughts exactly. Get a spanner (27mm socket) onto the crank pulley bolt and see if you can turn the engine at all.

YEAR: 1983 (12/82 build) MODEL: R30 BODY TYPE: Hatchback COLOUR: Silver Just fitted the L20ET, running a RB20 BB centre, and controlled by a Wolf 3D.

TPS is out of adjustment, and is not sending the 'throttle closed' signal to the ECU. Can't remember if it's pins 1 & 2 or 2& 3 need 0 ohms at "throttle closed".