blind_elk

Try Quadrant Suspensions in Berwick (Bilstein agents), or Top Performance (somewhere near Vermont?, Koni agents).

Calculation is correct. Maybe misread the vernier? Otherwise you have one lumpy cam there.

I would argue it was in a state of suspension within the last 3 years, so the answer has to be YES. But ask the insurance company.

Or "Speedometers". There's one in Mulgrave, IIRC. They stick a "black box" converter on the cable, costs around $175.

How about just posting your problem in ONE PLACE!

Error codes in the ECU are persistent for something like 50 start cycles. Before you do anything, reset the ECU to clear any residual errors.

Changing the diff should not affect the speedo, UNLESS the ratio is different.

Sounds like the half-moon key has broken on the camshaft side, and there is significant wear in the teeth that are keeping it all aligned.

TTs are after-market gadgets. If Nissan had wanted you to use one, they would have installed them as standard items. TTs are generally for idiots who can't control their right foot during the last km of any trip, and are then too impatient to wait with the car for a minute while the turbo cools down a bit.

Do the pistons actually move when you press on the pedal? You may have 1 or more siezed pistons that will reduce your braking efficiency.

With a timing light. Moving the CAS affects the ignition timing. Timing at idle should be 15 BTDC.

Check out the specs at aclperformance.com.au I want $1000 (delivered) for them (that's what they cost me). Didn't use them because I realised later that they possibly weren't what I needed.

Don't know where you will get a manual. But I have a set of ACL forged 1mm O/S pistons, if you're interested. And you can probably get matching ACL bearings from places like Repco.

If you disconnect the TPS, then the ECU doesn't hacve a "throttle closed" signal, and idles up to match the reading it is getting from the AFM. If you leave the AAC valve connected, then the ECU is going to continually adjust the AAC to maintain idle stability. So, it makes sense to disconnect the AAC valve before you make any adjustments to it.

Well, RB20s handle 10 - 12 psi fairly comfortably at the same C/R. As I said, the main drawback could be the chamber design (this is the advice that has deterred me from the same course; and I've got a perfectly good L20ET sitting in the garage, and a Wolf 3D that used to run it also doing nothing. They get installed next week). Any sort of aftermarket ECU has to have a chance of letting you run higher boost levels.

It's only 8.5 now. That's plenty low enough for a turbo. (same as a RB20DET). The problem you may encounter is that the whole combustion chamber was never designed to be running in a forced induction environment. So it may be difficult to get the tune right. If you really must decompress it, try a 260 or 280 head, because they have bigger combustion chambers. They probably have better port designs as well.

According to the NGK website, they should be torqued to around 20 lb/ft (which isn't actually all that much). And they should be installed into a COLD engine (well, torqued down when the engine is cold).

I think the first thing to be noted is that Victoria does not require annual inspections for rego renewal. So, as such, there is no 'pink slip' system in place. Victoria does have a RWC (roadworthy certificate) system in place that is only relevant when selling a car. That might be possible to use in this case. Failing that, you only have to go as far as Albury to obtain a 'pink slip'. It would be better to consult the (NSW) RTA to find out what needs to be done in your case.

You might have a working LSD, but you will also have reduced steering response and braking grip!I'm pretty sure that you only ever use the space saver on the rear. If you get the correct size tyres fitted to the new rims, then you should have the correct rolling diameter to not put any stress on the diff.

R33 RB25DET ex cam is the same as the RB20DET, except it is retarded 3 degrees. So it's eqivalent to fitting an adjustable cam wheel and setting 3 deg advance in a RB25. The R34 RB25DET is a shorter duration (232) and bigger lift (8.70).

Those of you who are first-timers, can we meet at the Blood Bank about 9:15. There is an enrolment form that needs to be filled out beforehand (not all that complicated, just need to sign over your first born!)

Yeh, just talking with Garry Rogers Nissan. New genuine cap is about $34. The other problem could be that the lines to or from the cannister are blocked. I'll check those first, then probably get the right cap. They don't make a ULP-style neck and cap for this model.

If the thermostat is jammed slightly open, that will cause the slow heatup.

I have some ACL 40thou forged pistons if you're interested.

You can't just fit a diff from any old model. The ratios MUST match front and rear. If your crown wheel and pinion are still OK, then you might find a new centre to mount them to. Failing that, you could slip me a few $$ for the front diff that came out of mine when I changed to Stagea diffs both ends.