blind_elk

A wheel alignment generally is not a cure for wheel vibration. If you had new wheel / tyre combo fitted, are the wheels "hub-centric" (they need to be)? The other possibilities are things like worn steering bushes, worn steering rack, loose wheel bearings. The mob that sold you the wheels should be able to diagnose and fix the vibration.

The clutch activation is hydraulic, and is basically self-adjusting. If the clutch is grabbing too soon, it's probable the clutch plate is wearing thin and is near the end of its life. You may be able to get something by adjusting the pushrod into the master cylinder, but that adjustment is generally to set the free-height of the pedal.

If you replace the rotors, the new ones will end up looking the same.

They are a "common earth" connection. All the earth wires from the ECU and other bits of loom go into there, and 1 wire comes out and connects to the chassis.

You can't (and don't need to) clean the IAC (Cold Start Air) valve. It is not operated by a servo-motor, as the AAC (Auxilliary Air Control) valve is. It is a simple bi-metallic strip, heated by electric current - as it warms up, it causes a plate to cover the air bleed hole. If it has any sort of problem, it may be that it is not fully uncovering the hole when it cools.

How about just drive the car. A normal application of the brakes will ordinarily remove surface rust (unless the rotors have been soaking in water for months). I find often my rotors develop a light rust layer, particulary after the car gets a bath, or if it has rained.

Can you "free-rev" the engine OK? And it's only a problem under load ie driving? Replace the fuel filter.

I'm guessing you're actually referring to the temperature gauge. The sender is the single-pin sensor located in the front of the engine - just follow the top radiator hose towards the engine, and you will stumble across 2 sensors (the other has 2 pins / wires). Simple check is to switch the ignition to "ON", then ground the wire going to the sensor (connect the sensor wire to a metal part of the engine, an unfolded paper clip is useful for ensuring the terminal can connect to "earth") - if the gauge goes "full scale", then the gauge is working, and the sensor is faulty.

How on earth do you know this?

"high revs" and "cold" don't really go well together. The synchros are on the way out, and the more you combine "high revs" and "cold", the faster they will degenerate.

A "no-success" story here for a thermo fan. I strongly recommend against it.As for your overheating problems, are you sure the water pump is in top-notch condition. They are becoming famous for having the impeller fins corrode away (because the Japs won't use inhibitor when they fill the radiator with acid rain).

They use CO2 in fire extinguishers - I wonder why? The problem, fr0st, is that the presence of CO2 in the charge is severely altering the ratio of available O2 to fuel, resulting in an over-rich A/F ratio.

Have you had the PFC programmed / tuned for "cold start"? Maybe it needs a bit more fuel or timing when it's cold. BTW, I don't see anything in your initial post that mentions you have a PFC - such information would be most useful.

That's why they use it in fire extinguishers!And it's why people die in CO2 rich environments.

But GTS4 engines? I'm pretty certain you can't swap GTS4 and GTSt engines over, because the sump pans are different - they aren't interchangeable.Any additional parts - what about an exhaust? I don't believe there is any difference in the basic physical size of the 2 engines (head and block). But the GTS4 engine uses an "up-and-over" style inlet manifold, the GT-R uses that "low-along-the-side" style. The GTS4 also doesn't run the clutch booster - that's why I'm suggesting the possibility of interference. But, hey, your money, your time, your disappointment when you realize how under-powered the RB20DET really is in comparison with even a stock RB26DETT. Ooh, don't forget to swap the GT-R front diff into the RB20.

The IC plumbing back to the throttle body will be a minor hindrance. Other than that, it should be a straight "rip out RB26, shove in RB20". To replace the loom, remove the LH guard (fender). Thought - will you have clearance for the RB20 plenum adjacent to the GT-R clutch master / booster?

Pressure plate bolts are something like a 8x1.25 (pretty standard metric bolt). The flywheel bolts are high-tensile, 12mm I think. Just go and see Nissan, get a set of bolts for a RB30 - they are about $2 each, from memory.

Some friendly advice from someone who has been driving a lot longer than you've even been alive - just learn to drive the thing first. Please, the last thing anyone here needs to hear about is some hyped-up youngster, fresh onto his Ps, wrapping himself around a tree because the car he was driving was beyond his ability. Patience, young grasshopper.

I've put a RB25DET (Stagea) into a GTS4. A number of people have fitted RB26s into GTS4s. No reason it won't go the other way (RB20 -> GT-R). But, realistically, for the cost involved in sourcing, purchasing and fitting all the GTS4 stuff, you could probably buy a cheap GM or Ford to keep you mobile while the GT-R is undergoing it's transformation.

It won't make boost (or at best it will make very little boost) while the wastegate is open. Are you sure the gate is operating properly?

I've still got my original, but it's for a manual. Will that make any difference in terms of getting the error? Have you reset the ECU to clear any residual errors (they are persistant for something like 50 "start" cycles).

Can't help you with the bolt pattern question. What I do know is that I have successfully fitted a GTS4 diff in a Stagea RB25DET front diff housing. And I believe there are several people around who have fitted GTS4 diffs to GT-Rs.

The manual has answered your question. (when I went to school, "naming" something and "saying what it is" were synonymous).It is a warning light. It means something is wrong. It even recommends what you should do - see your local Nissan dealer. It comes about when the temperature of the exhaust gasses passing through the catalytic converter (nothing at all to do with O2 limits and closed loop operation!) reaches a certain limit (measured by a thermocouple in the converter's body). It is possible that the engine is beginning to run too lean (maybe due to dying fuel pump), or maybe the cat is collapsing and blocking the exhaust. Go see a Nissan dealer and get it sussed out.

What spring rates are you running? A really heavy spring will "break" a shock if they are not matched too well. KYBs are an OK shock, not overly expensive, IIRC. You probably need a pair of 341287 KYB Excel-G shocks. Why not just get the kit that SK has arranged. This gear would be the best bang-for-buck around. I'm running a similar set, and the handling is exceptional. The ride is firm, but not teeth-loosening.

If the pedal box is broken, the clutch pedal itself should be sitting closer to the floor when in "clutch out" mode. I've actually had mine break against the standard clutch. Had a HD clutch for a while now, and it's still OK. Removing the pedal box, there is a bolt up the top, which I found much easier to remove after I removed the instrument cluster.