blind_elk

It should be marked on the base of the globe somewhere as to what model it is.

The main point here is: How do you continually get yourself into situations where you have to brake so hard that you lock the brakes? Change your driving style. Read the traffic ahead. Keep an eye out for idiots who might not be so savvy in the driving ability department. ABS is for incompetents. In the 6 years I have had a car with ABS (R32 GTS4), I've activated the system maybe twice (once on the race track). That said, I'm surprised that in the 5 or so years this forum has been around, that no-one has ever wondered if their car has ABS, and asked this very question. Try looking at the lights on the instrument panel when you start the car - if you have ABS, then you will have a warning light show up at IGN-ON.

AFAIK, all the R30s in Oz are the 2.4l 6 cylinder EFI. There was a 4 cylinder carburettor version (L20B, I think) and a L20ET (2 litre 6 cyl EFI turbo) version, but none was officially sold in Australia.

Had a horrible feeling you'd stuck engine oil in there. Diffs need something a lot heavier, like 80W90. Actually, just re-reading your original post, I now recall a similar problem with my GTS4. Turned out to be a problem with the TPS not plugged in properly.

What's grade of oil you used? (like engine oil might be 5W30, or 10W50)

There's the reason for your flatspot - the engine probably can't ingest air at 19 psi. Back the boost off a bit - I reckon 1 bar is more than enough.

L = Low, H = High. The oil on the dipstick needs to be between those 2, ie in the hatched area. The closer to H the better. But it doesn't really matter if it's slightly above H.

With such a smal gap, you are probably not burning the fuel properly. Unburnt fuel is then being dissolved in the oil on the cylinder walls and taken down into the sump. Open the gap. (usinga really small gap is only masking the real problem)

If everyone is OK with this, then please email at the address set up by James (post #8*. Thanks.

First off, you need to wipe the dipstick before you actually read the oil level, ie, pull it out, wipe the oil off, replace it, and pull it out and read. The oil higher up the dipstick is probably from splash, that's why you need to wipe first. Also, before you measure the level, make sure all the oil has drained back to the sump - leave the engine off for a few minutes to ensure all the oil drains back.

But then the fuel pressure is fixed at the atmospheric setting of the stock FPR. It won't matter how much boost or vacuum you have, the rail pressure will be constant.

I had mine re-painted a few years ago at Holloway Panels in Bayswater - $250 from memory.

Maltech in Geelong can provide you with ADR-approved braided brake lines - around $350 a set (all 4 corners). Any decent parts shop (Repco, Autobarn, etc) should, at worst, be able to get EBC linings.

Dog registrations (and cats as well) were around before microchipping became available. It's now entrenched in the council fee structure. It's to cover the costs of catching and boarding animals that their owners allow to roam at will. And not every animal is chipped (maybe they could offer a discount for chipped animals - why don't you talk tyo them about that option). Every council is the same. Don't be such a tight ass. Just the same as if you own a car you must register it, if you want a pet you must register it. (PS an "entire" animal is one capable of reproduction)

I thought the same sound in my old RB20 was a sticky lifter. Then someone bought the engine and stripped it down; turned out the cylinder was suffering "piston slap".

First, make it stop - Z31 4-stud vented rotors. You'll need an adaptor to mount the appropriate calipers. Z31 have 100mm mounting spacing, which is the same as the 4-spots from R32. Then make it handle - decent shocks, HD springs, swaybars. THEN make it go. Zoom did a RB20DET conversion many moons ago. You could try a L20ET, but they are probably like rocking horse poo, and even a L28ET is probably hard to find. What about the VQ20ET (?) - 2 litre V6 turbo. Or a VH41 - might be a bit heavy, but torque to burn. Or stroked L28 and 3 Webers.

It plugs into the other green plug, on the radiator!!!! That leads down to the thermo switch in the bottom tank that tells the A/C thermo fan (the one out front of the radiator) to switch on when the coolant starts to get a buit too hot.

DECIBELS.The figures are dependant upon the measuring process. The AS test is something like 75% redline, at 45 deg and 1 metre from tailpipe. The trackside is usually something like "@ 30 metres". dB is basically a measure of pressure, and pressure diminishes with distance. 80dB @ 30 metres could well be in excess of 91 dB AS test.

It's really not a matter of volts, it's a matter of resistance. The (other) TPS (the throttle position SWITCH) needs to have 0 ohms between 2 pins (2 & 3, I think) - this tells the ECU that the throttle is closed, and the ECU needs to run with the idle maps.You can initially test this by manually revving the engine, then allow the throttle to snap shut. This should cause the ECU to go into "fuel cut on overrun" (the injectors shut down); so you should hear it go quiet in the injector department for a short period.

Check the adjustment of the TPS

I've got a set of 1mm O/S ACL forged pistons - $1000 delivered to your dor.

Some timing lights seem to double the reading by firing the strobe too early. Have no idea why or how it could happen. If this is the case, the car should feel a bit sluggish because of the late timing you have set (you effectively have timing at 10 rather than 15). As a check, insert a spark lead between #1 coilpack and #1 spark plug and check the timing the "old-fashioned" way.

Accutire - available on-line at http://www.4x4store.com.au/Accutire-Digita...e-pr-83418.html

Traction Tyres (again) or Trackside Tyres in Bayswater (Craig)

I imagine it's designed to keep the inlet runners warm, thereby improving and maintaining the vapourisation of the fuel.