blind_elk

There is only 1 PCV valve - located in the front of the plenum. The 2 fittings you are referring to are simply pieces of pipe connected by the rubber hose to join each rocker cover to the PCV valve. The other end (passenger side) is an open feed back to the inlet side of the turbo. The PCV valve is not a pressure release valve. It is a one-way valve, that opens under the vacuum in the plenum chamber, most particularly when throttle is closed. It is designed to cause the engine to ingest, and burn, excess oil vapour, rather than vent the vapour to atmosphere.

I've used a RB25 CAS in a RB20, so it should also work in a 26.

Did someone steal the bulbs that are in there already?

I have the same manual you have. I know about this because I just recently wired in a Wolf 3D, and had to work out which bits of loom were re-usable.

It's more likely the ignitor module. They are prone to breaking down with heat. You will usually find that they work fine after a cool-down period.

Ok, other 3 pins are (9-pin plug): Black/Green - Tacho White - BCCD valve (in throttle body) Yellow/White - temp gauge Maybe the later models didn't use the BCCD valve.

According to the workshop manual, difficulty cold starting can result from: 1 Faulty engine temperature sender - disconnect and see if there is any difference. Check sensor resistance value - 2.5k when engine cold 2 Idle speed control faulty - check AAC valve operation / cleanliness 3 Check if the ECU is getting a "start" signal (probably difficult to check without CONSULT) 4 Cranking speed too low (unlikely with a new battery)

Stupid thought - you haven't lined the crank up at 30 BTDC have you? ie you've lined up the first (right-most) mark on the pulley with the mark on the block. it needs to be the left-most mark on the pulley.

Ok, point of clarification. The round plug uses all 9 pins, it's just that the ECU part only uses 6; that's why only 6 are shown in the diagram. 1 of the extras is definitely for tacho, don't recall immediately the other 2 (1 is water temp gauge, 1 to go). You may have to do some probing with a multi-meter to determine which wire goes where. Sorry can't be of more asssitance right now. I'll have alook at mine tonight when I get home. Might be able to toss some more light on the problem.

There are any number of previous threads that describe how to test and evaluate these sorts of problems. My initial guess is a dead voltage regulator.

Penrite is usually a pretty good quality oil. I would think that a 60 grade oil is OK seeing as it's coming up to summer. My opinion is that the rattles are not related to the oil change. In fact, I am suspecting that the damage was already done. Hopefully it's only a bit of bearing wear, but it could also be piston slap. Either way, it would be very worthwhile getting the car to a good mechanic who can do a better diagnosis by actually hearing it, than we can by reading about it.

And don't use the rear vision mirror either

What would happen if you swapped the cam wheels, ie ex on in and in on ex - do the dots still line up correctly? Never tried it myself, always make sure I keep the wheels separate. As a worst-case, remove the rocker covers and check that the lobes for #1 on both cams are pointing away from the piston with #1 @ TDC. The lobes for #6 should be "on the rock" ie on TDC overlap.

Basically all they do is check that the engine number on the block matches the engine number on the paperwork. They seem to have NFI about what engines are permissable in what cars.

The only thing in common between the sump and the gearbox is that they both bolt onto the engine block. You don't need to modify one just because you replaced the other.

Have you replaced the fuel filter? Fuel pump? How old is the battery? As has been said numerous times before, Skylines are VERY sensitive to voltages; if you have a sus battery, it's totally unpredictable how the ECU will handle that.

The only TT I use is inside my head - the drive determines how long I either slow down before I get there, or how long I let the engine idle before I turn off the engine. On a highway cruise, you generally aren't on boost, so a TT is wasting petrol. Around suburban streets, you shouldn't be on boost so much that you need the TT. Just drive sensibly (off-boost) for the last km before your destination, and you'll be fine. When DJR ran the Sierras in Group A, they would simply do a "slow" lap of the track before pulling into the garage and just turn off the engine.

The word is THAN, FFS - lower THAN stock. Then you need sway bars way too heavy If you can't afford these, you can't afford decent suspension either. You won't find much better for much less.

Yes, left over from rebuild - standard head gasket and rocker cover gaskets. $120 for the lot (plus postage if required).

That's pretty obvious.The oil pressure is a measure of the resistance of the oil to flow through the galleries of the engine. It is independent of oil volume - otherwise, the oil pressure would vary as the oil level varies between the lo and hi marks on the dipstick. Oil pressure is related to the viscosity of the oil, which is basically relative to temperature - cold oil runs higher pressure than hot oil.

The sump flange is really the only difference, and all it does is prevent you bolting a AWD sump onto a RWD block. All the internals are essentially the same. I had to re-build mine after it shat a ring - I simply got new pistons, bearings, gaskets for a RB25DET. There was no need to specify that it was the AWD engine. Sticking a Stagea AWD RB25DET into any non-GTR AWD Skyline is the best bang for your buck that money can buy. I went from a measly 115 awkW (RB20DET) to 180 awkW. The conversion cost me around $7k, but that included a new clutch and flywheel assembly (because the engine was from an auto, and I have a manual) and aftermarket ECU (and cost was no object). I reckon you should be able to get a half cut for around $3k, and maybe $2k to swap everything over, unless you are mechanically minded enough to do it yourself.

Remove the backing plate behind the rotor, and fit some cool air ducting. Fit braided brake lines if you haven't already.

You've probably worn through the insulation on the little wire inside the wheel boss, and it's earthing out at various points in the turning of the wheel.

Might explain the couple of cop cars racing up Spencer St about an hour ago. Just went upstairs to the canteen - has a view from Nth Melbourne station around to Telstra Dome - couldn't see anything out of the ordinary.

I used to make the number up on A4 (in Word), then enlarge it on the photocopier to A3. 3M "Invisible" tape sticks it cleanly to the doors. Only potential problem is if it rains - which, unfortunately, isn't such a major threat ATM. Now I have a set of proper numbers on a magnetic square. Still use 3M to stick down the leading edges. As for battery triangle, blue electrical tape works wonders and doesn't stick so hard that you can't pull it off cleanly.