blind_elk

R32s run a full mechanical (cable) speedo drive system, R33s have an electronic speedo.

Pretty certain when I did this job, I left the exhaust manifold on, but removed the inlet manifold simply to get that little sh!t of a bolt behind the inlet cam wheel.

Can someone provide instructions on how to attach pics as thumbnails. The last time I attached a pic, it took ages and was like a full-screen version in the post. Tx

IAC gives a constant high idle speed, the AAC valve gives a "hunting" idle speed. tazr32 has "hunting", so it's more likely a problem of a dirty AAC valve. (On a 32, the IAC valve is the one underneath the throttle body. On a 33, it is under the inlet plenum. The AAC valve hangs off the back of the inlet plenum on both models)

The sensor is a thermo switch. So the fan only comes on when the engine starts to get a bit too warm. To test the fan, I think you can simply disconnect the plug from that sensor (the plug is near the top driver's side of the radiator), then bridge the 2 terminals (engine running, of course).

Its the Auxilliary Air Control valve (AAC) that you want - hangs off the back of the plenum.It's been the cause of thousands of threads.

Well, once I figure out how to put up thumbnails rather than ordinary pics (the damn things are around 1Mb per pic) ... Or you'll just have to come to the next monthly meeting and I can do my little slide show.

check out www.kangan.edu.au

Ok people. Nurse Debbie has booked 10 places for us for 10am on Sunday 17 December at the Southbank donor centre. To confirm your attendance, please email me at [email protected] I would like to know by this Friday (Dec 1) in case we need to make any adjustments to the booking.

If the pistons are in good condition, there is no real reason to replace them. Unless... if the rings have damaged the bore, you will definitely need pistons, because you will require a re-bore. But you won't know that until you pull it all apart. You should be able to buy just the rings, but if you buy pistons, you will get a set of rings. While you have it all apart, it's wise to also replace, at least, the big-end bearings, and maybe the crank bearings.

But the stroke is controlled by the crank. The stroke is twice the offset of the big-end journal from the centre of the crank.If he uses a RB25 crank, he will have RB25 stroke. If he has RB25 stroke, then he has RB25 C/R.

What do you class as "tap" the brakes. If it was a warped disk, it would probably happen all the time, at all speeds. Why not just simply back right off the throttle; the car will simply slow under friction / rolling resistance / wind resistance. Then pick up the throttle when your speed is back to near 100. Or ar you talking ABOVE 100?

Spark plugs differ in more than just heat range. Certainly in NGK, they have different designations depending on things like thread diameter and length, hex head size, and electrode design. In NGK, there are 10 basic designs of plug and 6 electrode configurations in the IX Iridium range.

If it has the same bore and stroke as a "normal" RB25, then won't it have the same C/R?

The ECU I used is 22611-05L10. It has the same single plug connection as the L24E. (It does actually say L20 on the label as well.) And the L20ET came with a big electronic dizzy, which we replaced with a "conventional" one. So this may well be the wrong ECU for a true L20ET, but it ran the engine.

So? I don't think it says anywhere you have to be a SAU member.We are doing this because we are members of society, and society needs our assistance. The fact that we are members or associates of SAU is simply a means of contacting potential donors, and we in no way preclude people from joining us in this activity just because they may not share our interest in Skylines.

OK, then, we'll just brand these people as they really are - DI(KHEADS.As SKY031 said, no-one is forcing these people to drive like idiots - they are making that decision by themselves. Any half decent driver can avoid losing traction on a wet road. Most of the idiots who do lose traction on a wet road can only do on a wet road.

Actually, can also provide the L20ET AFM / airbox and a hand-built loom to suit the L20ET (loom probably would suit a L28 version as well - the ECU pinouts are almost identical to the L24E pinouts)

And she's one of the ugly ones

You don't need to have a needle - they can simply slash a wrist instead Seriously, your support is appreciated, sorry you can't cope with the needle. If you are serious about supporting the cause, how about a $ donation instead? Everyone that is ruled out for whatever reason - how about $s instead?

Have one at home (L20ET), because I run mine off a Wolf. I'll get back to you with a part#, or a price.

I agree with the majority of opinion here - on cruise, the turbos are simply "spinning in the breeze" - you should find that the engine is still under vacuum. If you disable the turbos, and you find yourself in a "sutuation" (eg misjudged how much time/distance you have to overtake a B-double), then you won't have the turbos to assist you in your time of need. Just leave the damn things alone.

I would expect 300Nm will spin you the opposite direction. I would suggest a socket and breaker bar as the safest way to do this. Failing that, long ring spanners. Get a piece of pipe to fit over the spanner / breaker bar to increase the leverage. LOTS of WD-40 (or similar).

Actually, the only stupid question is the one you don't ask

If you were running A/C, I'd be looking into the failure of the fan (out front of A/C radiator). Check the thermo switch, located in bottom radiator tank) is still functioning.