blind_elk

Can be done - even solid pipes have some degree of flex, to allow you to move the turbo back away from the manifold.

-ve camber on stock (front) suspension doesn't sound right. The rear camber is adjustable, but they haven't touched it.

so that as the compressor spools up, it spikes the wastegate, and before the engine has even seen the increased boost, the exhaust gas is dumped past the exhaust wheel. so that the engine never sees the "wastegated" boost. Unless you pick up the signal for the boost gauge off the back of the compressor, your turbo will always be producing more boost than the boost gauge is indicating.

Pull the fuse to the fuel pump while the engine is running (or in your case, while cranking the engine), and the bulk of the pressure will be released. The fuel cap can't hold the pressure you encountered.

Has this got the big dizzy, about 4" diameter (ie much bigger than the older L-series dizzies)? If so, it has a slotted disk inside that acts as a CAS. If the detector in that was cactus, then the ECU would not be getting the required signals to open injectors and fire sparks.

No, there isn't. But there is provision to put a fitting in the back of the plenum. (While you are there, why not re-locate the turbo wastegate line up there as well.) Or, you can 'T' into the FPR hose.

If memory serves me correctly, according to the ADRs, "driving lights" are hi-beam lights. As such, they can only be switched on via the dip-switch. They need to be mounted high (ie normal headlamp level) so they have a chance to throw the beam down the road, a-la rally cars, and interstate trucks. There is nothing in the ADRs relating to "fog lights". They are a matter for each state to deal with. There is no requirement for them to be any particular colour. It was only in the early days they were yellow because it was believed that yellow light penetrated fog better than other colours. Most fog lights are effective (in fog) by virtue of the design of the lens, which casts a low, wide beam. Added to the fact that they are mounted low to shine under the fog, not through it. If these "yuppie lamps" have any benefit, it is only as "daylight running lights". But it is still possible to "dazzle" on-coming motorists, even in daylight, if the lamps are not properly aligned. (dezz, how can you be sure your lights don't dazzle on-coming drivers - you aren't the on-coming driver)

My driveway! otherwise: Traction Tyres - Rowville could probably fit it for you.

On 4, have you ever heard an engine running without a muffler? Even a turbo engine, at idle, makes quite a noise. Now imagine multiplying that up to 8000 rpm. As in all things in car design, it's all a compromise.

Have you got compression? Checked valve clearances?

Actually, while I was waiting for bus at Glen Waverley, had a little hail storm (2-3 mm stuff), the a heavy one, about 1cm max. Then, within 2 minutes, SUNSHINE! Thank goodness for Global Warming!

Well, one of you sits in the back (of a 32!)

Thank goodness for Global Warming - imagine how cold it would be without it!

If the problems only started after the ECU was re-mapped, then put the original chip back, and see if it still has problems. If you don't then have problems, then Dr Drift owes you a proper tune.

If they are "driving lights", they are basically HIGH-BEAM lights, so rules governing hi-beam apply. But in general, "yuppie lights" are fog lights, and can only be used in foggy conditions. They are basically useless as "driving lights" because they are mounted so low - proper "driving lights" need to be mounted fairly high (basically headlamp level) so they can throw their light down the road.

I'm with Roy on this one. But you can keep the Carlton, so you'll be even further ahead. Then you need too plan better. And whatever you are heading for will still be there in the 30 seconds you lose by driving sensibly. Exactly!

The left-most mark is TDC. The right-most is 30 BTDC, and they are 5 deg increments.

Can you get to my place (Glen Waverley) - PM me for details

But he would have spark.

I think I can make it. But I'm not in a position to get up there Friday night. I'll try and make it by 9am.

C/R will INCREASE if you bore for, and fit, bigger pistons, because you are increasing the swept volume. But I doubt the increase will be significant (more than 0.1) for a 20 thou O/S. By fitting a thicker gasket, you are effectively enlarging the combustion chamber, so the C/R will drop.

Then again, it might have had something to do with a bad connection on the back of the alternator (ie bad battery voltage).

Sorry, but I don't think it's got anything to do with warped brakes - why woud it do it while the car is stationary? I seem to recall a similar problem with my 32, and it had something to do with a poorly connected TPS, IIRC.

Check fuses (under dash) and relays (in engine bay). Check that the 2 relays behind theECU are switching when IGN -> "ON". You should be able to hear the fuel pump priming at the initial IGN -> "ON".

Nothing wrong with that, perfectly acceptable.